Preparing , preparing , you're always preparing . OZ-T's "Just build the damn shop already build ".

I'm going to use a layer of exterior insulation for one , minor air sealing details are the other things

 

Surprised you didn’t go with a Ridge vent type system. Is it not conducive to heavy rainfall areas?

 

you mean the roof ? It is a continuous ridge vent

 

Ah, wasn’t lookin’ close enough then. I just can’t believe the natural draft from mine. Wish I would have known about this years ago. It would certainly have saved on shingles. Hot roofs are definitely on the way out.

 

Second side of roof sheeted & nailed off . Top is open 2" for continuous ridge vent .




Started installing peel & stick roofing underlayment this afternoon , got half of roof covered , will finish up in the morning .

i'm using Titanium PSU-30

https://www.owenscorning.com/en-us/roofing/products/titanium-psu30

 

You should see the code in the southwest. We don't even bother with waterproofing or ventilation.

 

In general, is making a building too tight a bad thing? I always though it was good to have some natural infiltration.

 

Tight building envelope is good with proper mechanical ventilation .

HRV systems are required in new home construction here

 

That's what I was thinking. Back in the early 90's, I sold plumbing and heating equipment. I also sold a few of those Tjernlund forced air kits for tightly constructed houses.

 

The HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) or ERV performs whole house air exchange with fresh outside air and uses the heat (or cooling for an ERV) that is in the exhausted inside air to warm (or cool) the incoming fresh air

 

OZ what Is your plan for the doors? Looks like a big opening. Don’t remember if you mentioned it or not and thought Maybe it was something you might build yourself.

 

The front doors will be a double 4'x8' set of outswing carriage doors I am going to build . The single man door will be a solid core slab door for now till I get final inspection then thats coming out and being replaced by a door I build .

Our current code requires all doors and windows in heated structures to be NAFS compliant with the exception of 'vehicle access doors' . So my carriage doors are for 'vehicle access' and the prehung slab door I have is a NAFS compliant unit I used as a temporary front door on my last client build.

NAFS compliant doors need to be 3rd party tested for compliance so building them yourself isn't really feasible , thats why I'm going to do it after the fact .

 

We're officially waterproof

 

This morning I went and picked up all my full dimension 2"x10" cedar fascia and barge boards . Have them sticker stacked with a fan on them inside the building to remove some moisture before they go up and then I moved on to starting to cut and prep the posts and beams for the extended roof overhang

 

Just curious about your roof sheeting. In the US on our roofs, we usually run OSB (long side) perpendicular to the roof's trusses or rafters and place the H-clips on the unsupported edges. Some areas don't even require H-Clips.

It appears that your plywood is run with the long side parallel to your rafters. Just curious what the thinking is behind this application. Is this something the plywood manufacturer prefers because it increases the shear value. Or is this just a customary application in Canada?

 

You must have missed the pics of the 2x4 strapping over the rafters. .

 

Just found it. What can I say

 

Yeah , roof plywood is perpendicular to the supporting 2x4 strapping with Simpson H clips at unsupported edges

https://www.strongtie.com/clipsandt...ectors/pscl-psca_productgroup_wcc/p/pscl.psca

 

Discussion !

 

Today I cut the 14' 6x6 I milled from the left over beams shown earlier in the thread into my 7' post blanks for the extended roof overhang .

The posts all sit on these custom 1/4" steel knife plates cast into the concrete columns




To cut the pocket for the knife plates its a matter of laying out the bottom of the posts from centre each way with the knife plate in the correct orientation of how you want the post to install . In this case 'R' is the road face and 'O' is out , away from building




Plunge cut with my Makita 16" electric chainsaw to depth of approx 11". I run heavy mineral oil in this saw instead of regular bar oil because it does not discolour the wood




Posts all standing to test and adjust fit as necessary . Once I'm happy with them I will shoot top elevations of posts with builder's level , cut to length and notch for beam