Irrelevance

Did you connect the Tekonsha harness to the Tacoma harness? The pic I posted is looking INTO the connector not looking at the wires from behind the connector...
Maybe they assembled it incorrectly at the sweat factory...

 

Yes, and verified with multi-meter when confirming that my $1 ebay Relays (he says they were brand new) work properly (the one installed seems to switch perfectly with ignition so I have no complaints).

I spent at least 30 minutes double-checking myself but yeah, after removing all of the pins and moving blue to where black was originally, it's correctly +12v when plugged in.

It's not like color really matters on a harness, all it has to do is connect the right pins and transfer current. I just found it unexpected that a Tacoma-specific harness would use the same colors but swap them. Then again I don't think the red matches OEM purple, though the white is pretty close to the white/black ground pin. Sometimes you just shrug and say "ok".

 

Do you have the Electric Tow Brake Module? Verify if it has any "special" tag that shows input and output on the small black connector to it...

 

This was the harness I purchased:

$17 Tekonsha Trailer Brake Controller Harness, Compatible with Select Toyota Tacoma, Tundra

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781KTCPT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cross referencing with your diagram and the posted photo right now...

 

So, since you confirmed it's looking into the face of the connector, the harness is male pins so 11596 which should be blue on the left and black on the right. The Amazon photos aren't definitive but they do show blue wire to the right of black wire while looking at the face of the connector.

 

Still catching up, but I could never pass this up...

 

Behind on mods. Spent last week driving Dallas to Baton Rouge to Dallas to Seattle to help my brother in law purchase a Ram 5500 for his growing horse transport business. Picked up my USB sockets which had to be shipped to his place because of Cali prop 65. While I was gone my 10 gauge GLX wire arrived along with my 8-10 gauge ring terminals so I believe I have 100% of the parts I need to finish up the center console usb power from trailer brake controller. The grounding for the 3xUSB is the only grey area remaining but I can probably throw 3 ring terminals under the most accessible bolt for now. I did receive a small ground bus bar I had ordered but not sure I want to use it.

Looking forward to having cupholders again.

Aside from that, I'm stuck waiting on bullet connectors I ordered weeks ago to finish the overhead garage switch illumination. Might switch to spade lugs if it goes too much longer.

The switchpros 9100, seat heaters, Clazzio or Katzkin, and arb twin are likely all going to be 2021 projects to spread out the costs.

November will be OEM LED headlight install time.

Perhaps December to install the amps, subs, door speakers, and sound deadening.

Still need to figure out if I'm doing more bedside molle, still hunting for the best possible deal on the header rail with absolutely no intended use for it, and still a little bit on the fence about total tail v1 vs wait for v2 with a lean towards wait.

No rush at all on new tires since I'm driving so little.

If I get the switchpros going and swap in the MESO driver side cubby I will have 2 new small switch blanks on the drivers side. I could use one for the drivers seat heater and move the Qi switch there too, then leave the usb and passenger seat heater in the center. Or I could do both seat heaters in the center and just shove the Qi and usb inside the dash and zip tie 'em up. Switchpros would definitely be the guy to switch the arb and any aux lighting so I'm trying to find some purpose for the new switch spots.

Still bleach bathing the wheel center cap logos, they are pretty close to done though, then I have to decide if I'm painting them red or black or mgm or something else.

 

Got the itch and had to scratch it last night.

1. 3rd and final USB power socket installed. Braided heat shrink harness plus 1/2” loom to protect it from the parking brake. Did final wire routing, ring terminals and heat shrink.

2. Starting to finalize the plan the bus bar location. More on that next time.

3. Ran 10 gauge red wire from kick panel to cup holder location with 1/4” loom.

4 Mounted blue sea maxi fuse block and connected ring terminals.

I'm contemplating switching to a

6 Circuit Fuse Block W/Negative Bus - JOYHO ATC/ATO 6-Way Fuse Box with Ground, with Negative Bus & Protection Cover, Bolt Connect Terminals, 70 pcs Stick Label, for Vehicle Car Boat Marine Auto

6 circuit fuse block with integrated ground bus to simplify my grounds but the reviews have me questioning that option. I have searched and searched and don't see an ultra compact ground bar which would fit this space nicely other than the one I have. So I might just attach that one of the metal strut and call it a day.

 

OK, I think I’m done. Functional test is a pass. Multi-meter tests all pass. Seat heater install tentatively planned for 2021 along with Clazzio or Katzkin. For now I think I can button her up and get my cup holders back.

@caribe makaira do you see any remaining concerns other than what you have mentioned before regarding location of items?

 

None on location. Don't spill any liquid though.
I do see that the fuse cover does not seem to insulate the positive feed.

 

Thanks for the QC check. I have a black rubber cap I can push onto the post which will give a little bit of extra protection from an accidental touch, that's a good idea.

It would be somewhat unusual that I would be tinkering in this spot with the ignition on and not exercising some basic caution.

I'll double-check the inside of my cupholder trim piece, particularly at the shift boot edge. I bet I can rig up some extra protection against spills. Maybe a few of those cocktail drink umbrellas?

Fuse Block product info page

 

Maybe a drain hose to the outside with a check valve. Aircraft style...

 

Now that I have my low power setup finished, I thought I’d dip back into the high current power distribution. This feed will serve two amps via 100amp circuit breaker and the yet to be purchased ARB twin in the driver side cubby via 60 amp circuit breaker. Since I had space I threw in an old capacitor. I sure hope I remember to use a resistor to charge it. I wonder if it still works after 20 years of doing nothing. Maybe it’ll blow up when I hook it up.

I think my next step is to get this mounted and get a measurement for the 1/0 gauge cable I need to run to the battery and plot out my ground. Then I’ll yank it again, route 4 gauge to the cab for the amps, and route another 4 gauge to the bedside cubby for the compressor. Seems highly likely I’m going to order up some heavy cable soon.

Also working on a play structure for the boys. I should be able to cement in the two near posts tomorrow.

 

You also adding a HALON system, just in case?

 

Got the MESO Total Tail Stage 1 in today. It’s pretty. Passenger turn signal hyper flashes when in reverse as others have noticed. I like it. Video.

Also got my overhead console T harness installed to tap dimmed illumination for my garage door switches. Thanks to @Puppypunter for that. I probably should confirm all 3 of the traction control switches work properly at some point (I.e make sure I didn’t swap any pins.

Last, I got started on a T harness to feed door speakers from the amplifiers. I think next step there is to purchase cable and I’m not sure if I want to go GLX, TLX, or audio speaker cable.




Oh, and the 5th post for the play structure is in the ground.

 

Coming along nicely, but don’t you think the wife will realize you’re missing a kid?

 

It looks like tonight is headlight night.

 

It got done. Had trouble with the bumper (minor scrape from prior owner on passenger side and I think they put the red clip all the way through the bumper cover and supporting bracket vs just in the bracket like the drivers side. Also somehow wound up with the headlight inside the metal on drivers side instead of outside. So I had to redo that.

The funny thing is, after doing all that, I’m now pretty confident I could swap another set much more quickly. But a portion of that confidence is baked into the general rule that disassembly of parts is always easier if they have previously been disassembled.

 

If you feel like coming to Denver, I’d be more than happy to let you test that theory