Home Improvement Today?

In most cases they’re behind fences, joe blow can turn your power off by pulling the meter also

 

Yep. That’s a problem too that comes with the stupid rules. Most people put a small padlock on that the FD or PD cuts in case of emergency.

If someone really wanted to they can easily walk up and shut off the whole house, no cameras or security anything and walk around like they own the place if no one is home.

 

seems retarded to expose breakers to the elements , its always inside here , only the meter base is outside

 

Hey guys, I'm building garage in the near future, once the city approves permits and such, so looking at about 150 years from now.

Really though probably going to get build within a year, but I need a storage space for tools, bikes, boxes of useless shit, etc. Was considering a Tuff Shed, but after researching options, for the price, and the fact that I can't really move it later, I'm looking at resin sheds, like these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubberm...x-7-ft-Storage-Shed-2035891/303473916#overlay
https://www.homedepot.com/p/US-Leis...d-Resin-Storage-Shed-157479/100652232#overlay

Anyone here have these things? How are they? Any other alternatives I should consider? I'm in Southern California, so severe weather isn't really a concern here...

 

I haven’t seen any ones with padlocks on them, but I’m in a smaller town (about 70K people).

The breaker boxes are sealed decently well, some places have them inside, some have them outside I think in colder regions they tend to put them inside.

 

I got a Keter brand last year, I think it’s 11’x7’. It’s nice. Not sure I would do it again. I needed something fast and it only took a couple hours to assemble vs a couple weeks to make. I do like the Keter though. It is well made and looks good. One plus is since there is no wood, I don’t have to have it treated for termites.

 

I hear you. Our first place was built before electric or indoor plumbing. That place was a demon hell ride.

 

think it comes down to location. Not sure why they’re outside in many, I personally hate it. My house in OK was inside. House in NV was outside. Current house in VA is inside.

 

Thanks, yea, I'm hoping for something I can assemble in a weekend. It doesn't need to last a lifetime. Just stand up to a couple southern California "winters."

 

We have a smaller one that my wife uses for all of her chicken supplies, it’s held up quite well in the Colorado climate for the last year or so

 

thats good to hear. I'll probably pick one up next week and assemble it over the weekend.

 

To top it off that's a "sub" panel and $10 says it's not wired as one.

 

seems ass backwards to me having the breaker panel outside . In BC the electrician can pull the meter base but BC Hydro is supposed to re-install the base and add a seal

 

Had a crazy deal today. Got to where the drains were all acting like they were stopped up. So a friend says check your vent stack. Sure enough i pulled a dead squirrel out and the drains went back to normal.

 

My breakers are inside

 

CA - Outside - panel is under the meter. House built 1994. My parents houses built in the 60's and 80's are the same.

We don't have to worry about mooses eating our breakers I guess.

Security system has a battery backup.

 

Well the wife and I decided we wanted to continue the flooring from in the kitchen into the living room and spare bedroom. So ripped out the carpet in the living only to discover where the joists meet up with the steel beam wasnt level at all. Had a nice ~1/4" hump to it. Wasnt noticeable with the thick pad and carpet but wasnt going to work. Between the subfloor they just used..something. Not totally sure what but its a cement like product. Thankfully it didnt really stick to the beam so it came off easy. But after removing a small portion we knew something was up. One side of the "cement" on the beam was maybe 1/8" thick while the other end was closer to 1/4. Plus the side furthest from the wall they had reduced the subfloor thickness to ~1/2 of what it should be. Maybe thinking they would just go right over the beam? They at least added support under the reduced thickness sections



So our game plan was to just replace the subfloor around the beam.


Once we had it removed we noticed the problem. The "short side" joists all sit ~1/4" below the steel beam top. The "long side" are all pretty much flush or just below the top of the beam. The "long side" is also slightly off level with the high side being the beam side.



So our thinking to solve the problem and get the floor level enough for flooring.....just skim the needed ~1/8-3/16" off the "long side" joists and do it over the ~40" from the other piece of subfloor to the beam.

Figured I'd get second opinions before just doing it (well and im done for the day) and make sure Im not thinking of something easier/wrong with the idea.

 

I had a similar problem in our master and solved it the same way I think you are describing. On mine, the second story overhangs the back of the house a couple feet and the joists were sagging on that side causing the opposite side to rise. I secured the rising side with 2x 10” or so long lag screws/bolts to keep them from moving more. Then bought a power planer and took off about 1/2” over a couple foot span adjusting the height of the planet mid stroke to taper the planing. Then on the low corner, built it up with an extra layer of plywood, feathering compound and then the whole floor got self leveling compound (no picture of this room with that). That lowest corner (final picture) was an inch and a half lower than the rest of the floor only ten feet away when we started. Perfectly level when we finished. Came out great.

 

i've never seen a wood to steel beam connection like that , usually we pad the beam with wood on both sides , full depth of the web and put the joists in hangers