Magnuson supercharger install here at down east offroad

It’s roughly 308 at the wheel. It’s also $6565 and not $7K. I’m seeing a max boost of 7.4 psi. I’m happy with my charger. This charger is not for everyone because everyone has different expectations and needs. Good news is if you don’t like the Maggie you have other options for boost. You can go with URD Rotrex or TT’s from OVTune. As a matter of fact there’s like 4 or 5 different boost level options/configurations for OVTunes TT setup. Whatever you choose I’m sure it’ll be a lot of fun when you stomp the skinny pedal.

 

$6700 + tuning time + smaller pulley (more boost) + more fuel (upgrades like pump/injecotrs?) + methanol and now we're rocking and rolling! I'd like to see what this system does at 12-14psi. Wonder what the next weakest link will be hmmm. 350-400 should doable with a few more small upgrades assuming stock components can hold. Anyone cracked one of the bottom ends open to see what we're working with in terms of pistons, main/rod bearing size, stock internal parts composition, crank journals, etc? Just wondering when a rod would be expected to let go or if a piston would call it quits or maybe one of the bearings self destruct? We can't do much if we're rocking cast pistons lol Which... if I had to guess, we probablyhave cast pistons now that I think about it.... shit!

 

By the way this gains way more than 50 HP.
One of the recent installs by another owner gained 83HP. 225 to 308 according to the dyno

 

So really more like 100hp gain at the engine.

 

225 at the wheel to 308 at the wheel (stock vs SC). Not to be confused with measured at the crank (both higher with SC about 370 hp vs sub 300 for stock).

 

Its all based on psi and engine size. A 6.2l v8 on 7 pounds makes 120 to 150 hp. These motors are not powerful and 7 psi will not make a huge 100hp+ bump

 

yet my co-worker with a 3.0 v6 is pushing 600hp with his s/c, sure he's using meth injection to get that but even just on premium gas with no injection he's pushing WAY more than 300 hp!! I felt it.

I'm not sorry that I...and MANY others are TOTALLY unimpressed with 80-90 hp from a 7K S/C!!! It's not 100hp "oh it's only $6565"...you really want to split hairs here!? Jesus come on man...I didn't say anything at first but now I'M getting annoyed. I'll piece together a setup on my own, cent s/c too probably...the mag setup doesn't even utilize an intercooler!

I'm trying to find out if a head swap is needed...since we have a shit integrated "manifold" as opposed to the ls and sc's NORMAL head which can be s/c from factory and where you can actually install a legit header...but no one seems to know. Ls and sc 350 make more power and don't have the integrated pos head/manifold design...wtf yota!?...as far as I can tell. But my 2-day TIS subscription ran out (used it to dl wiring diagrams...yota wiring diagrams make me...well...oh lordy...oh yes...ahem...that) before I could could look into head design and bolt patterns...and those who SUPPOSEDLY know aren't replying to my dm's. Ugh integrated manifolds are so stupid *insert rage face*

I actually plan to do a base dyno soon...then another dyno after ova upgrade...then another after fan delete (engine masters showed a 20hp increase on a chevy 350 going to all electric), then another after intake and exhaust upgrades..etc etc...but feel free to call me a liar till I actually DO that...hell I am calling myself that till I do XD We shall see I guess *shrug...but I'll probably go dual procharger route instead of s/c unless these s/c come down by half...just not worth it honestly

 

Ok I’m not even going to try to decode all of that.

the magnuson unit does have an intercooler.

Also integrated manifolds are pretty legit. Since they are cooled by engine coolant they have really low EGTs and they are by nature much shorter and excellent for turbos and boost response. Also the exhaust temps bring the engine up to Operating temp much faster which reduces engine wear.

The magnuson kit is easily capable of gaining another 100HP by turning up the boost by a smaller pulley, changing the fuel system, and tuning. The kit is a base for lots of cheap mods (if you can tune yourself.) although it is already more than enough for a daily driver with no mods.

this truck already has 11.8:1 compression. You can’t just overboost the heck out of it like a Chevy pushrod engine. You’ve got to lower that dynamic compression with cams to get the boost power you want (so say goodbye to the low end torque). Dual prochargers aren’t going to net you any more power than the ov tune turbo kit.

 

While you're building your "duel procharger" setup that's going to make that'll make less hp than the Magnuson kit anywhere below 6k rpm's be sure to pay the money for a carb certs.

I believe you can lower dynamic compression by adjusting the intake cam retard/advance, but I'm not sure to what extent; no cam Change required.

Two pro chargers would be hilarious, imagine the power loss driving two of them, but why stop there... Just do 6.

 

Which of those mods do u consider cheap upgrades?

 

Pulleys for the TVS 1900 can be had for less than $100
Fuel system upgrade like OVTune sells isn’t too bad either for the power potential it unlocks. Then just add a even smaller pulley and send it.
Tuning will be easy once someone gets a good baseline in vftuner and releases it

 

Why lower compression? Boost and high compression are the new thing. Make the same power with lower boost and keep more of the low end. Tons of boosted 3rd gen coyotes running around making huge power with 12:1 compression.

 

It’s doable with 93+meth or E85 with low advance numbers.
High compression certainly makes off boost performance better too.

The coyote guys start at 11.0:1 but most of the people I know that run 10+ psi have installed pistons with 10:1 and run 93+meth for about 700HP (roughly a 50% increase in power from stock).

I just don’t trust it for longevity. If your IATs get just a smidge too high bye bye 2gr-fks. I’m aiming for 8psi on my magnuson S/C. I’m currently at about 6.5-7psi. I won’t trust any higher for me. 2GR-FKS engines are a lot more pricey to rebuild or replace than a Coyote lol

 

lol "cooled" by 160-170+ F coolant while sitting right on top of the engine. And I'm sorry I used such confusing words like "procharger" and talking about other cars with similar engines throwing into the confusing LS and ES and GS and IS etc etc...XD

Ok, ok I can be an ass

But seriously I get your point and I'm not saying this is a pos setup, and I even agree it's a decent start up...my only REAL point is that it's over priced for what you get and what you end up with...maybe just my personal opinion, I can accept that Just don't look for me to spend nearly 7 grand for this...I didn't think you would though so...meh

 

why would it make less power? not being an ass legit curious as to what you know.

why are two prochargers "hilarious"...it's a common setup...but I only mentioned duals at the end during my "fantasy" paragraph but I DID say that so my bad, still not sure why that's so outrageous to you. Not sure what your hate for prochargers is but whatever. And I don't need carb

 

3rd gens are 12:1 and tons of stock boosted motors running around. But I do agree all out performance is more important to them than longevity. If I were to buy this kit, which I likely won't since this is my DD and already have a supercharged toy, I'd run it stock and be happy.

It has its own cooling circuit so it won't be 170 degrees. 7k is a lot money but I don't think it's unreasonable considering what you get. How much is your overkill dual procharger setup going to cost? Completely unnecessary to cobble a kit together when a TVS 1900 can support more HP than 99% of Tacoma's will ever make. Centrifugal superchargers offer little if any advantage over the TVS. And to top it off you're running a factory style supercharger so it'll be as reliable as possible.

 

Also 170° will cool the heck out of EGTs in a integrated manifold. The EGTs are around 750°F +/- 250
It’s delta T that matters for heat transfer.

 

mention dual prochargers once in a thread lol, that was me daydreaming, one should do the trick. Just my personal preference to not have the cooler right on top of the engine or having coolant running through, I can't give stats to justify that view, it's just my opinion, it obviously works just not my preference.

I've seen complete kits for 4k, should be able to piece one together for cheaper though...maybe...maybe not, won't know till I try. I'm a diy'er really, it's always cost me less money but I've never attempted this so I could easily be wrong on cost for pieced together build

Ah yes...very valid point, thanks

 

Preach!

Before you guys start boosting into infinity you guys may want to work on opening the motor up first. Namely your garbage exhaust system you guys have from the factory. A good flowing Y pipe will be critical, if you want the most out of your airflow just know that the cats are incredibly restrictive and are easily leaving 10 HP off the table per set of two. The same can be said about your primaries.

Finally, I've said it before, and I'll say it again. Check your TVS1900 compressor map!!! You guys will be doing a disservice if you guys are getting those things overly hot and just blindly turning up the boost. You want to stay within the blowers sweet spot. If you want to educate yourselves, type in "adiabatic efficiency" into your Google search bar.

Just remember if nothing else. Boost is just a measurement of your engine restriction. So the more free flowing it is the more boost will drop, which is a good thing. At that point you can start changing pulleys to make up for the boost that you dropped.

 

All good valid points to make. Fortunately, the TVS1900 has room to grow... Think of it as an ultra efficient MP116. We are running 10k RPM at redline while producing 7+ PSI.