1st gen how to get the most rear travel without cutting up the bed?

I want to go long travel but I don't want to loose function of the bed. I have a 1998 Tacoma and want to go long travel with it, but I spend alot of nights sleeping in the bed of my truck and don't want to loose that option.

 

Check out these build threads:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/anthonys-99-tacoma.175933/page-9#post-5044645





https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wills-2000-reg-cab.366038/page-6#post-11358357



https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/squeaky-penguins-trip-reports-build-thread.261534/



https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/blanco-taco-build.352499/page-5



Or if you don't like money that much

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/boosted-trds-supercharged-cantilever-l-t-build.366215/

 

Thanks for the help man. The kit I’m looking at for the front will give me 13 inches of travel do you think the truck will do well with a rear setup like these?

 

Going SUA will help

 

Sua and cantilever will probably not you the most travel without going into the bed, but like Dalandser said, goodbye moneys

 

Can you go sua and not cut the bed?

 

As far as I know

 

Yeah. Just run shock hoops or a shock relocation like the first two I showed back in my first post.

 

I have spring under and a slim bed rack but can still easily sleep in my 5ft bed. Yes you sacrifice some room for storage, but can make up for it in the cab if need be. all depends on how you work the bed to sleep in.

 

That sounds awesome could you post a picture?

 

Tolerances are super tight on the shock mount but works perfect.

 

You can use wheel spacers and mount the shocks outside the frame tucked up in the wheel well

 

Heres my solution, was LT w/ bedcage but wanted my bed back. Easy and straight forward to do, just have to cycle your leafs to figure it out.

-Gen 1 Raptor Rear Fox IBP shocks: 11.5" stroke
-Deaver F67 SUA
-12" shackles (now mounted above frame)

Simple to do, crossmember puts the shock right up against the underside of the bed. Lower tabs are approx. 5" long, mounted around the 6-7 o'clock position on the axle. Stock bump stops tacked on top of old perches.


Approx. stock angles


Full bump, mounted as far outboard as possible with clearance


With SUA, the shocks are about the same level as the leaf spring brackets

 

The only thing is you're losing 3 or 4 inches of up travel but it looks good for sure. Sleeper. Was the 12" # you quoted the total travel? Wasn't sure if you were saying that the shocks are 11.5 stroke with 12" total travel. IBP should handle better though. Ride height definitely went up.

 

Never mind. I forgot that you have the 9" shackle through the frame whereas mine is on bottom which is why I'm getting a little more up travel unless the photo is deceiving and the main leaf has another inch or two of negative arch. I guess you pry didn't change the bump location, that's where you were bumping before? So really the only thing you lost is a little down travel? or nothing at all?

 

and the upper shock mount pry doesn't have any more room to go up because of the bed... So I guess that's your max up travel limit right there. Looks good for sure. I want to see the ride height with it all put back together and bed sides.

 

What the distance of the upper shackle mounts to the spring perches? Did you keep the same distance as when you had 9" shackles thru the frame? How much travel were you getting with the 12" shackles thru the frame?

 

I did not change the bumps from the original setup, I didnt want very much negative arch as well as with 33's I dont have to tub the wheel wells. Overall travel is 11.5", not enough lay over to gain more. The only thing I lost was down travel, it was getting 14" before with the bumps limiting the up travel. The 9" shackles thru the frame at 52.5" was pulling 18" but required notching the rear where they hit, which was the original mistake. 9" thru-frame would need to be moved to the rear to correct this issue.

I ended up going above the frame at the magic 52.5" for the 12" shackles because thru-frame actually gave the truck too much lift in the rear. Strangely enough the F67 dont seem to sag as much as before, possibly due to less arch than with the 9" thru-frame (more leaves sitting against each other now).

Hard to tell in the pic, but the truck is sitting slightly higher in the rear, maybe 3/4-1" with no weight after taking it around the block. I dropped the shock pressure from 225 to 90ish as the truck was super stiff and stinkbugged with full pressure. It seemed to handle relatively smooth around the block, but time will tell.

 

What hubs are you running up front? Manual?

 

yessir, came with the kit when I bought it off @06HAOLE.