7 pin trailer wiring where to connect 95.5 truck

Okay guys I need your wonderful advice. I am putting a 7 pin conversion plug on my truck, I have the 4 pin plug on the truck already.

Any hints on if we have a plug hidden, or where would you connect it to?

I need power ( for brakes so a heavier load ), ground I understand, and probably just connect to the switch on the brake pedal for the last one. Also I need the aux power to the trailer.

I was thinking of putting a 30 amp relay at the battery to shut the aux and the brake power off, what would/should I connect that relay to for control?

 

I wired my truck with this: https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/30717.html

And then I added a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 Brake controller. Here it is for your truck:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brake-Controller/Toyota/Tacoma/1995/90195.html?VehicleID=1995203497

There is/are excellent wiring diagrams that tell you everything to do to wire it properly too. Worked GREAT for my truck, and I just literally take the brake controller control off when I don't need it and stow it in the glove box.

 

I already bought and received a reese controller.

I really just need a "on" wire some where in the front of the truck prefer it to be only key in run position so I dont risk killing the battery with the key in the acc position.

 

I have never used a adapter to install 7 pin plugs. 7 pin is all I use .

All connections got hard wired to the tail light harness mechanical connection soldered and heat shrink.

Do you have a problem with your battery going dead now??

Unless the brake control unit has a problem or the brake light switch fails in the closed position leaving your brake lights on all week you should not have a battery drain.

While it is your vehicle and if you want to power the brake control via switched power .

 

I more want the aux power switched. That way the trailer can not drain the starting battery if I dont unplug.
The truck has a 4 pin on it already, I bought the 7 pin that has a spot for the 4 pin to plug into, so I dont have to redo all those connections.
No issues with the battery draining now, I just dont want them later.

My plan at this point is to run a 10 gauge with a fuse from the battery to a relay under the dash, triggered by the radio power. The wire out of the relay will go to the aux power on the jack, maybe the brake controller maybe not. I have a stock switch I can put in the dash that the relay trigger power can run thru, that way I have the option of shutting it off. I am not sure I am doing the switch in the dash but I might.

 

IMO that's more trouble than it's worth. Why would you not unplug it?

Just unplug it. I did that all the time when I towed my popup. If we stopped for dinner or something, I'd unplug the trailer and switch the fridge (it was 12v/120/LP gas) to propane so it wouldn't drain either battery. I don't worry about it with my hard side, as the fridge is all propane anyway.

I ran a class III hidden hitch with a combo 4-pin/7-pin. It was great not having to mess with an adapter if I needed to tow my utility trailer (4-pin).

 

I just used a 30 or 40 amp breaker (can’t remember which?) for the line power...directly from the battery. I like those over relays as they are to resettable style and from what I’ve read (not an expert), they hold up.

As you stated, I did tap the brake pedal switch and ran that
back with a 12v accessory. Also, I replaced my taillight converter (18 years old) as my trailer lights would function erratically at times.

My brake controller has not effected my battery (that I can tell), and even upgrading a single axle landscape trailer has reduced the front brakes needing replaced every 2-3 years.

Here’s my controller, which I also have in my 2020 TRD Sport.

$119 Tekonsha 90160 Primus IQ Electronic Brake Control, Grey

Tekonsha 90160 Primus IQ Electronic Brake Control

 

I purchase the trailer hitch wire kit at Uhaul installed it using their schematic seems to work fine.
mine is a 2004 Toyota Prerunner 2.7L Automatic