MPG Mods

couldn't you add some ventilatio Vents on your hood to help remove the heat from your engine bay to help cool off the motor or any components like the air intake? not sure if that would help with miles per gallon but depends on how cool you're able to get the actual air coming in the motor..
if you're sucking and cold air but as the air travels down the intake hose it will heat up if the tubing is very hot so if you're able to keep the air intake hose cool the air should stay cool as it travels down into the air intake manifold there for keeping your MPG quality.

but then again that probably has no actual games maybe I'm wrong maybe it's just another stupid question of mine

 

2020 Tacoma 4×4 Auto 2.7 AC long bed-stock wheels/tires. Extra 300 lbs above weight of truck (me & tool box & all gear & I also haul 30-50gallons of water for camp). I've been recording mileage since I got this truck on May 11-20.... I've been averaging 24-25mph. 85% of my driving is at 50mph - 15% around town. The 2.7 loves it. I do not use ac unless I'm intown going slow. I learned real quick she doesnt like hills OR highway OR cruise control. So one night I shut the radio off & I listened to the motor & how it shifts. How it climbs a huge hill I go up often. Wallaaaa. It loves going slower OR under the posted speed limit. If I hit the highway I do 60mph with no cruise control on (normal 75mph Fed's stupid speed limit) Rides like a dream. I didnt know if I was going to like this truck at first. The more I drive it-the more I like it... I keep adding accs to it. So I know fuel mileage is going to go down. No biggie. Still fun to drive. Will post picture. MPG I state is from my record MPG book & not the reading on dash. I have had all bars at 30 across the screen. But the average has been 24-25+ mpg. I know I can do better. But I'm happy.

 

My understanding is that cold air into the engine will give you more HP because cold air is denser and has more oxygen. But the computer will inject more fuel if there is more oxygen, gotta keep the A/F ratio correct. End result is more HP but no gains in fuel economy. In fact, fuel economy may go down because more power = more fun which may result in more spirited driving

 

I like your enthusiasm for mpg, the more information you have and can use the better. I use an old scangauge gen I.

As you are finding out, with the automatic cruise control isn't tuned to maximize mpg, kinda sad Toyota doesn't make the auto with a MPG mode. They certainly could.

Can you even get the manual transmission anymore? Cruise actually works great with my now 15 year old 2.7 stick. I generally use cruise most of the time and I can tap the cruise up or down as needed.

I don't find the road rage situation when I drive 60-65 in the 75 zones in CO, I think people that say they would get run off the road if they drove 60 just can't adjust their outlook to a different goal.

Enjoy your new ride, and keep saving gas.

 

on my previous 4door V6 PreRunner long bed

my mpg actually went up when i dropped the LEER on
i was surprised
i think more aerodynamic / less drag

 

So is an AFE or K&N worth the cost in the long haul? I average 22-24 with 27k driving mostly highway.

 

Short answer is...Nope.

Long answer is...It wont end up changing the fuel/horsepower of the engine by an appreciable amount.

The filter flows better(maybe) yay! So you get more air going through the engine and the computer increases fuel to match. So you pull your foot out just a bit to not be going faster than you were. You end up at the same speed, because the amount of air going through the engine is the same. The intake restriction moves from the filter to the throttle plate ending up at about the same MPG.

Only thing that has a chance of paying for it self is something that reduces the amount of energy it takes to move your truck along. So lower rolling resistance or aerodynamic drag.

 

Lighter wheels, (and down to a point smaller wheels and higher axle ratio). Pretty much the opposite of what you need to maximize ground clearance. Sitting lower helps too. Driving around with a really cool rack doesn’t.

 

I'm running the AFD air intake on my truck this summer and I wrapped the main pipe in some heat wrap I had sitting around. Comparing May-Sep from the previous 2 years, I'm getting around .7 to .85 mpg better gas mileage. I think the straighter/smoother airflow helps. My truck averages 16.3 mpg with the lift and 33" tires so the increase is around 5% roughly. If you do a lot of highway, I bet it will be closer to a 7-8% increase since I just do around town mostly at 45 mph or less and almost weekly boat towing.

 

Since these are reusable filters, eventually you will recoup your purchase cost by not buying any more air filters. But usually with increased flow comes reduced filtration efficiency. This is especially true of the K&N which I would ONLY use in a road racing application (where dust/dirt is reduced and my foot is always on the floor). So I chose the aFE Pro Dry for my pickup. It filters nearly as well as a standard paper filter and will probably outlive me.
Dubiousveracity's comment about the throttle valve being the main restriction is definitely true -- with "performance" air filters, you only see a performance increase when your foot is on the floor and the throttle valve is removed from the equation. In this situation, the air filter (or intake ducting) is the primary restriction, not the throttle valve. Most people I know don't drive with their foot on the floor very often. But do whatever spins your beanie, it's your money.

 

I fully agree that the choice of drop-in air filter will have no, read zero, effect on fuel economy numbers when said filter is installed on a fuel injected, computer feedback fuel mixture controlled vehicle. The air/fuel ratio is fixed at whatever the system calculates is necessary to completely oxidize whatever noxious blend the gubmint decrees to be motorfuel. A pity it is no longer gasoline.
What I need to know is where the documentation was found that K&N filters provide inferior and inadequate filtration and introduce "silicates" that will destroy piston skirts and cylinder walls. If there is non-anecdotal evidence of this, I need to know immediately so I can removed my K&N drop-in and sue K&N for an engine replacement.
I installed it for the few horsepower it might provide when, while finally reaching a point where I might legally pass someone who had been traveling at 15 mph under the limit for 20 miles of double yellow, they decide to boot it up to ten over as I hurtle headlong toward the grill of a horn-blowing semi.

 

Nice. I’ve not yet had the opportunity to drive a full tank at such a modest pace but it sure is relaxing those periods when traffic and terrain oblige. It really sips when you drop below 65.

 

Hey! Just bought a beautiful 2021 OR with a 3 in lift and 285s. This thread helped me go from about 14 mpg to around 20 mpg on my commute just by using the egg trick and keeping it around 65 mph on the freeway. Thanks!

 

Clean throttle body and MAF for better fuel economy

 

Good morning TacomaWorld and beyond.
Has any one installed a Hydrogen on Demand system with success yet?
Please talk me out of installing a Hydrogen on Demand system into my 2012 4cyl manual Tacoma...

 

Have they gotten to the point where it takes less energy to make the HHO than you get from putting the HHO into the intake?

You'll pay some money do some work and won't get any improvement that hold up to scrupulous evaluation.

 

It would work just fine if powered by solar + batteries. Then there’s no extra drain on the alternator and you’re no longer looking for “free” power. Fooling the ecu so that timing and fuel are corrected for actual O2 and combustible OH added is the real issue. The mistake is assuming you can generate it from the alternator output to begin with.

 

Love the way those make the motor sound. I have one from my old hemi I'm going to try to modify

 

I am running the same exact setup
Tell me your secrets...

 

Over about 55 aerodynamic drag starts to take over from rolling resistance for fuel use. Once you hit about 65 drag really has it's way with your fuel tank.

Brakes convert kinetic energy into brake dust and heat, avoid that. Don't creep up to speed, and don't floor it as one keeps you in inefficient gears, the other puts you into open loop fuel management. And quite literally due to differences in climate, drive cycle, traffic YMMV.