The Fellowship of PNW Tacomas | PDX Area Wheeling

I’m looking into them now. Well more like the last year, but now it’s going to happen.

 

Is there information out there regarding airing down? What my wheels/tires can handle. I used the search function but couldn’t find specific numbers.
I’m on 2020 Tacoma pro wheels and 275/65/16 wildpeaks.

 

I’m sure there is something more scientific out there; but you should be okay down to around 15lbs for slower speed off roading.

 

How comfortable are you with fixing a bead that went out of place?

MFGs have minimums for a reason, so... going beyond that is 'at your own risk'.

https://www.discounttire.com/blog/airing-tires-down and https://www.treadmagazine.com/how-tos/airing-down-and-back/ looks like useful, though.

But the lower you go, the more careful you ought to be about losing a bead.

 

Yeah. My pucker goes way up past 20psi, I normally run at road (30-35) unless I'm starting to slip or other issues.

 

The answer to this question is always yes

 

True!

 

Oregon makes a great set up for an battery operated one.

 

YES!

 

let me know. Live over near the Hillsboro area but travel is always fun

 

Oregon Cordless 16-inch Self-Sharpening Chainsaw with 4.0 Ah Battery and Charger

Oregon Cordless 16" Self-Sharpening Chainsaw with 4.0 Ah Battery and Charger

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NWVS90/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7-MHFbA7Z6DG2

 

Might as well spend the money and get the 6ah battery

 

That’s the one. And what he said

 

Well that makes it spendy

 

less having to recharge...

 

That’s important.

 

Thanks. I’ll read up on this. I was planning on 20 just because I didn’t want to deal with fixing a bead al I’d rather avoid it altogether. Have only seen how to videos.

thanks for the quick answers. @.劉煒 and @Superhulk LB

 

I’m lazy, so 19-20 is about as low as I go. That’s with a 10ply tire. Makes a nice ride and good traction.

 

You'd be surprised how low you can actually go on your pressures when you need to go lower to get unstuck. If you are smart about your driving, and not rely on just generic "settings" that you read about, you can travel on full highway pressures all the way down to just about flat. The limitations are ride quality felt in the cab, required traction, and side loads applied to the tire.

Example:
In sand, I don't care what the tire pressure is for a given tire. My rule of tire deflation works like this. While still on a hard surface (or parked on a piece of plywood, MaxTrax, or even floor mat), measure the distance that the lowest part of the wheel is from the actual ground. Say it is 6". Now, deflate the tire until you have decreased this distance by 25%, so now your rim is 4.5" off the ground. This will increase your foot print by 200% per tire. Depending on what you are loaded down with (or not), the contact patch will be the same, but the pressure may very well be completely different between all 4 tires.

So, if you just pick 20psi for all 4 tires, your tires could effectively all have a different contact patch completely dependant on the weight that the tire is carrying. You may actually need to air down much further in the rear if the truck is completely unloaded. Where as you may have to air down much less if your rear cargo is getting close to or more than what the fronts are seeing.

With that, each tire brand, height, width, and wheel size will give you a completely different contact patch at a given % of deflation than a different tire/wheel combo. So, going with a prescribed "just lower it to 20psi and you're good", may work but won't be as optimal as just taking each of YOUR tires down by rim to ground %. You can experiment with what % you like on various terrain. 25% is my goto for soft sand. 10-15% works for me on washboard roads. I don't rock crawl, but I would guess it could be 20-25%.

 

Never have I had to fix a bead but the lowest I’ve been is 15