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2TR-FE Poly Motor Mounts

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by camojared, Aug 31, 2020.

  1. Aug 31, 2020 at 12:55 PM
    #1
    camojared

    camojared [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys and gals, after doing research I've discovered no one offers a more solid motor mount to replace the worn out rubber mounts on our trucks. So determined to not replace them with factory mounts I've begun the process of building my own. If there's interest I can build these for others as well. Everything will be 1/4" steel with the option of stainless. Here's my progress so far, just the frame side and motor side plate.

    0831201547_HDR.jpg
     
  2. Aug 31, 2020 at 12:56 PM
    #2
    dirty deeds

    dirty deeds Big Blue Nation!

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    I'm listening...
     
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  3. Aug 31, 2020 at 1:00 PM
    #3
    Brian422

    Brian422 I fell into the pit that is TW

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    following
     
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  4. Aug 31, 2020 at 1:04 PM
    #4
    camojared

    camojared [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Those are next on my list since its shot on my truck as well!
     
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  5. Aug 31, 2020 at 1:05 PM
    #5
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    I don't know who invented that myth, but that is very not true Rob.
     
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  6. Aug 31, 2020 at 1:13 PM
    #6
    camojared

    camojared [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I could see problems if it was the other way around though, poly trans mount with worn out motor mounts. Maybe I'm wrong as well?
     
  7. Aug 31, 2020 at 1:38 PM
    #7
    dirty deeds

    dirty deeds Big Blue Nation!

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    What's the long term here? Mass production, lead time, consumer cost, rebuildable?

    I want it NOW! lol
     
  8. Aug 31, 2020 at 1:43 PM
    #8
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    The other way around hell yeah, but poly motor mounts and the trans mount being rubber nah, no problems.

    The whole idea here is to have more mounts which are stronger over weaker and to replace the poly mounts in the area strategically in correlation to where the most movement occurs to achieve minimum movement under torque.

    So like if you put in one poly engine mount and leave the other rubber and leave your trans rubber as well that's a huge no go.

    Another example is that if you do a poly trans mount and leave the rest rubber that's a no go as well because you are leaving too much kinetic absorption up to the singular point in the poly trans mount and can potentially crack your tailshaft housing due to all of that movement being more focused on the singular strengthened mount.

    On cars with 4 mounts of transverse mounted designs you are best off doing the front and rear engine poly mounts first as those see the most torque due to the natural torquing movement of the engine, and you can wait on the other two.
     
  9. Aug 31, 2020 at 8:32 PM
    #9
    camojared

    camojared [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Prototype should be done in 2-3 weeks then after that I can get batches cut out whenever I want. The shop I use has a 1-2 week lead time on their laser. It'll take me a day to weld then another week at powder coater if the consumer wants that. The bushings used are a universal energy suspension bushing easily sourced for about $20 per pair if they ever need replaced. As far as cost for the kit im not sure yet as the shop I go through just cuts what I ask and bills me later.

    Thanks for the helpful info!
     
  10. Sep 3, 2020 at 10:45 PM
    #10
    Speshuled619

    Speshuled619 Member

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  11. Sep 4, 2020 at 3:44 PM
    #11
    Taco47

    Taco47 Well-Known Member

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    Hope this comes to fruition, I feel like i'm chasing down a mouse in a shoe box at times.
     
  12. Sep 16, 2020 at 6:48 AM
    #12
    MY50cal

    MY50cal ---- Tread Lightly ---- Leave No Trace

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    Yep.
  13. Sep 26, 2020 at 8:12 PM
    #13
    Fleischwagen

    Fleischwagen 2.7 > 3.5

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    2nd gen and 3rd gen the same mount? I'm assuming they are and if thats the case..... yessss pleaseeee
     
  14. Sep 29, 2020 at 6:48 AM
    #14
    dirty deeds

    dirty deeds Big Blue Nation!

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    :playball:
     
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  15. Oct 11, 2020 at 10:28 AM
    #15
    camojared

    camojared [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sorry guys school has been crazy and I just got some shop time this weekend. The trucks been cleaned up from the last adventure and the final drawings have been sent out and the laser shop. I should have parts back in two weeks. These are way overkill for our motors but its how I usually build things, all 1/4" plate notched and fully boxed. There's also a pic of the 1/4" skids I built and a set of 3/16" stainless I finished up late August.

    1011201204b.jpg
    1011201204a.jpg
    1010201713b_HDR.jpg
     
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  16. Oct 11, 2020 at 10:30 AM
    #16
    camojared

    camojared [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Stainless Skids

    0912201534_HDR.jpg
     
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  17. Oct 15, 2020 at 9:33 PM
    #17
    Taco47

    Taco47 Well-Known Member

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    your work looks solid, I'm looking forward to see the final product
     
  18. Oct 18, 2020 at 10:07 AM
    #18
    dirty deeds

    dirty deeds Big Blue Nation!

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    Market these as WIY/DIY and a welded option, you'll move some units for sure
     
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  19. Oct 30, 2020 at 12:32 PM
    #19
    camojared

    camojared [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just picked up the first set and they are getting close to how I'd like them, hopefully I'll have time to weld then together this weekend and use them while I wait on the next set. A DIY kit may be an option, but no guarantees.

    1030201517.jpg
    1030201529.jpg
     
  20. Nov 10, 2020 at 6:49 PM
    #20
    dcvt16

    dcvt16 Well-Known Member

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    Total Chaos 5 lug long travel kit, Fox coilovers. Mcneil fiberglass. Defined engineering sua, 14 in kings, Defined shock hoops rear. Weathertech digital liners and vent visors. Paint match grille and added fogs. 4.56 gears, detriot truetrac LSD (gear type), LCE header, URD 2TR supercharger.
    I'd take a set, depending on price. They look very stout.
    I'd do a diy weld kit.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2020

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