Popping sound left front suspension 2015 Pre-Runner

I have a 2015 Tacoma SR5 Pre-runner V-6 2 wheel drive ( 31,000 miles ) that has developed a pop sound in the front left side suspension when I drive over a valley drain or dip in the road. Once it does this it will not pop on the next dip. It seems to reset under acceleration and pop again at next time driven over dip in road. Have had a front end shop check for anything notably loose with nothing found. I don't put a lot of miles on the truck and just paved road driving. What can I do to find this issue. Thank you

 

Maybe a control arm bushing?
They can pop even when the bolts are tight.

Can you jack the truck up on the side it make the noise, then let it down and see if it pops?

 

Ball joint or wheel bearing.

Chock the wheels and lift the truck from the bottom control arm on that side. Grab the tire at 12 and 6 and shake. If it clunks it’s a wheel bearing. Grab the wheel again at 3 and 9 and shake again. Clunk? It’s ball joints.

 

I had the same issue. I thought it was the LCA. I tried to replace it, but I ran into some issues so I put everything back together and torqued it while I was waiting for more parts. Interestingly enough the sound went away. I never replaced anything after that. I would recommend to torque everything again before you replace anything.

 

It’s called a “you don’t drive me enough I’m mad at you pop”. It’s a real problem with these trucks.

 

Hahahahahaha. You may be right there 1969!!! I will try the floor jack raise and drop test first then torque everything down . Thanks everyone , I new this was the place to get information.

Unrelated but while I am here wanted to ask about my drivers window rattle when partially to near all the way down. Do the window tracks ( runners ) need to be replaced.

My first Toyota was a 1985 4x4 I had until 2005 with no issues at all and the new 2005 Pre-Runner was an absolute trouble free truck so I was due . I love my 2015 but for the little issues . Will buy another new Tacoma when I feel I have gotten my money out of the new tires I just bought. Man!! I have never seen a factory tire on a new truck with so little tread and hard as a rock.

 

Sway bar link I think

 

Gotta get under and see what has play in it

 

A couple easy checks here...

Sway Bar Link check LOADED. While the truck is on the ground you can put your hand at the end of the sway bar where the sway bar link mounts. Attempt to move the sway bar with your hand up and down, you'll feel the play if there is any as if there is a small mechanical clunk.

Ball Joints and Inner/Outer Tie Rod ends

-Loaded - See Below
- Use a floor jack and place it under the control arm as close to the wheel as possible. You can usually get the cup of the floor jack on the area that the Lower Ball Joint (LBJ) mounts to the Lower Control Arm (LCA). If the base of the jack is too wide to safely do this you can jack the truck up on the subframe until tires are about 8" off the ground and place a jackstand in the same location as described on the LCA, one side at a tiem. Then lower the the jack to put vehicle weight on the side you are inspecting until the side is compressed as much as possible while leaving about 4-6" of clearance between the ground and the tire.
- Jack the LCA up until the tire is about 4-6" off the ground.
- Place a long pry bar or 2x4 under the tire.
- While keeping contact with the tire, move the pry bar in short up and down strokes. You are basically prying up on the tire using the ground as your fulcrum point. You don't need to use a lot of force or try to lift the vehicle with your prying device. You are simply looking for play in the Upper and Lower Ball Joints.
- While you are prying up in down in short strokes you should have a second person placing their hand on the UPPER and LOWER Ball Joints to feel for play. If you don't have a second person you can record it with your phone on the ground with the Upper Ball Joint (UBJ) and LBJ in focus to see if there is play.
- If you have play in either the UBJ or LBJ you will likely feel it in the pry bar while prying.
- While you're here check you can check the Wheel bearing and Inner/Outer tie rod ends for play.
- Simply place you're hands on the tire at the 9 oclock and 3 oclock positions and wiggle (not violently) sided to side. If you feel play it is likely the Inner or Outer Tie Rod Ends. If you have a second hand you can have one person wiggle the tire sided to side while you place your hand on the Outer Tie Rod end mount. You will feel an obvious clunk if it is the Outer Tie Rod ball joint, if it feels more muted it is likely the Inner Tie Rod joint. If you suspect the Inner Tie Rod joint you can put your hand on the exposed portion of the tie rod shaft and you will feel the clunk more clearly.
- Now place your hands on the 12 oclock and 6 oclock positions to inspect the Wheel Bearing and this will show play in the UBJ/LBJ.
- If you feel play, make sure to have that second person or camera at the ready. You will be looking for play at the UBJ/LBJ as described above. If there is none, then it is the wheel bearing by process of elimination. Though the wheel bearing design on our trucks (like many modern vehicle) usually don't show much, if any play unless they are way beyond bad. Most of the time if you have a bad wheel bearing you will have a noise and little to no play.
- You can also inspect the lower shock bushing by trying to move it with your hand or a small pry bar up and down. A visual inspection is good too. If the rubber is deteriorated it will appear that the sleeve/bushing is pushed almost metal to metal against the lower mount of the shock.
- Check the LCA inner bushings by placing a pry bar inbetween the subframe and the LCA. Pry in short strokes and inspect for play. They are rubber bushings so if you pry hard enough there will be some give to those bushings. But you are looking for excessive play. Not likely the cause as I've never seen one go bad, most times they are replaced due to the camber bolts being seized inside the bushing sleeve.
- Now just switch sides and check that side the same way.

Unloaded - See Below
- Jack up the truck from the subframe to get both tires off the ground.
- Then check all the same steps as above EXCEPT the steps for using a pry bar. I have not found that the UBJ/LBJ show play when unloaded using the pry bar method, but if you want to try it you're more than welcome to.
- Check the Sway Bar Bushings and Links at this time as well. Place your hand on the end of the sway where you can get a good grip. Trying moving the sway bar in an UP and DOWN motion. You are feeling for play. If you feel play, place your opposite hand on each of the sway bar link ball joints on the respective side you are on. If you feel no obvious clunk/play check the other side. If you still have play but don't feel it in that link either then remove your skid plate, get a good grip in the middle of the sway bar, move it up and down, forward and aft and watch for play in the sway bar bushings. One way to rule out the sway bar bushings (80% of the time) is going over a speed bump straight, there will likely be no clunk/noise. Then if you go over a bump targeting just one side or the other (like a small pot hole or the edge of the speed bump) and your clunk comes back then it is likely the sway bar bushings.

I know this sounds like a LONG and EXTENSIVE checkout. But once you do it and know the steps it will only take about 10 minutes, it'll probably take longer to read this than to perform it. haha

Given the symptoms I would assume a lower shock bushing is dried out and making the noise or a ball joint just hasn't had enough movement throughout its lifetime to stay lubricated properly, likely the lower one if thats the case.

 

Wow!!! Thank you Fergie. I'm going to find it!!!