New England B.S. Thread

I tried the Hikari’s and went back to high performance halogen. Hikari plastic tabs actually broke as I was taking them out; offered no follow-up support.

 

Bingo.

The people who design them don't see beyond the assembly line, so if it saves 1/10th a second or half a penny it's great..

 

Nope, but i’ll give it a read. I understand foreground light and throw, that’s why I ditched my 30” light bar in favor of Hyperspot pods. I think it really has a lot to do with the housing you put them in also. Dropping any old LED into a halogen housing isn’t always going to yield good results, regardless of how bright the LED itself is. If you can’t get light where you need it, it’s useless. The LED kit I bought for the Ford was tested specifically in the Ford housing and does a great job mimicking the OEM light pattern, just brighter. For general, on the road use, I think LEDs have Halogens licked, you just need the right LED for the housing (talking general reflector housings, projectors are their own animal).

Edit: which thread are you referring to? Is it this one?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/why-leds-should-not-be-run-in-halogen-reflectors.454371/
I started reading the original post and, as far as i’m concerned, there’s a lot wrong with it and a pretty clear bias. If it gets better, let me know and i’ll start reading from the bottom up.
Edit again, I'll eat crow a bit here, that thread and the ones linked in there have a lot of great info, guy did a lot of work. That said, I still think the right LEDs are a good option. His ultimate setup was neat but introduced a whole new harness into the mix. The lifespan of LED over halogen is a big perk for me also, especially on a vehicle where they're a pain to swap.

 

what’s this vent called for my furnace? I’m wondering if I should replace it before I start using my furnace regularly this winter. I’ve bleed the air out a couple times over last two years and it still seems like I get noisy pipes. Thoughts? It looks like it comes off pretty easily-ish with a couple large crescent wrenches and some heat. Pretty sure I’ll need to drain the system before I begin

 

That’s the pressure relief for the expansion tank. Looks messy.
We just got a new furnace and they replaced the tank and valve on top of the fitting.

 

thats an air separator. Gotta watch those cause if you continually bleed the system there’s a chance the float will stick open and you’ll leak water. You only need to replace it if the float (Internally it’s wire mesh) is all messed up and it won’t bleed the air out.

so depending how you have the heating runs done. I’m assuming you have a two story home, the returns from the second floor should have a bleeder 90 on them. Crack the bleeder screw and it’ll help purge the air.

Everyone has a slightly different heating system. Mine used zone valves for the feed and I have drain tees on the returns. My second floor has a drain 90 and I one had to purge it once during the initial install.
I did have to replace my hot water tank so had to re bleed that and the air separator ended up sticking open. Couple taps with a ball pen hammer got it to settle back down

 

That set up looks real simple to allow easy changing of your tank or release valve. Wish mine was

 

I have zone valves for each floor and I also have a drain tee ( I think) . Zone valves are Honeywell and they (motors) were both replaced in last two Years.



these two are in the same run that belong to the first floor. This is where I hear the noises with pipes . That looks like a bleeder tee ( I think) . Is this easy to do? Furnace running or no?

Gotta run I’ll check back later , thanks

 

Mine is even better. My boiler guy added a ball valve directly on top of the expansion tank when he replaced it this year. He said that isolates it so it can be replaced without possibly needing to bleed the system in the future.

 

yeah so those are bleeder tees. So the way to do it is while the zone is running crack open the bleeder screw. You leave them open until water starts coming out.

If you open them while the zone valve is closed you won’t actually bleed the loop but make it worse by putting an air pocket into it

 

That's a Spirotherm vent. How often you should replace them depends a lot on your water quality. Fortunately, they're also serviceable, so if your valve is sticking open or closed a lot of times you can just disassemble and clean it.
The whole top piece unscrews, so you can depressurize your system and take that apart with a pair of pipe wrenches to see what sort of condition it's in. Mine was sticking open a couple of years ago and dribbling water down onto my pressure tank, so I took it apart. The insides were still in good shape, so I soaked in white vinegar for a couple of days to get the lime scale out (I have to do the same thing with our shower head about once a year) and then reassembled it and it's been working fine ever since.

But if you take it apart and it looks like this...just get a new one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptEKP23nXSk

Edit-
You can buy individual parts for them online, as well. If you have to replace it, just replace the top unit. No point in paying the extra $50-60 for the base, since it's literally just a brass pipe fitting.

 

I’m really impressed by that . Stop the water flow at that point and do the work with no issues.

 

Thanks so much for that

 

Again , I’m happy I asked this question, thanks

 

Hey guys, Lots of you weld and build fancy things.

I'd like to submit some work for bid

I have a huge jade plant, with container and all its probably 1-150 lbs. I have had an impossible time finding a platform that can handle it. I've had 3-4 break on me. Metal, plastic, moon rock, nothing seems to be able to stand it. The big issue is it needs to move 2-3 times a year inside and out, and the casters snap off or the thing deforms.


What I want:

A 2x2 HD metal frame with 4 casters, one each corner. This should withstand 200+ lbs as the plant will get thicker and I might give it an even larger home in the future. The frame should also be able to hold some 2x4's so I can have a platform. OR a solid steel sheet that could hold it welded to it works as well.

I am willing to pay a good price for the supplies and labor, I've already wasted a lot of money on shitty ones and I want a "buy once, cry once" solution.

If you are capable and interested, please let me know, I want this thing ASAP.

 

Kind of tacky looking, but have you tried a furniture dolly?

 

I spent $10 at Lowes yesterday to buy stuff to make one of those rolling log over the bucket of water mousetraps. Set up my Ring camera to watch it.
I got 3 mice last night!
All with regular snap traps.

 

That could work, at this point form is well behind functions in my concern list.


Edit: I do like the idea of custom made though, this plant was a cutting I got as a wedding gift and I have grown attached to her. It’s original mother plant is from the Rockefeller’s or something and over 100 years old. My cousin is a gardener and got it for me.

 

Lots of options, but I have a wood one that I've used for tons of stuff. The casters kind of suck over rough terrain though.. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Storage-Organization-Moving-Supplies-Dollies/N-5yc1vZchn8

 

Can you pm me a pic of that ball valve over your expansion tank? Thanks