Ray 10’s Rub with 265/65r17

I guess that's a matter of opinion.
IMO, it is a huge difference. Get enough offset to clear UCAs; stance be damned.

The diagram was a quick and dirty; plus I assumed 285/70/17 for OP's setup.

This comparison shows stock, the set-up your'e wanting and OPs(again, assuming 285/70/17).
I used 0 scrub radius for the stock setup, but it actually has a small amount of positive scrub; maybe 1/8".
I't just easier to show differences in scrub radius when comparing.

The OP increased his scrub by 55mm; even more if he went shorter than 285/70/17.
You will increase positive scrub by 35mm.

More positive scrub, also requires more toe-in. The positive scrub pulls the tire out as it rolls.
Alignment is a static measurement. Change the scrub and you change the dynamic alignment. It must be compensated for in the static alignment.

Here's a link to the calculator.

 

Sorry, to piggyback onto this. But if he had run 17x8.5 -10 he wouldn’t have had these issues?

I only ask because I’m going to run the -10 offset with 265/70/17 on my stock suspension 3rd gen.

From what I’ve gathered I should be fine with light trimming of fender liner and removing the front mud flap. Can anyone confirm?

 

You are correct. More negative offset means you are more likely to rub. you shouldn't rub much if at all because you are staying with the stock tire size.

 

Thank you for the quick reply. I figured this much, but got worried when a buddy asked if I’ll need a CMC. I didn’t think I would, but my confidence with truck knowledge is pretty low. I come from the car world and this is my first truck.

 

no problem. If you step up to 285's or higher, you will need a CMC because of how wide the tire is.

 

That's my plan as well. I plan on running 16x8 -10 and staying with stock tire size.

 

That’s the plan if/when I decide to go with a lift. Thanks again for the reassurance.

 

I think you can even run 265/75/16. Stock is 265/70/16. I have an OR and got 17” f5’s in that offset, but planning to run 265/70/17’s.

 

I have a set of gunmetal Ray 10's 16x8 -10 I will be installing soon on my white 2017 OR. Really like the look of this wheel.

 

I had some 16x8 0 offset wheels with 285/75/16 tires and there was no rubbing on the frame. The flares and pinch weld were modified but I also have SPC UCA's and put them at position E so that helps as well.

 

I have the same wheels spec and wheels also same tires 275-70. I had to trim little bit of fender flare and I also did a 2 inch level space. got the truck aliment and you will be able to drive the truck. only rubbing you will get when this is all done is when you park it will slightly hit plastic lining in front of the wheel

 

Where did you find these wheels I can't find the brushed gold anywhere

 

First off both are killer setups. Loved the first version with less offset and the -38 is such a killer setup but does take work to make it work well.

-10 and -12 depending 16" or 17" is a pretty big difference than stock. Stock Offset is ET30. I was running 285/70/17 with -12 Ray10s and went to 315/70/17 on the new -38 Ray10s and yah lets just say rubbing is expected. I rubbed a bunch with first gen Rays with less offset. Now its bigger than 265 but I had to remove all mud flaps, CMC and I did a few other items while I was at it. Eventually getting an aftermarket bumper in the front helped with getting more castor. Now with the -38 I needed much more and still rub in the rear. I think i am sitting closer to 4.5 castor now. Not a ton but its rubs like MF at times. Overkill for you had but I also trimmed the fenders but kept the flares and trimmed them. Not needed unless you go big but so much other shit to deal with when you do that. I may go back to 285/75/17 next time around.

Figure some comparisons of various configs using the Ray10s and different wheel sizes if you or anyone decide to change it up or add a lift. The less offset is great and a great blend/function on the Tacoma. the -38 is a killer setup as well but is def a more aggressive setup, if you or anyone is ready to rock them. I would almost say a lift is 100% required to make it work well.

Lift wise in most of these photos but the one in the mountains running OEM king setup so mild 2.5-3" lift. MTN setup has a rear shock relocation but still about the same

Front original Ray10s - 285/70/17 KO2s (no spacer)


Front original Ray10s - 285/70/17 KO2s (with 1" spacer)



New -38 Offset 17" Rays with 315/70/17 KM3s





Side of how much was done to try and fit them. (Partially did a more aggressive trim because I liked the look but even then they get pretty damn close to it.

 

Limited Release version. Unless they release them again you wont be able to find a new set.

 

You think i might make it with 1.1” lift for -38 offset and 275/65/17...?

 

I would think so. You may still want a CMC done but hard to say until it’s on. Maybe someone can chime in. They are small but wider the tire you have. Make sure the width rating works as these are 9” wide.

 

Sick truck. Are you LT or Mid travel?

 

It is a solid mid travel. Updated pics I have a 12" triple bypass relocate in the rear and double bypasses up front with the extended shocks. I have not maxed out the need for LT and was already deep into the mid travel so kept it going. At some point I can see me swapping up to a LT setup but for now its more of an expo rig.

 

nice. I’m kinda on the same boat. Invested too much on my current set up. Any pics of your set up? Would like to see it. Thanks!

I’m planning on going the same route with TC lowers and bypasses.