Help wiring for two switches to one

Recently bought diode dynamics hidden light bar and ditch light kits. Need some help finishing up the wiring for my switch. I want both the ditch lights and the light bar to come on just by pressing one oem style switch I bought from caliraised. There’s 3 wires going to each DD switch, 4 wires coming out of the caliraised switch. Pic attached.

Appreciate any help.

 

I would think you take each color of the DD wires and connect them together, then put those wires to the to the caliraised switch.

 

What’s a trd spike?

 

A TRD with Spikes

I like spikes, I put them on everything, Motorcycles, Guitars... well, I guess just those things

 

Thanks, any idea what gauge wire I should use for the splice to the switch, or what to use as a connector? I assume I can’t use a normal butt splice connector going from 2 wires down to one. Also, if anyone has any idea what each of the 3 wires on the DD switch is that would help a lot!

 

@caribe makaira

This guy will know.
Hang tight man.
He will set you up with what you need to do.

 

You def can use butt connectors...for the side that has two wires in each, make sure the butt connector you chose will fit them both when they are twisted together....for the single wire side, what I like to do is strip maybe 2 inches of the single wire of insulation and then twist it. Then fold it back on itself and twist more with the idea that you are making it shorter but thicker so its snug in the butt connector (TWSS!). A couple other ideas.... soldering would be another way you can easily step up or down in wire gauge without connectors...and lastly, if you want to get really fancy or are AR about things, they in fact make butt connectors that step from one wire gauge to another. Very common on boats. My preference in Anchor Brand.

https://www.grainger.com/search/ele...ucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2296:9JMEDM:20500731

I cant help with what wires go to what but I hope this helped a little!

 

From the DD Website

• Switch Power Wire: White
• Signal Power Wire: Blue
• Ground: Black

 

Are both of your DD switches running to relays? They should be.

Assuming you are running them both to separate relays (again... you should be!) you only need the wire that runs to the relays on those rocker switches. You can just get rid of the rest or cap them. I'm not 100% sure which wire that is on those switches. Depending on the manufacturer they sometimes use the middle pin or the pin furthest from ground as the load pin. On DD's website I see the switch they sell has an "A" on the middle pin which I assume is "Accessory." If that's right then you'd use the blue wire.

For making your connections a spade connector is totally fine in your case. Simply take those two relay wires, twist them together, and then crimp them to the same terminal. From there you'll connect them to the Red wire closest to the Green wire on the push-style switch ("Red 1"). This will cause both relays to open simultaneously when you push that switch. A more robust option is to use a solder splice and some shrink tubing.

For the other wires on the push-style switch. You will run Red 2 (the one closest to the black ground) to your dash light circuit (+). Where is the switch going to be located? I can help you locate the best place to tap. For dimming, the OEM switches work off a variable ground. You'll take your Black lead from the push-style switch and run it to the variable ground (-) on your dash light circuit -- again we need to know where your switch is going to go. To do the tapping you'll want to use something like a small Posi Tap (off Amazon). Or build a break-out harness.

The final wire is the Green. Green is your switch's power (12 V). Figure out if you want your accessories to be able to be powered when the truck is off or only when the key is in the ignition and let us know. You will run that Green wire to your fuse panel and use a fuse-tap off of either a constant 12 V or keyed (ignition) 12 V source.

As for wire gauge -- you can use small gauge wire on your switches so long as... again... you're using relays.

 

The harnesses with the switches and battery connections supplied by DD has relays already on them. So yeah, there’s a relay for both the ditch lights and the light bar.

I’d like to only have these work when the truck is on, but if it’s going to cause me to have to tap into the trucks existing wiring I’d prefer not to do that.

 

If you want to illuminate your new switch and have them dim with your truck's other switches you're going to need to tap. I'm in the process of making a couple break-out harnesses for the factory bed light plug to avoid needing to actually cut-in to the factory wiring. Waiting on components to arrive but a break-out is basically the only way to avoid it.

If you want to have your accessories only work with keyed (ignition) 12 V then you'll need to tap (this is true for the push-style and those round rocker switches). A fuse-tap is reversible, however. It doesn't require you to actually alter your factory wring. If you don't want to use the fuse-tap anymore you just unplug it from your fuse box and put your old fuse back in there.

 

Once again, this site and its members helped me tremendously. Thank you all so much.