HYPER FLASH WTF!!

Does anyone make a programable canbus decoder? For instance you could plug it in line and program the wattage and ohms that are needed to be replaced? If not there’s someone’s million dollar idea!! Not mine of course I’m a carpenter.

 

When i get home I'll convert watts to ohms and can tell you what resistance you should need to mimic the factory lights.

Or you can get an ohms law calculator on your phone and do it yourself

 

yeah just let me know. Thank you. I’d love to just have to wire two resistors per side and be done.

 

I’m confused on why this is so complicated. You can calculate the exact Ohms, watts, whatever, but it’s pointless. You have 4 turn signals, if you’re getting hyperflashing, install 4 resistors. You can buy 4 for less than $20. The time you’re taking to figure out the minimum number of resistors needed is worth more than $20.

 

Considering I’ve bought and installed 6 already with no fix, the time figuring it out IS worth it.

 

What kind of LED bulbs did you install? If they were cheap Chinese ones from Amazon than maybe a replacement with quality VLEDs or comparable would help. I have @MESO TTL1 in the rear and the VLED V6 Triton in the front. I’m using VLED resistors in the front with their bulbs and don’t have hyper flash issues.

 

ok looks like the original lights should be around 5-6 ohms each. (you can verify this with a multimeter on OHMS setting)

so you would need a resistor of 5-6 ohms on each light to mimic the factory load.

a quick search brings these up.

$12 Zento Deals 4 Pieces of 6 Ohm 50W LED Load Resistors – Fix The Flickering LED Turn Signal Light or LED License Plate Lights or DRL (4 Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/Zento-Deals-...ocphy=1021146&hvtargid=pla-568827705785&psc=1

you said you installed resistors already, you said they are 50w but what resistance are they?

in this instance the wattage refers to their maximum. but wattage, amperage, etc is dependent on supply voltage and resistance.

Your supply voltage is 12 (for reference sake, yes i know when running its around 13.7) so you will never reach 50w (31 ish is what you will get). they are just sized that way so they can dissipate the heat without burning up (hints the heat sink)

I do not know how the lights are wired into the system. but if you install one 6 ohm resistor on each corner that you supplied with an led, it should work.

trying to overcome this with only a resistor in the rear would depend on how its wired.

if they were wired in series with each other then losing one bulb would make the other stop working, so its not that way.

wired in parallel would require a 3 ohm resistor, but would need to be a higher wattage as 50w would be pushed to their max, so 75-100w

or they could be wired individually in which case you would be required to put one on each corner. (i would suggest this since i dont know)

 

You do not need a resistor at every bulb. 1 resister per flasher circuit (left and right) is plenty. When I had resistors, I put 1 in for the left and 1 in for the right, each behind the tail light housing.

In the end, I ended up putting in enough LEDs that the current load got back to within the normal range and would no longer hyperflash without resistors. That was turn signals in the front, MESO Ultimate mirror turn signals (v4), and MESO stage 2 tail lights.

I did a breakdown of the resistor values I tested with in the following post for those turn signals: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ultimate-led-turn-signals.486423/page-445#post-20549534