Tacoma Loose Bed design Flaw explanation

I've seen several references in this thread to torquing the bed bolts to 55-60#ft. But it has been confirmed that Toyota is silent on this number. It seems to me that 60#ft is a really high torque for a bolt through a 4" sheet metal sleeve retaining a composite bed in place. If one is putting some kind of plastic bushing between the bed gusset and frame, it seems to me it would be hard to get to 60#ft! I would expect any plastic to be seriously deformed.

I install tie-down kits and tighten only with a 8" 3/8" ratchet for which I wouldn't get anywhere near 60#ft.
Someone check my rough math, but from the engineeringtoolbox.com:

60#ft with a grade 5-8ish steel bolt 1/2" diameter will produce ~7200# of force. And if the bolt is lubricated, it might go up to 12000 #.
I cant see the need for 6 * 7200 = 43200 # force to hold a composite bed to the frame! I think all that torque force is going to be absorbed in the sleeve and simply deform it.
The bed bolt is likely grade 8.8 (84000psi proof). I have machined them and it requires carbide (maybe case hardened).
The bolt is 4+ inches long between the frame and the head, so even a 1/2" grade 8.8 bolt at 60 #ft is only at 36700 psi and there is
a lot of length to spread the strain over. But seems to me 20#ft of torque is more than enough.

 

I took some pics of my 2009 DC bed gussets with 130K miles. They dont look like the ones in the thread. I see no wear even though I have done a lot of AZ dirt & rock road driving, hauled stone and bricks with the axle bumper touching etc.

 

To those how put a buffer between the bed and the frame can you report back if that worked and which type worked best?

 

Mine is still solid 1 year after this post. Kind of surprised actually.

 

That's a good sign. I want to put my shell back on the truck but want to be sure this will do the trick befor putting the wight of the shell on. Man I miss my 1st gen Tacoma !

 

You guys ever wonder what and how the bed on these truck support the weight of a shell or a rack? If you really look at how the bed is designed it's like what really holds the weight and would putting a shell or rack would compromise the integrity of the bed?

 

2.5 years and still good. This is what I used: https://nswash.com/shop/uhmw-washer-2-1-2-x-1-4-x-1.html
Post 116 in this thread for more details.

 

Prefic Thank you Sir !

 

My 2015 sport feels like something is hitting the floorboard at times. Did anyone experience that with this bed bolt issue?

 

I ordered the washer from the link and they charged me $27 for shipping. Parts guy sent me $20 in cash to fix the problem. Got the bolt off and started trying to figure out where to put it and I think my sent me the wrong part. Mine is black, made of a hard plastic, and has a lip in it.

 

Used a piece of old conveyer belt instead.

 

I used a small chunk of dense rubber maybe 3/8” think and it’s been good and tight for 3-4 years now. Haven’t touched it since installing it.

 

I had this problem about a year and a half ago on my 2015 on the front passenger bolt. I took the bolt out which was really seized in there and then put a washer between the bed and the frame. I noticed mine rattling again yesterday and the bed is loose on that corner. I'm going to try a rubber or plastic spacer this time. I put antiseize on the bolt last time so hopefully it come out easier this time.

 

First, thanks to everyone who contributed to thread!
As I used all you knowledge to fix my problem I think I found a discrepancy. a few of the fixes have the washer/spacer with a hole only big enough for the bolt. I believe the washer/spacer inner hole must be larger than the sleeve (1 1/8”).
This sketch shows:
1) new
2) worn
3) fix with small ID spacer
4) fix with large ID spacer

 

I thought my shell was bouncing on my 2017, but it has to be this.
Now to find something to cut up and use as a washer.

 

Thanks to this thread I was able to figure out the clunking noise. This is on a 2020 Pro with just over 10k miles and a bit of off-roading and brutal axle wrap.


Passenger side



Compared to the driver side




I made some shims out of a plastic container lid. I expanded the ID to match the OD of the sleeve.



No more rattle after a long drive down a bumpy road. Hopefully it stays put!

 

You’re absolutely correct in your assessment. The sleeve MUST be able to fall through the inner diameter of the spacer.

If someone doesn’t do that, all they accomplish is adding a bit of cushion which might decrease the noise making them think it’s been fixed.

 

After spraying the offending bed bolt down w PB blaster monthly since September 2020 AND the purchase of a super deluxe breaker bar, my frozen bed bolt finally broke loose.

No more rattles! Driving experience enjoyment level has increased significantly

 

Milowilli was right at the start of the thread. I have tried washers in the bed with no long term success. Finally I cut a piece of a mud flap and used a Forstner bit to cut a hole in it. Lifted up the bed with my knee and slipped the spacer in and fastened the bolt down. Getting the bolt out was the hard part. Broke my star bit and finally got it our with a lot of effort behind a pipe wrench. Now the bolt fits a nice 7/8" socket.

 

Sitting in the dealership now for this issue. Mentioned this thread - typical response - “we don’t pay any attention to forum stuff”. So I can see this is going to be a joke I presume. I hope not.
Mark