5.5’ water submerssion help

My question:
If i purchased a salvage ECM of same year (2014) and options are these modules VIN specific? If so are they able to be re-flashed to my vehicle?

Backstory:
I was not wheeling and the one time is wasnt #%*king around.... I was crossing a levy road in Providence Forge VA after a lot of rain and high water. This road was compacted gravel base with trap rock top and solid. The location prior to left no indication of 5.5’ sinkholes. I came up to a section of road that had moving water over the top of the road however i could see ground. I was following a vehicle that went to the left of a high spot and i chose the right side that appeared to be just as good of a line..... It was not.
Once i made entry into the “puddle” it was a bedrock drop off that ate my front wheels and put water just breaking the front of the hood. Because of the angle i did not want to be stuck w the front part of my engine bay and intake in the water. I decided to put in 4lo and level out and make entry. Bc i dropped off so quickly the initial wake came back once my rear wheels were off the drop off. This caused the engine to stutter and stall. I managed to restart, climb out the window as water was 1” below my door handles pop the hood and remove my air filter that was damp w water. I left the hood open to prevent water from the fan rolling around inside the engine bay. It ran for a couple min and died. By the the time i was pulled out, (grateful for the help but the kid was slow) it was about ten min, water flooded the cab to the bottom of the steering wheel.
I pulled coils and plugs purged the cyliders and checked the now milky oil. Changed plugs and put back together....fired right up. I decided to leave it until i could change the oil. It sat for a day Towed back to my house changed oil and had it running for 30 seconds. I shut it down and gathered supplies to do fluids and drain fuel tank while i decided if i was going to put in a claim.
I yesterday i drained fuel, added dry gas and replaced 5 gal of fuel, checked front and rear diff which were suprisingly not contaminated (i will still change), drained 3.75 Qts of tranny fluid (it was very contaminated) and replaced equal amount. I removed coils and plugs, cleaned and replaced. I no longer hear my secondary air kick on, or my fuel pump. I replaced the two fuel pump relays and checked all of the fuses which have continuity. When i plug in my scanner (innova 5510) i get U0100 code. So as it sits currently i have found a salvage ECM for $135 that is worth trying if i get an answer to my original question. If not ill unwillingly have to put in an ins claim. I am mechanically the vehicle will run, but i fear even if i get an ECM to work ill be chasing problems for the foreseeable future. Im open to input.

 

More photos

 

Good lord... To answer your question directly, I think as long as the donor truck was the same drive line (AT vs MT, 4x4, V6, etc) the ECU swap should be ok.. Youll probably also want to be close on the year for stuff like 2nd air injection..

Im sure others with more experience can say for sure. Also there are other threads on ECU swaps if you search. That may give you a better idea.

 

I think my 2nd air is ok just the input from the ECM is not occurring but ‍♂️. Id do more checking but im currently driving my 7.3 powerstoke bucket truck and dont have a ton of time to devote to troubleshooting/learning. Trying to avoid a claim. Thanks for the response tho.

 

I'd file a claim and hope they total it.

 

I know im torn, if they do i wont get anywhere near what its worth SC logged schedule maint etc. Granted everyone thinks their stuff is the best but finding a comp to me would be a tuff sell. Im kinda leaning that way, its a good point.

 

Haha

 

Is the ECU the only problem? You said you havent had much time to look into it, but I would at least do that before throwing in the towel and filing a claim.

The interior of these trucks isnt that hard to take out, so that should help to dry everything out (though it will probably still smell a bit)

 

Yikes. I think she’s a goner.

What kind of road is this? Were you out in the wilderness and coming back home or is this the path to your house?

 

That doesn’t look good at all...personally, take your loss, I think you’re going to have more problems down the road.

 

I sank my ‘15 OR and the water got up to the bottom of the seats, I fried so many sensors and connections, it sucked ass hunting them all down. Can only imagine what you got going that deep. File the claim, let the dealership attack it with tech stream.

 

Just draining the contaminated tranny pan isn’t good enough. You need to flush the complete system. There’s another 7 qts left that has water.

 

It was a powerline road on private property. We were doing some volunteer work for an upcoming retriever hunt test.

I would certainly flush just trying to limit $ getting moving components lubed to assess if it will run long enough to get codes. As it stands the ecm is not communicating. I certainly am on board with a claim and the high likelihood of chasing problem after problem, just a hard pill to swallow.

 

As far as now the ECM is my main problem preventing me from finding others.

 

File the claim.

You essentially have a flood vehicle from the aftermath of a Hurricane or Mississippi flood.

 

I don't think insurance covers people using their trucks as submarines

 

Rip that supercharger off and file a claim.
You're right, the S/C is the most expensive and hardest to find. Get the stock intake and other components from a donor truck and install those so it's back to stock, and "runs" as well as a flooded truck would.

 

Haha and i still have all of the stock naturally aspirated components

 

As long as you match the ECM numbers from yours to the new (used) ECM, it'll work. You'll need to paperclip across a couple pins to pair the new ECM with your truck before it can start. See here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-tricks-and-mods.518932/page-17#post-16453932

Good luck with your truck.