Crappy front brakes

I have a 2017 TRD Sport with the 6 ft box with approximately 30,000 kms on it. Yes, that's all. I am a former trucker and my braking habits are such that brakes typically last me well over 100,000kms. With this Tacoma though, the rotors are already warped at 30k. Unbelievable. You probably think that I'm one of those idiots racing up to a light, then pin the brakes. Not so. I start slowing down far enough in advance that those idiots get impatient and pass me just to get ahead of me while waiting for the light to change. I actually gear down as well.
Does anybody else have this same problem? I have NEVER before had to redo the brakes while still under bumper to bumper warranty...what's up with Toyota?

 

Rotors don't warp per say, they over heat and get hot spots or pad material embedded. Rust is also another possibility, we see lots of rust build up during the corona downtime.

To keep them lasting longer, make sure to have the rear brakes serviced and adjusted. After long or hard braking, keep the foot pressure light at the red light and let them cool off before parking.

 

I’m at 108k miles on original brakes...

 

Both 2nd and 3rd gen Tacomas have undersized front brakes for towing. I have replaced my front pads and rotors several times in 10 yrs towing a 3500 lb trailer, 3500 lb jet boat, sxs/trailer. For various reasons, poor quality pads, warped rotors, worn pads couple times, etc. And I am not hard on my equipment, I gear down on hills, don't race up to stops. etc. I would recommend larger front brakes for towing with a Tacoma they would last much longer and dissipate heat much better. The rear Drum brakes are fine as is. I replaced the rear shoes at over 100K, fronts take the brunt of stopping while towing. Also replacing the front brake lines with braid steel lines would improve stopping ability. I havn't done it yet. But might eventually if I don't buy a new two rig soon.

 

My 2016 had "warped rotors" at 45k per the dealer. I bought the truck with 34k on it. I would get shaking between 25-15mph while braking(bought it like this). Put new rotors and pads, did the rear brakes too and here I am at 66k with the same issue, it came back after about 10k miles. I want to upgrade my rotors next time. I don't brake hard and have never had an issue with brakes on any other rig.

 

Ok, I thought I was crazy at 85k miles on original brake pads and rotors and still with ~5-6mm of pads left. Your post makes me feel a little better about keeping them going for another 5k miles.

 

Front brakes do 70% (+/-) of the breaking. They will always wear out faster then the rears. On the truck I had just before (2002 TRD Off Toad) my current truck had well over 200k miles on it when I traded it in. Changed the front breaks maybe 3 times while I owned it. Still had the original rear breaks when I traded it in.

 

~60k. Original rotors. Probably the driver

 

this is from a couple weeks ago


I’ve also got about 15k miles of towing

 

Mine look very similar. It’s like they’ve stopped wearing. Every time I check at 5k tire rotations they are about the same. I may change pads since I’ve got a new set and they’ve been sitting on a shelf in my garage for a year.

 

Upgrade to power stops. You’ll be happy you did!

 

I just did my 30,000 mile maintenance. When I rotated my tires, I checked the brakes. They look really good.

 

When you get new rotors I would suggest making sure whoever is installing your wheels clean all of the mounting surfaces and ensure the lug nuts are torqued correctly. Some service Bay folks use the amount of ugga duggas on their impact to measure lug nut torque and that's probably not the best.

 

nope

 

I will not insult your or any other respondents mechanical intelligence. I see you are in BC Canada where I will would take a guess they use some sort of road treatment in winter.
Cheap rotors do not warp...per se. The webs between the inner and outer braking surfaces corrode and eventually under the pressure of "normal braking" weaken and collapse allowing the two braking surfaces to be pushed inward thus making a warp pedal feeling when braking.

Someone in Arizona would not have this corrosion issue, thus their brake rotors could last much longer than a rust belt operator.
Chalk it up to the environment you live in and cheaply made components.

 

Do this and never look back.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/brake-upgrade-stoptech-rotors-trd-performance-pads.523829/

 

Interesting article from Bendix...who should know a thing or two about brake rotors...

https://www.bendix.com.au/bendix-news/brake-shudder-explained-and-how-fix-it

 

Oh there sure is.
Towards the bottom

 

I will correct my bubbles vision of the article...thx...

 

Except for the last paragraph:

"Also, a small detail but one worth paying attention to is your wheel nuts. Torqueing down your wheel nuts evenly and to manufacturer specification using a quality torque wrench can help prevent rotor run out."

Not saying it'll cause or prevent it for sure but it'll at least take that variable out. No matter how you slice it, the shudder comes from uneven wear coming from either the braking system or poor materials being used (ie cheap rotors and pads).