TRD Sport DCSB MT - backing the trailer / clutch issue

So, I'm admittedly a little bit new to the travel trailer scene. Bought a single axle Forest River Platinum FSX a while back. It's 3400 dry, and I figure close to 4200 when fully loaded. We normally tow behind my wife's LX 570, which does great with it.

I've pulled it behind the Taco twice now and was generally pretty impressed that it exceeded my expectations on all levels, except one. When I go to back it up (manual transmission), if I am going up any sort of incline, the clutch smells like I've never driven a manual before. I've tried it with the clutch start cancel in both positions, same result. Tried it in 4 high, same result. Tried it in 4 low, it was MUCH worse.

Has anyone else experienced similar? Am I doing something wrong? Would appreciate any thoughts (other than to buy a bigger truck, I get that part, and may do that a year or two down the road when life allows for it).

Thanks so much.

 

This truck has a rather high gear ratio for reverse. 3.33 in reverse, compared to first gear which is 3.98. There is a mod available for purchase called 2Lo that allows you engage your 4Lo transfer case without locking your front wheels.

 

I don't get the part where 4lo made it worse? Was it tested when the clutch was already burnt?

 

Maybe his clutch was glazed and 4Lo was too much torque for the hot clutch. Or his wheels were binding in a turn.

 

Yeah, I'd look into the 2lo mod. There was something else that made the 4lo appear worse.

 

yeah specter is referring to this https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-2wd-low-range-for-the-3rd-gen-tacoma.614743/

he's also beginning development of a new enhanced version. but in your case the 2LM is not complete, it uses your stock low gearing, just frees up the front wheels to steer easily, which may or may not be a solution for you. these clutches like to burn with lots of feathering. but combining the 2LM with a higher performance clutch may help. if you are having difficulty with well-controlled feathering, you may benefit from the ADM to clean up your ability to detect and work with the bite point. i still find the stock clutch pretty 'meh' under load.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mt-accumulator-delete-mod-adm-and-bs-thread.568303/

 

Why is feathering bad for these clutches? Is it just the slipping that occurs when engaging and reengaging?

 

i didn't say it's bad. but the stock clutch isn't super strong. it will last forever if you treat it right, but feathering a lot and especially under load will eat it right up and stink up the neighborhood in the process. 2LM helps you avoid feathering at low speed, or at least it can.

the ADM may be significant here, because it allows you to be right in touch with what's happening in terms of clutch engagement. the accumulator numbs it all so much you won't fully know what's going on via feel through the pedal. you'll be figuring it largely through truck movement and smell. yikes. MT trucks should do the ADM if you are an engaged MT driver whether you tow, haul, or not. 0.02

 

So education time.

Reverse is always the lowest gear, but this doesnt always mean the most torque.

Due to the hypoid bevel design, which is used to keep the axle quiet and more face contact; its offset to the bottom. This is ideal for forward gears.

When reversing it's not ideal. It has work with more load. So it takes more effort to move backwards.



This means reversing into driveways is hard for a reason.

 

question for you..
is it true that R & 1st are straight gears inside the tranny, and if so does that compensate much for what you're describing? i don't know the internals but both sound like straight cut gears to me although i could be wrong.

 

They aren't straight but they are closer to straight than the rest, which is why you can hear them, especially reverse. They both suffer the highest torque load and heat so they need to be stronger.

 

thanks. so it doesn't really compensate for the hypoid diff gears as it were, but does provide more strength just in the trans? i think my mind stops wrapping around this beyond 2 stages of gears.

 

They also dont have to worry about noise levels in 1st and reverse so strength is a priority.

I can't remember my theory as well as I used to, but you want less axial load when dealing with massive torque loads of 1st and reverse, so a straighter gear means less outwards force. But I may be spewing bullshit.

 

Thanks for all the replies (and the education). How difficult is it to install the ADM? I'm not in love with the accumulator anyways...

 

infos..
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mt-accumulator-delete-mod-adm-and-bs-thread.568303/

 

This fo-sho.

 

2LO mod is a good option. I don't have it as my reversing uphill is minimal (well, it is every time I park it where it's stored) but being gravel I am good using 4LO. I find it solves all my issues. I'm straighten out the rig first and take it slow; no clutch issues.

 

I’ve done the 2Lo mod on my MT truck. (DIY, not with the kit mentioned here) I use it all the time while backing up/ towing. (Double axle dump trailer loaded with firewood)
I couldn’t be without it. Installing it was a bit of an experience but not overly difficult, just a bit nerve wracking!

 

when I tow with mine I turn all the orc and lsd off and it still will make that smell Evan on up hill I think its cuz the raves are so low or the fly wheel is so small cuz I tow a lot and I get the clutch to burn a little only on super steep hills like in Seattle