Ujoints? 2.7L RWD

Hi everyone. Wondering is there a good write up on here for 2nd gen ujoints?
My truck has a real bad vibration, and i confirmed the front most ujoint is completely butchered.
Also when in for frame replacement Toyota noted "FRONT UNIVERAL JOINT SEPERATED AND DAMAGE TO DRIVE SHAFT"

Do you think the driveshaft could actually be damaged by a bad ujoint? I supposed the "yoke"" could get wallowed out but how could they determine that without taking it apart?
I never noticed the vibration before i dropped it off for the frame so its not like I drove for years with it damaged.

The other two ujoints are still tight however they look pretty rusted. The middle one the rubber seal is cracked a bit. Do you think its in my best interest to replace all 3? Or should I leave them?

As far as replacement ujoints should I go OEM or is there an aftermarket company that makes them for Toyota?

Finally how can I tell if the carrier bearing needs replacing? Or should I just do it anyways? And should I go OEM for carrier bearing?

I am kind of thinking I will just do all 3 ujoints and the carrier bearing.

Random video I took of my truck ----> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1_8blkJZxA&ab_channel=turdsandwicher

Thanks guys

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNYIwZONXF8&ab_channel=turdsandwicher

Another video. I took this the other day was trying to show the vibration/figure out what was causing it. I forgot the dealer said Ujoints were bad. HOWEVER... Can you guys hear the "whining" noise? Do you think it could be the carrier bearing? I know its not the best video. Or could the alternator make a whining noise? Do alternators whine? A mechanic told me about a year ago it needed an alternator and I also confirmed it did with a few tests. It starts and runs fine so I decided to let the alternator slide.

 

Yeah those U joints are shot. I would replace the carrier bearing as well. As for the whine, hard to tell from video. Yes your alternator can whine like that, as can your a/c compressor, belt tensioner/ pullies. With that much rust and wear on the u-joints I'd be looking over everything.

 

Yeah, you have a 14 year old truck with the original u-joints? Just do them all while you have the driveshaft dropped. Either whatever the dealer sells or similiar Dana/Spicer u-joint will be fine.

 

Damn--now I watch the video. Yeah, I'd be spending a ton of time crawling under that thing. U-joints are GONE!

 

I know I had at least one changed 5plus years ago. Pretty sure the front so that makes the back two OEM i believe. IDK why fix if its lasted this long haha. I think Ill have a better idea once I remove the driveshaft.

Do you guys think the drive shaft is damaged?

 

No idea, but if I was in a similiar situation, I would definitely do all 3 u-joints and probably do the carrier bearing just for GP. The driveshaft is a simple tube-hard to screw up unless you hit something or whatever.

Considering the rust you have, this won't be a quick fix. Simple-yes-quick-nope. I would start soaking things now in MMO or similiar penetrating oil. Don't be surprised if it takes you a couple days and a heat wrench to completely replace.

On your next truck I recommend doing rust mitigation each year as you're obviously living in a state which salts the roads. I'm trying Woolwax this year.

 

Yeah I learned my lesson honestly. This was my first car. New truck has been getting undercoated. HEY the first one should be easy. Its already loose! I was planning to just use a couple sockets and hammer. What do you think?

 

Driveshaft is out. Is there any way to add pictures on here on mobile?

 

OK...... Definitely replace all U-joints and the carrier bearing.

Quit monkeying about before you really FUBAR things. Take the driveshaft to a Driveshaft Repair shop. Let them do the work. They will have all the parts, tools, presses needed.

Also, if this is a 4WD, then the front driveshaft should have the same service.

 

Id like to do it myself. I'm aware I could take it to a shop.

 

Heres where I'm at. Cant get the stupid thing out.

 

It has been a long time since I worked a DS, but I think you are trying to remove the outer race of the bearing.

IIRC, this needs to be PULLED out versus DRIVEN in. That race could be seized to the yoke.

Good Luck.

I still urge a Driveshaft Repair shop.

 

I got the first one out IDK if I wanna mess with the others. It was a PITA!!!

 

A big shop press is really what you need here. Getting them out is one thing, getting the new ones in lined up perfectly is another.

I was in the same boat as you last year, figured I'd save a few bucks and do it myself. Got the old ones out, and went to put the new ones in and just mangled it all. Ended up dropping it off at an independent shop. Guy totally took apart, cleaned, re-lubed slip yoke and coated the shaft in por-15. He told me it was also out of balance, so I had him rebalance it too. When I got it back on I couldn't believe the difference. He charged me $175 for everything, but if I just wanted the u joints it would have been around $80 including parts.

 

Meh you guys might be on to something. Would be nice to have it balanced. I'll call around but around here everything gets expensive fast it seems.

Idk but to me the installation seems like the easy part.

 

What do you guys think of "Precesion Moog" ujoints? $40 each locally vs Toyota $123 each locally.

Also OEM carrier bearing is $333 plus tax. So I'm going to leave it.

 

If the carrier bearing is shot........then it needs replacing.

Have you gone to the driveshaft shop? They could probably handle the carrier bearing also.

 

carrier is fine. I have the ujoints out so just need to get the news ones now. Didn't think they would cost so much at toyota.

 

Okay I still have my driveshaft out haha. Installing the new ujoints.... these ones are supposed to be greasable. I am confused because that small screw is what came with it. I thought it would come with your regular ass looking grease zerk...

Any ideas?