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AC FAILED MAYDAY

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by mendo707, Aug 25, 2020.

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  1. Aug 25, 2020 at 5:00 PM
    #1
    mendo707

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    mendo707 [OP] Member

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    Hey, in northern cali and the smokes getting bad. AC failed first day of the fires and as you can imagine, its hard to just use natural air/wind to keep cool and help is apreciated:

    2005 2.7 liter 4wd

    AC has usually always failed off and on. Id have to kick the blower motor every once and a while to get it on. Sometimes would only run on high, as of yesterday it has failed completely. i replaced a relay which was reading resistance, and the plug for the blower motor has one out of 4 burnt terminal. The one burnt was probably the reason why it only would run on high unless its new. The compressor pully still spins and will stop if the fuse is pulled so im guessing its good. no leaks, and fan is still running. the blower motor is the only one that wont spin. but idk if its not spinning because of something else or if thats the prob. Thank yall
     
    mendo707, Aug 25, 2020
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  2. Aug 25, 2020 at 5:03 PM
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    skytower

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    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    The resistor usually quits because the blower is drawing more current. The burnt terminals are a telltale.
    Replace the blower and resistor. Not a cheap fix, but it isn't difficult.
     
    skytower, Aug 25, 2020
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  3. Aug 25, 2020 at 5:04 PM
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    skytower

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    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    The blower draws more current because it is getting gummed up. It's not serviceable...
     
    skytower, Aug 25, 2020
    #3
  4. Aug 25, 2020 at 5:04 PM
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    vssman

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    vssman Rocket Engineer

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    vssman, Aug 25, 2020
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  5. Aug 25, 2020 at 5:14 PM
    #5
    mendo707

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    mendo707 [OP] Member

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    Okay, well then sounds like im buying a whole new blower motor and resister. any website yal
    l recommend as well? thank yall again.
     
    mendo707, Aug 25, 2020
    #5
  6. Aug 25, 2020 at 5:20 PM
    #6
    vssman

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    vssman Rocket Engineer

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    A lot of members will recommend OEM parts but I’ve had good experiences with NAPA or even Rockauto
     
    vssman, Aug 25, 2020
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  7. Aug 25, 2020 at 5:23 PM
    #7
    NAAC3TACO

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    NAAC3TACO Middle aged member

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    Just east of crazy, NV
    Vehicle:
    2014 SR5 DCLB 4x4
    Color matched door handles, Weathertech floor liners, bed mat, Durafit seat covers, tailgate clamp, 2016 TRD Sport 17" wheels with Yokohama Geolander AT tires , Toyota exhaust tip, Toyota/Yakima bike rail mount, Toyota wheel locks, Toyota hitch cover, Redline hood struts, unifilter on air pump.
    Make sure you replace the resistor connector also.
     
    NAAC3TACO, Aug 25, 2020
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  8. Aug 25, 2020 at 7:45 PM
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    skytower

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    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    Good luck, stay frosty, and welcome to TW:)
     
    skytower, Aug 25, 2020
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  9. Aug 25, 2020 at 7:52 PM
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    mendo707

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    mendo707 [OP] Member

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    thanks again. a lot of help:) and im a 1911 enthusiast as well good shit
     
    mendo707, Aug 25, 2020
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  10. Aug 26, 2020 at 6:15 AM
    #10
    CurtB

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    CurtB Old Timer knowitall

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    I'd replace the resistor and connector 1st. Check the connector that plugs into the blower for burnt terminals. You may not need a new blower.
     
    CurtB, Aug 26, 2020
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  11. Aug 26, 2020 at 11:32 AM
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    skytower

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    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    Something causes the burnt terminals, and it isn't PFM. That cause is usually the blower is drawing more current because it is gummed up. It could also be caused by an extremely dirty cabin air filter, but it would have to be dirty for a long time. You'd notice the loss of airflow...

    So, you can replace the connector and resistor, like I did previously... and then have to replace them all a few months down the road, again, plus the blower, because I didn't listen to techs who were wiser than I was. As with all things, YMMV. Good luck!
     
    skytower, Aug 26, 2020
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  12. Aug 26, 2020 at 11:53 AM
    #12
    CurtB

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    CurtB Old Timer knowitall

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    A burnt terminal can be caused by a poor terminal connection as well. It would not be hard to try the old blower, and keep an eye on it and the terminals.
     
    CurtB, Aug 26, 2020
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  13. Aug 26, 2020 at 3:20 PM
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    Jimmyh

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    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I can't stand it anymore.

    Something is causing the burned terminals. It is a loose fitting terminal acting as a heater. This causes localized heating at the terminal. A heater is a high resistance in a wire. If it was an excessive current draw it would cause heating the entire length of the wire and the insulation would melt.

    A blocked fan blower will draw less current than an unblocked fan. Scientific fact as the fan motor is doing less work.
     
    Jimmyh, Aug 26, 2020
    #13
  14. Aug 26, 2020 at 3:29 PM
    #14
    CurtB

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    CurtB Old Timer knowitall

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    Nope, need to replace the blower, resistor, complete truck harness, drivers seat, and the wipers. And replace the air in the spare tire. :D
    Hang in there Jimmy. :thumbsup:
     
    CurtB, Aug 26, 2020
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  15. Aug 26, 2020 at 3:35 PM
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    Jimmyh

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    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    That cheered me up! :)
     
    Jimmyh, Aug 26, 2020
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  16. Aug 26, 2020 at 7:53 PM
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    CurtB

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    CurtB Old Timer knowitall

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    Good!
    It irks me when guys post things they really know nothing about, altho I know they mean well. Especially when guys like you that have worked that biz for 40 years, and they want to argue with you. Not necessarily in this thread, but it does happen. Keep up the good work, no doubt I will be needing your advice in the future.
     
    CurtB, Aug 26, 2020
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  17. Aug 26, 2020 at 8:22 PM
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    davidstacoma

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    davidstacoma Friendly Curmudgeon

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    A previous truck I had there were multiple resistors in the resistor pack. One for each speed. One way to tell it wasn’t the blower motor on that truck is the fan worked on all other speeds but low, so I knew the motor was good so all I replaced Was the resistor and the connector, that fixed it. The resistor with the burned connector was the problem.
    If the Tacoma is like that you can test different fan speeds and see. However you said you had to “kick” the blower motor to get it to run that tends to indicate a motor issue and a bad resistor/burnt terminal likely caused by the faulty motor.
     
    davidstacoma, Aug 26, 2020
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  18. Aug 26, 2020 at 9:09 PM
    #18
    CurtB

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    CurtB Old Timer knowitall

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    Quoted for @Jimmyh.
    I don't think I can kick my blower motor from the driver's seat. Slap the glove box maybe, which jars the motor and connector and the resistor and connector. How hard is it to pull the connectors and look at them?
     
    CurtB, Aug 26, 2020
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  19. Aug 27, 2020 at 12:08 AM
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    Jimmyh

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    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    They are either double jointed with long legs or they have a passenger to kick it for them... :)
     
    Jimmyh, Aug 27, 2020
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  20. Aug 27, 2020 at 4:05 AM
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    Larzzzz

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    Larzzzz Grande' Ricardo

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    Breathe.... In through the nose. Out through the ears...
     
    Larzzzz, Aug 27, 2020
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Page 1 of 2

Products Discussed in

973-582 HVAC Fan Blower Motor Resistor with Wire Harness Replacement for 2005-2020 Toyota Tacoma, Replace# 4P1650, JA1772, RU1435, RU746, 8713804050, 8713804052
$17.88
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