2020 truck immobilized--Toyota cannot locate source of problem

stumbling at a very low rpm would result in low oil pressure and the light would come on?

 

Quite true. I do know that it has a different feel than vacuum boosted systems.

This is where I would try touching the terminals. It seems to fix odd electrical stuff and has proven its worth in the past.


https://itstillruns.com/disconnect-car-battery-reset-computer-4963429.html

 

Start your lemon countdown.

 

If that is a question, the answer is yes.

In the bikes and MT cars / trucks with the proper dash lights, it is possible to get low oil pressure and low alternator current lights just prior to a stall. At that level, sometimes the engine can be kept alive and sometimes a stall.

 

Sorry I didn't have time to read replies, but trying to help here, are you sure parking brake isn't sticking? Sounds like rust temporarily freezing them is common.

 

But he shuts the key off and it goes normal after restarting, so it can't be the handbrake.

 

I am afraid that I do not know that. The second time that it happened was not as much a surprise as the first time, but I had traffic backed up and people were soon on their horns. My objective was to just get out of the way. My wife says that the next time, I need to say the hell with traffic and get out my camera and at least document what is being displayed on the dash.....

 

I don't need exact numbers, just wondering if the truck continued at idle or if the RPMs dropped. It's a big clue as to what could be the cause.

 

I was just reading this thread thinking, I need a video to even comprehend the sequence of events here you are describing. So my hat off to the wife...

 

I got this picture in my head....
Sitting in traffic. Let off the clutch and lightly press the gas. the truck doesn't move forward. If they gas was pressed then rpms should elevate until clutch grabs.
The question remains... were rpms going up as the clutch was released and did the rpms reduce after the release, when its supposed to grab.
If not enough rpms are there to over come the the stationary position, the truck should stall. Warning lights displayed.

 

That is the picture that I am getting, as if the rear brakes are erroneously engaged by the booster. The weird one is that it seems to only be in 1st gear, not 2nd or 3rd?


It might be worth looking at the ABS harnesses to the wheel hubs? Just to be sure that one isn't damaged.

 

I am thinking it has something to do with the clutch and the accumulator thingy. Some reason it not get the signal the clutch is fully engaged.

 

Maybe the collision system is malfunctioning and causing the truck to brake on its own thinking there is a collision about to happen . Anything is possible with all the technology these day’s . Best of luck .

 

The accumulator needs to die, but it is a purely mechanical thing. A metallic disk and square ring used both as a seal and a spring.


Speaking of the clutch, and I do not know how, but the limit switches might be out of adjustment? That one is a bit out there.


Also, just to note, HA on the Sport does not engage with the engine off and is let go when the ECU senses throttle input. It is independent of the clutch as far as I can tell. Just adding some info here even though the OR and Pro are very different.

 

Ok.

 

i can't visualize this either, and how the engine experiences load or not relative to clutch movement, assuming there actually is any. this is a huge potential headache with the dealer's replication of the problem. i would buy a cheap go-pro or similar, POV at the driver's inputs & gauges, and leave it running at all times the truck is used.

 

I had this going down hill once