Major engine issues.

No problem. Unfortunately too many people buy a certified and don't know things are covered under warranty and get suckered into buying an additional warranty and what not. We found out about the leaky pump when we took it in for a recall. They started telling us how much it would be and I asked about my CPO warranty. Even then they tried to tell me that was only good at the dealership I purchased it at. (I have since moved several states away) i had to argue for about half an hour and make several phone calls to get them to fox my stuff. They then lost my keys for about 45 minutes after repair.

Long story short, if you do end up having issues, which many here seem to agree this is normal, don't let them push you into not thinking your warranty is a thing.

 

If you want to spend money and feel good about it, have an independent shop do a compression and leakdown test.

I too think the truck is fine, but that's the way to prove it.

 

Bill, I can't make out you new profile pic, gotta bigger one?

 

I just looked again in my purchase documents and it states 7 years from “new” purchase date. oh well. Hope it is nothing then.

I can’t thank you all enough for your help. I’ll report back after I get the. Compression, leak down and cooling systems pressure test done.

still don’t know why these codes are always stored in there. Startibility, lean bank, rich bank, etc. maybe no blown gasket but something else is amiss.

 

The bulletproof reputation really only applies if you bought it brand new and know what the truck has gone through. Buying used is a crapshoot

 

A compression test is not the proper way to inspect for a blown head gasket.

The only way to properly determine if a cylinder head gasket is blown is for a shop or him to do a cylinder leakage test. Some call it a cylinder leakdown test.

The OP is worried about nothing and just wasting his time though.

 

Correct of course. Updated my post. I'm gonna use 'tired' as my excuse.

 

To be clear, you're concerned about the smoke 30 miles after an oil change. Also the residue on the oil fill cap.

When you refilled the oil, what I've seen happen is smoke after from pouring in the new stuff so fast it overflowed through the pvc pipe into the intake and smoked immediately at start up. But you put 30 miles with no smoke?

Regarding the milky residue, did the oil also come out milky? Imagine the color of coffee, add a little cream, you have the color of slightly milky. Now make it half coffee, half cream, it's very milky. Cause is commonly an all short trip driver, it never gets the engine to full operating temperature to burn off the crankcase condensation. Another possibility is the pvc isn't working right. Look at the throttle body butterfly, if its totally mucked up you need a pvc valve. If oil was milky and you don't short trip drive, you could run a test to check for exhaust fumes in the radiator with a block tester. I don't know if you can rent one.

You mentioned tiny bit of milky residue. I've seen this before, oil came out slighty milky with a tiny bit of milky residue accompanied by water drops on the oil fill cap, sometimes the cap would be rusty. This being on a habitual short trip driver. To help rid your engine of this moisture, drive it longer for at least a week getting it good and hot. Then on a warm day, do the oil change again. Get it up to operating temperature, dump the oil leaving the fill cap off to allow as much of that moisture to evaporate as possible, maybe an hour. During that hour, you could pull the air filter box off to get a look at the throttle body butterfly. Clean it, replace pvc valve, go eat lunch. Then you've allowed it to drain really good, and allowed it to dry out really good. Reassemble, finish oil change, remember to not short trip your engine, you should be good.

 

First determine if there's a problem. I don't like dealers but if that's your preference (since you bought from one). have them run it through the wringer.

Or do tests yourself or a trusted mechanic before seeing them. Anyhow, I don't know if anything's wrong by what you're seeing.

 

I think your over paranoid. If you haven’t done so already get yourself some new plugs. Get yourself a cheap bore scope and look down at each cylinder. If you find shiny piston tops chances are water is getting in and steam cleaning the pistons. Very typical on a blown head gasket.

 

Ignore it & keep truckin' on.

 

Hard starts and DTCs with old and new plugs that I just put in two weeks ago. The milky stuff on the oil fill could very well be from condensation. Valid point. I am in a very different climate that San Diego so that possibility that was an oversight of mine.

Yep, I bought used. I may be being over paranoid, however since I bought it used having a compression check, leak down test, and cooling system pressure test will give me peace of mind as well as knowing what condition my “used” engine is in. It’s my money, so don’t anyone fret now. Yes, feel free to keep saying I am wasting my money. . I know a very reputable mechanic (non-dealer) that does great work.

Ok, did everyone get their licks in? Thanks to everyone, even the rabble-rousers!

Case closed.

Cheers,

 

Definitely. Lesson leanned, tell the WHOLE story up front.

 

Gotta be thankful for @boogie3478 . I just found this after changing my oil and taking the cap off. Had a heart attack but now I have a solid false sense of security

 

Update?

 

Never buy anything from stevens creek toyota... They blow hard