TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Are you able to keep an eye on fuel trims?

 

It was a vacuum leak. There wasn't enough vacuum to pull on the diaphragm in the bypass actuator, so air wasn't able to bypass the blower (I think). When I check all my vacuum lines and sealed the leak my SC started running like normal again. Glad I checked before pulling the SC.

 

nice good to hear. I was thinking the bypass valve initially but did not think of the lines. glad to hear its working. Maybe one of them was loose. I know @12TRDTacoma has at least one tip on adding a clamp to one of them as its prone to leaking.

 

I usually recommend replacing the hose as a whole. To prevent leakage at the larger hose that Magnuson uses from the blower to the diaphragm.

 

So interesting thing. This weekend while checking for Boost gauge operation I placed the Mighty Vac on the bypass vacuum motor to see what its operating range is (also to make sure it was working and did not have a diaphragm leak).

14" Hg fully open.
~ 3"Hg starts to open

**Edit: This was checked while shutdown. Airflow across the bypass valve my shift the points, but still, its a baseline for reference.

 

Found the Toyota TRD SC Install book while looking for the ecm calibration charts again (I know, they are posted somewhere in these threads...) Anyway, some useful info that wasn't included in the Magnuson install manual (Toyota parts cross references...CARB sticker parts number...) Figured it might be useful for others to track parts anything else.

Also, the CARB Sticker is $10 from the dealership if you need it. Ordered mine today.

 

Hey guys question, do I need to gap these new ruthenium sparkplugs?

 

I did not gap mine

 

Thank you!
This is a bit nerve-wracking I've never done automotive maintenance before. Currently going on an hour and a half on getting the driver side off.

 

Don't worry you got this. Driver side is the harder side to do, passenger side should be much easier since you will have heaps more room.

 

Thank you again. I figured I would go with the hard first.

The video I watched said to torque the plugs to 168 inch pounds, is that correct/recommend?

 

No sir.

Dude just tighten them and you're good to go.

 

I cannot confirm the torque spec. If I am being completely honest which I know it's not a good habit but I did not "torque" mine. Atleast not with a torque wrench. I went by feel. It's a little tricky trying to torque something when using 2 universal joints and extensions anyway. But yeah I just got them nice and snug. You can sorta feel the washer compress and thats all you need, no need to put the death grip on them.

 

just a nice and tight (guttentight). You could get a tool that could go that low, but they are pricey and not worth the precision IMHO.

 

14lbs-ft or 168lbs-in is correct. Many people overtighten so if you can and have a 3/8 torque wrench, you probably should. I've removed dealership installed plugs and way overtorqued.

 

You definitely do not want to overtighten spark plugs on an aluminum head. Once you get resistance from the crush washer on the plug, keep going and once it tightens up a second time, another little twist of 1/8-1/4 turn and you should be good.

 

3/4 way to pulling the heads for fresh gaskets. Figured it was better to do a poor man's rebuild than pray it'll hold. Thanks to you guys for sharing your experiences. I'm definitely way past budget and better off for reliability (as far as the wife needs to know). Ordered a Roush 404225 tensioner for under $140 using code "iknowbill" for 8% discount. Covered tax and it's free shipping.

 

you use the link from page one for the purchase?

 

I went thru CJ's Pony Parts for Roush 404225 05-10 mustang gt. Tell me if the hyperlink isn't showing

https://www.cjponyparts.com/roush-b...ed-applications-mustang-gt-2005-2010/p/TEN19/

 

whats the verdict on the new plugs (ruth.)?
after running the ikh 24s and switching to the 22s again im not sure. seems the truck ran better with the 24s.