Custom overhead 6 switch panel

How and where are you running the wires to under the hood

 

Have a Bussman Relay Fuse Box. I made a 10ft harness that I will be running up the side pillar and connecting it with Molex 10 pin connector.

 

Do you have additional pictures?

 

That looks great. Did you do a write up on this and comment on where you bought the materials?

 

A pillar pics would be great.

 

Followed the link below step by step but modified for my build
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/

 

I started scavenging for parts months ago but got stuck on Molex pieces. Where'd you get your supply? And I'm guessing you didn't shell out for the official Molex crimper?

 

Dumb question, but yet I feel compelled to ask, would a 5 switch panel require any less hacking of the back of the overhead console? Or is it roughly the same so may as well have 6 spots?

 

If I remember right, there are 4 holes cut in the back already for 4 switches. So a 4 switch panel would require no cutting of the back.

 

Finally got started. Anyone have advice on how to address the hump present when I test fit? Is the idea to JB weld and then put something heavy on top while it cures?

I did a pretty minimalist cut and managed to save all three front trim pieces. If I glued the passenger trim piece back in place it would look completely stock. Not that I want that. Though to be honest, I’d be perfectly set with 5 switches vs 6 if there were some way to stuff 2 switch keys into that piece.

As far as steps go, I did

1. Remove console, unplug, remove switches, remove harness.
2. Remove two switch trim plates using small flat head to press the tabs in.
3. Dremel with small metal cutting wheel to remove material. It doesn’t seem necessary to cut as much as others did, though I think that might make things harder for me to glue it in.
4. Remove passenger trim plate and shave edges down with drywall knife (non-retractable) progressively until no obstructions remain.

Photos of where I’m at. I could potentially try to sand or grind a little off the corners but I think it’s as tight as it is for a good reason.

 

Went with quarters for a “just right” weight and a light dusting of hot glue to hopefully ensure the hump stays flat. I guess I’ll find out soon.

 

Thats more or less how I did it. I used a board on either side and some clamps to push the middle down. I used small dabs of glue in the center and the corners. Then when that dried, I flipped it over and glued the whole backside to keep it in place.

 

Thanks. It came out as good as I suspect I’m capable of. I’m now waiting on a follow on idea I had to JB weld some standoffs so I can mount my garage door opener circuit directly to the console.

Anyone have a decent suggestion for the 6th spot which is currently a blank? I might just order up a 3rd garage switch but I only have two doors so don’t really need 3.

 

I put a joke switch in there. Its not hooked up to anything right now, but I plan to just run it to a plug in the bed that I can plug in Christmas lights, or halloween decorations, or something stupid like that.

 

oh man I freaking love that!

 

https://www.aironboard.com/online/p...push-switches.html?color=288&toyota_model=293

They have a bunch of joke switches, include stripper pole ones for the refined tacoma owner. Plus the blue they use matches really really well with the OEM switched.

 

What was the easiest way you found to run the wires for the switches?

 

I made a harness that connects to all the new switches, it has a single ground, single power, and single illumination wire. Then I have the signal from each switch too. Those 2 sets of wires are then individually wrapped in tessa tape and routed down the drivers side pillar and connected to their respective lights.

 

For fishing through the headliner, I found a piece of thin gauge solid core as a lead worked well for me. Better than a more rigid coat hangar.

 

when will these be making a comeback @MESO