Kill switch ( I feel like I'm missing something....)

I have a 2014 manual econo-package...my keys do not have chips and I'd like to install a kill switch.

Searching around I've found three suggestions on the forum (but each have an issue):
-Interrupt ST2 (G-B), but that's a higher current conductor that goes through the contacts of the STA relay
-Interrupt the negative wire feeding the STA relay (W-B), but that's inside the engine fuse box and therefore a PITA
-Interrupt the conductors going to the clutch switch, but this looks like the clutch start cancel switch easily bypasses this.

Looking at the diagrams, the obvious choice is ST1 (B-W)...this is inline with the 7.5A fuse and though I haven't checked, logically the operating current is less than that. The only load I see is the coil of the STA relay and inputs to the ECUs, and it's conveniently in the cab...BUT nowhere in any of those threads did I see this suggested once.

I feel like I'm missing something...is there some reason NOT to use ST1 (B-W) as a kill switch???

thanks
Phil

 

12V to fuel pump at left kick panel. Red/white wire

 

thanks for the reply hx989, I've heard that suggest before too

If you interrupt the fuel pump with a switch and the switch gets switched off (or fails) while driving the truck will stall...seems bad!

 

Wire it to an OE style switch on the dash.

 

So 2nd gens don't have a clutch start cancel? 1st gens do and if you disrupt the clutch safety circuit all someone has to do is push the clutch start cancel button and it should start right up. I haven't verified that with a wiring diagram but the cancel button over rides the clutch safety in normal operation.

EDIT: Never mind. I missed the last part of your last paragraph lol

 

Yeah I tend to overthink things but so it goes

Is there not a risk of stall by interrupting the fuel pump?

If I interrupt the clutch and have to disable the clutch cancel button too why not just do ST1 which is upstream of both?

 

This is easily accomplished using a NO (normally open) SPDT (single pole double throw) relay. The NEG signal for the relay should be from a switch currently in the vehicle.

I did this years ago to a friends Honda (we all know those get stolen often). I had the relay interrupt the starter wire, the NEG side of the relay was connected to his high beam switch.
A couple weeks later, his car was broken into and they did TRY to steal it (steering column damaged). It took like $20 in parts. You can also wire the other side of the relay to the horn so if someone tried to turn the key to start it, the horn will sound.

 

Sure about that? I used to have a 2010 2.7L 4x4 5spd and seem to recall starting it in neutral from outside the truck several times. Clutch cancel is only so you can use the starter to crank you uphill when sliding back could be a bad time. Would also be stupid if ya can’t bump start it when the battery is drained

 

Just pull your fuel pump relay instead then. No cutting wires required

 

I personally like Furiosa’s from Mad Max the best

 

Ouch. I certainly can figure out how to install a kill switch, I’m merely asking, cordially, to people who might know more than I, the best way to do it.

I generally avoid participating in online forums and this perfectly demonstrates why.

thanks everyone