How do you go about getting the invoice?

Hey everyone,

Shopping around for my first Tacoma. I've read a bunch of threads on how people negotiate using the invoice price. How does one go about getting the invoice?

I'm pretty sure the dealer is not just going to give this up. I see sites like edmunds offer the invoice. But how can I be certain they aren't working with the manufacturers to provide a phony invoice.

 

Good luck with this. Most dealers are shady AF. Lie to your face. However the 1 percent of the good dealers will actually print off and bring out the invoice. The sales manager is usually the one who would bring it out and review it with you. If they take the time to do this and explain it all, then I would go with that dealer. It’s the ones who say, let me see what I can do or we don’t have an invoice sheet, blah blah blah. Then that is a sign to run for the hills. Have all your homework done and put them in check every time they open their lying mouths and you’ll be fine OP. Good luck with the purchase.

 

I used Costco, they list MSRP and invoice as you selected the configuration online. I put it all in a spreadsheet and l built the one I wanted, plus whatever I was interested in on their lot.

I brought a laptop with me and when we talked numbers I would compare to invoice. The salesman didn't seem too pleased I knew invoice of everything, including accessories. I took that as I sign I was on the right track.

 

Post up your state, @liljfa and people should be able to guide you to a good dealer or away from a not so good one

 

Welcome to TW. I hate to say this but right now with the supply low and demand high, you won't even get close to invoice. Many are paying sticker price or above.
If you want to save, wait until mid to late next year.

 

I think waiting until a later date is best. I'm interested in seeing what kind of offers they would give now.

 

They’ll show you the invoice. Don’t believe that’s what they have into it. Trust me, I sold for a short while.

 

You will never see that paper unless u work for them . That’s there way of making money .

 

Im in southern California. So far it looks like no one is willing to negotiate. Most dealers have a $1k markup and a take it or leave it attitude. If that is the case, I may just wait it out till next year.

 

True car can give you some guidance on what people have paid in your area. If you spec it out and don't submit you can still see the histogram.


https://www.truecar.com/prices-new/toyota/tacoma-pricing/?exteriorColorId=1011108&interiorColorId=1011087&optionPreference=popular_configuration&popularConfigurationId=41216330&returnTo=/shop/new/?filterType=brand&makeSlug=toyota&modelSlug=tacoma&updateAttempts=1&userSelectedExteriorColor=true&userSelectedInteriorColor=true&userSelectedStyle=true&viprStyleId=67163&zipcode=95123

Also you can check Cargurus.com. If they have the data it will be displayed farther down the page. Not every car has data - Note: This is a different car than above.

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/new/s...lectedEntity=d290&zip=95123#listing=276990676

When you deal with Toyota, my experience has been don't expect a huge discount off MSRP. Also expect sales people that don't know what they are talking about - So do your own research and come prepared. Buying a year old vehicle is not good deal in my area is about $1500 off MSRP and you might pay more in the end. But check your own area.

Having money doesn't mean shit to them. Everyone has money or they don't. So if you have the cash don't even mention it until you get to finance. Or even let them finance it and write the check on the first payment. It's about points on a board for cars sold.

Both of these methods below you need to know what you are willing to pay and can afford. Be realistic about it.

Don't forget about tax, license and the "extras". Extras are extended warranties, service contracts, accessories, etc... None of the extras are required, but if you want them get them now and add it to your sales contract. It's rare that someone goes back to the dealer and says, "I've reconsidered the <blah blah>." because it's cash up front and not financed.

Make sure you account for any changes in insurance cost too. I bought a $25,000 car that they wanted $2,500/yr for insurance. That was an awakening. I found a new insurance company but it was still expensive and is to this day.

Do not disclose what your number is. You can give a range like I was thinking in the $40K range or around $500 month. If you give them an exact number there is no negotiating. They can meet it and sell you a car today or it's not your real number. The only time you give your final number is when you are stopping the negotiation.

When you achieve your goal you should be prepared to write the check. If you can't reach your affordability goal in any way, then it's not vehicle for you.

Method 1:
It's the most fun, most time consuming and can yield some very good results. But you have to play it through to the end. I saved $6K off my 1st Tacoma (used) and $9K off my Infiniti. Both cases were better than 20% off the asking price.

Go about 2 weeks before the end of the quarter. It will give you enough time to set this up and execute on the last day of the quarter closing. The key is you need know what day that is. Subtly ask around, some one will tell you.

My best advice is if you are serious be interested, let them run the credit check, talk numbers and bring your check book. Seriously look at the deal and walk away, tell them you're nervous and it's a lot of money. Maybe you need to talk with your other half or something... If they chase you out the door telling you let's make a deal you've got them. Do not cave at this point.

Make sure they have your contact info and agree for them to call you in a few days - Don't ask them to call you, make them approach you. Tell them it's a lot of money and you need to think about it. If they said they would call on Sat and they call you on Weds. Tell them, "Thanks for your call but it's not Sat yet. Please call me then." and hang up.

The more you wait the better deal they will make. Keep the fire light and burning. They need to believe you are interested and can do the deal.

If you walk out and they don't follow up with you, go to a different dealer because they scum don't want to sell a car. You are putting your faith and trust in not only the Toyota name but the integrity of the dealer. This is a bit financial commitment for you and they need to understand that. Make them work for it just a bit.

At some point, they will call you and be close to your number. Then you can tell them what you want and if they can do that you will come down now and do the deal. But be late for the appointment. Tell them you're tied up at you mom's house something and will be there just before closing.

Remember - take your time, you are in control and you do not NEED a car.

Method 2:
Talk with the internet or fleet manager. This is the fastest method and has very little BS involved. They sell cars not a life style, so it's about moving inventory.

Usually on the website there is a contact sheet. Look for the person with that title and contact them. Or you can call and ask for the internet manager. If you can get a higher level (manager or director) person, the less BS you will have. Tell them what you want and they will give you a quote like any other goods. They usually cut to the chase faster because it's an open bid and there is nothing that prevents you from going around the corner and getting another quote.

There will be a little bit of room in there but not much. So don't try to work them over too hard, because they don't have the time to deal with it, will get frustrated and they will walk away.

This is what I did for the 4runner and saved a bit over 10% and got it that day. Of course COVID helped, because they normally sell 25 cars a day and had been shut down for 3 weeks at that point. I also did this with an Audi and saved about %6, which is good because Audi just says "Nein, das ist kein amerikanisches Stück Scheiße. Es ist deutsch! Du bist ein kapitalistisches Schwein hund!" a lot.

Mixing Method 1 and Method 2 doesn't work because you will just piss off the internet/fleet manager and they will cut you loose. Too much BS for them.

Best of luck with your car buying adventure!

 

A little far from me in New England, but others could probably at least help with suggestions.

Don't be afraid to look at a prior year model if you can find any, they could be discounted.

 

Invoice doesn't necessarily mean what the dealer actually ends up paying Toyota.
There may be dealer incentives and other revenue kickbacks available to the dealer.
Those won't be reflected on the invoice.

 

Hate to change the subject, but...damn. I hope I never pay that much for car insurance.

 

Check out this YouTube site:

https://www.youtube.com/c/KevinHunter/videos

There are a lot of very good videos about buying vehicles. He does address "invoice" pricing, and as mentioned, dealerships pay less than invoice for the vehicles they sell.

 

Yah, and that with home owners, multi car etc...

It's an Integra Type-R. Apparently it's in the same insurance group as a Dodge Viper. Who knew a 195HP 1.8l 4 cylinder Japanese car cold compete with a V-10 American Super car, for insurance rates. It was very popular to steal when it was new; although, I'm sure a chop shop wouldn't pass it up now. With the Viper they were very popular to wreck.

Either way the insurance companies bought a lot of them.

 

I've worked with many dealers since 2010, I've bought cars with no salesmen directly off the lot.

I have 100% never seen true invoice on a car. Only on used cars have I seen the true cost.

If they tell a guy off the street invoice. Its a lie.