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My washing regimen?

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by Fullsendcf, Nov 9, 2020.

  1. Nov 11, 2020 at 11:43 AM
    #41
    clenkeit

    clenkeit Well-Known Member

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    I wholeheartedly disagree with that guy... in some situations and completely agree in others. I think that guy is settled way too deep into very high end, concours type cars that rarely see the light of day and likely never get even close to as dirty as our daily drivers do after just a couple weeks sitting outside. In that environment, then yeah, the contaminants are likely not as big of a deal as the scratches you'd get - especially on darker colored paint.
     
  2. Nov 11, 2020 at 11:57 AM
    #42
    Fullsendcf

    Fullsendcf [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So updated regiment.. This should stir up some more disagreement :D

    Next Wash:
    1. Wheels/Tires
    2. Pressure rinse
    3. Soap/Agitate w/ mit
    4. Rinse
    5. Iron Remover
    6. Clay
    7. Dry (leaf blow or microfiber)
    8. Sealant
    9. Wax
    *Skipping polishing for now as swirls are minimal as of this moment. Will add polishing in between 7 and 8 once I figure out how to machine polish
     
  3. Nov 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM
    #43
    Venom

    Venom Well-Known Member

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    It was something different at the time when it was first produce. especially with clay bar patent, back then. Clay sponge, mitts, wasn't design yet.

    I never tried it, thought about trying it. Today market there a lot a contaminant removal product available.
     
  4. Nov 12, 2020 at 7:24 AM
    #44
    rfranklin1

    rfranklin1 Well-Known Member

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    Only thing I would add is a tar/adhesive remover between steps 4 and 5. Also, when you're doing any kind of decon, you should use a soap with a higher pH that is designed to remove waxes/oils. Something like Adam's Strip Wash should be sufficient - just make sure you are only using that when you're decontaminating. When it comes to maintenance washes, you will want a soap that is pH neutral (won't break down the waxes/sealants).

    As for drying, the leaf blower will be fantastic once you have a wax or sealant on the paint. It won't help much after the decon, though (water will stick to the panels like crazy with no protection on the paint). I would highly suggest spending the money on a nice drying towel before you go through those motions. The Rag Company's Gauntlet Drying Towel is a good option. It will be a bit more expensive than what you'd find at Walmart or other stores, but it also uses a higher quality blend of microfiber that will be softer on the paint and less likely to cause scratches/swirls.

    Long story short - detailing is expensive. :)
     
  5. Nov 12, 2020 at 3:13 PM
    #45
    Fullsendcf

    Fullsendcf [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Expensive indeed! Thanks for the feedback. Will def take all of it into account. Washing this weekend :fingerscrossed:
     
    rfranklin1[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Nov 12, 2020 at 4:48 PM
    #46
    Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Well-Known Member

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    Agreed that a leaf blower works better on flat surfaces when there's some sort of wax / sealant / coating on them. But where it really shines - no matter what - is areas like wheels, side view mirrors, grills, etc. All that hidden and trapped water just comes flying out.
     
    rfranklin1[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Nov 12, 2020 at 4:55 PM
    #47
    clenkeit

    clenkeit Well-Known Member

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    ^This. I should try the leaf blower again I don't remember having much luck last time. But also, I have an older battery operated one so it may just not be powerful enough.
     
  8. Nov 12, 2020 at 5:52 PM
    #48
    rfranklin1

    rfranklin1 Well-Known Member

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    I love mine. Makes a huge difference when the paint has some protection on it. The majority of the water just beads up and runs right off. There are usually some misty beads left over, but those clean up really easily with a soft towel and some detail spray (to lubricate the surface and prevent swirls).
     
  9. Nov 14, 2020 at 9:23 AM
    #49
    Taco_mike73

    Taco_mike73 Well-Known Member

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    Lomax tonneau cover, oem bed lights, AJT Design chrome delete, black out badges & tailgate letters, AVS hood deflector & vent visors, Solkie tech hood supports, interior LED lights, Tufskinz mud guards, RedArc TowPro Liberty, bed mat, kicker speaker upgrade, Hikari ultra H11 low beams, Diode Dynamics SS3 fogs in yellow, Meso customs total taillight stage 1. Coming soon: Compact powered sub install Future mods planned: bigger tires (265/75/16) BILLSTIEN 5100 lift
    I would not clay bar after every wash. Isn't that hard on the paint??? When I've done it its only been once a year.
     
  10. Nov 14, 2020 at 9:38 AM
    #50
    Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Well-Known Member

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    Yes, even done correctly, it's not something you want to do every wash. Done incorrectly, you don't want to do it at all.
     
  11. Nov 14, 2020 at 9:56 AM
    #51
    Knute

    Knute Well-Known Member

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    When I do wash, about every 6 days, I stuff everything into the machine, shut the door, turn the knob to Easy Care, set water temperature to Cold, add detergent, press start.

    40 minutes later, remove, stuff into dryer...................


    Remember, these trucks have a CLEAR coat that is very durable. You can muck about enough to eventually cut through the clear coat. Then you have exposed the paint layer.
     
  12. Nov 14, 2020 at 10:25 AM
    #52
    Taco_mike73

    Taco_mike73 Well-Known Member

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    I've only used clay bar on my previous vehicle 2x in 11 years of ownership. It was a 2006 model year. Both times it looked fantastic after it and a good wax to seal it. After the last time when it was like 13 years old The clear coat started to delaminate about six months after. If that was the cause or it was the dark color, age and/or Chrysler's paint IDK but it made me feel like clay bar was something to be careful with and use sparingly.

    When Brought my truck home it was my first new vehicle ever. Some friends told me to clay it right away. Some said no it's fine not to just wash and wax good. I used an iron remover all over then washed by hand followed by two coats of Meguires hybrid ceramic wax. I wanted to remove contamination but went a more gentle route. Not sure if it was for the best or not. I think everyone has an option on what is best. I still will clay it maybe next summer and have product ready to to go when it's time.
     
  13. Nov 14, 2020 at 11:48 AM
    #53
    Fullsendcf

    Fullsendcf [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah - Again I should’ve clarified. This will be my first legit full comprehensive wash since getting my truck almost 2 months ago. My maintenance washes every so often will be much less.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2020
  14. Nov 14, 2020 at 1:54 PM
    #54
    tonykarter

    tonykarter Crappie Savant

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    Pine tree air freshener
    Hand in ziploc bag, rub finish after rinse. If rough, clay bar. I wouldn't do it more than once a year AT MOST. This, only claybarred twice since 2009: That's Zaino Z5 on there. I'm stripping it off and going back with CarPro Ceramic UK 3.0. That shit is THAT GOOD.

    Picture 031.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2020
  15. Nov 14, 2020 at 2:14 PM
    #55
    Twins09

    Twins09 Well-Known Member

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    Vent visor, hood protector, door sill protector, next up eibach,SCS Ray 10s to be installed next week...
    Do what works for you. Im on a well and have hard water. If my truck is super dirty ill go the self serve car wash and pressure wash it. When i get home I use ethos defy. It works for me. I try to keep my truck in the garage. Ill "wash" it about every week or two.
     

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