How to: DIY Wedge Camper

Drop in nuts seem like a much easier solution than modifying the rail to me. I ordered a bag to have on hand for adding accessories.

 

Something like this for the drop in nut.

https://www.grainger.com/product/2R...ucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231

I mitered my 80/20 extrusions so Ill either use this or drill an opening as that is a good idea. Thanks for the flat bottom end mill advice! I have some other uses for this on projects.

 

did you find a drop in but that works for 15 series and has a 5/16-18 thread?
or are you planning on using metric hardware?

 

Yeah once you bolt the roof on and the space frame, interior items are going to be impossible without a milled or drilled out section or utilizing drop-in nuts. Exterior slots are not too big of an issue.

I ended up using some GE clear silicone for the extrusion to floor surface and will likely do the same for the roof. Silicone around all the nuts and washers as well. I am hoping it is able to stand up to the typical pressure washing that I do after a trip.

 

Yes.

I Got these - went stainless since they’re mostly for exterior accessories.
https://www.tnutz.com/product/db-015-ss/

But also available in carbon steel:
https://www.tnutz.com/product/db-015/

 

Gotcha,
I was more thinking something like this that allows you to add and remove these without having to think ahead too much.

$12 8020, 3933, 15 40 Series 1/4-20 Standard Drop in T-Nut Steel Nut T-Slot T-Slotted Accessories for 80/20 Aluminum Extrusion Hardware 1/4 Nuts (10 Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-Drop-T-Nuts/dp/B00TG0QVWG

 

Current state here


I think the aluminum rivets I got are problematic, havent tried the black ones, but the silver ones are. Two different rivet guns and they wont break off where they should. The rivets that came with the gun (same size) work perfectly. Hoping the black ones arent problematic

 

I'm curious how did everyone else sealed their 3mm roof alupanel to extrusion. I'm trying to use 1/16inch ultra-soft foam but it does bulge out the panel quite a bit in between the bolts, almost back to 1/16inch and it looks kind of crappy and probably has a weak seal in the middle. I could double up on bolts but would have to drill 48 more holes and the bulging would not go away entirely.

 

What exactly is the problem with them. Do they brake to soon or too late? I'm about to use them to mount the hinges....

 

This is why I scrapped the butyl tape, it didnt compress easily enough and had bulges. I resorted to some of this instead
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Silicone-2-10-1-oz-Clear-Silicone-Caulk/3084963

Dont know how it will seal, but as long as the panel sits flush, this should fill in any gaps and keep water out

They were breaking off too soon. I suppose you will find out if its just me or my guns lol. It isnt the end of the world if you try one and it doesnt break where it should. I was able to fix a few by taking the rivet sizing piece off the gun to get the gun further onto the rivet

 

Thanks for the advise on the sealant it seems like its the best option for this material choice.


I did try a couple of the flushed and black domed rivets. My first impression is that both of them lack the clamping force to pull the materials together and form a tight joint. I have never used rivets before so I do not know what is normal. But I assumed that a rivet would apply a significant force to compress and join to panels together. If you have better rivets in mind I would like to know.

 

I'm coming to the conclusion that these rivets perform in such a way because they have aluminum mandrel. Instead, we need aluminum rivets with steel mandrel.

 

My butyl tape had bulges as well (and still does slightly) but I was able to work my way around the perimeter with a clamp and compress the butyl between fasteners. Much less bulging after that but doesn’t completely get rid of it. Probably could have done an even better job if I had applied alittle heat As I went around.

My upper wedge has been super dry in the start of our PNW rainy season. I just need to fix the leaky side panels on the bottom and I’ll be set.

 

Very nice! I was wondering how such a camper would do at PNW. What's up with your leaky bottom panels? Any learnings or advice for that area?

 

I’ll tell you what, the frame building portion was probably the easiest aspect. That or the project was fresh and I hadn’t yet lost my will to live

I am now getting to the point where it’s small details and accuracy and it’s definitely much slower of a process.

 

Have any of you Wedge camper guys installed a digital rear-view mirror? They are becoming more and more popular with OEMs and the aftermarket has some options. Since most of the campers block that rear view it might be an easier/cheaper alternative to windows.

https://the-gadgeteer.com/2020/03/13/acumen-xr10-digital-rearview-mirror-review/

 

Dammit just another thing to add to the build list.

 

Did you end up getting the alupanel for the lower extrusion cut the full length and just cutout the inside bed portion? Im debating doing that or just cutting up to the front 1.5" tubing. It would be easier but ten I am worried about leaks possibly since it would sit differently but I could use cork/foam as spacer.

 

Tell me about it. I'm about to sell my pickup and buy a Tacoma just to build one of these campers. Having seen Ripcords in person, I've been jealous of the entire setup.

 

I modified ripcord's cut file in fusion360 to fit my needs. The alupanel is cut to full length and the panel to cover the lifting portion was cut out of the material in that gap as well. With the lifting platform, it has to be narrower than the extrusion as you need room to get past the keder rail that sticks out like 1/4in on each side. You would have to do full length to keep the profile between the space frame and the extrusion the same thickness. It also helps with the drilling of the holes in the space frame as the floor panel has the holes cut in it if you get it cut at a shop (highly recommend)