Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Was just going through his pictures lol

 

Finally found the pictures. He ran a driver side upper. Thinking that’s my only real option if I want any real uptravel.

 

You're gonna have to move the exhaust closer to the frame to get the upper to clear everything at full bump.

 

I’m going to try to squeeze it over there. If it turns into a ton of work and remaking the exhaust I’m just going to truss the axle and build an upper off of that. Way more room on the driver but it may fit on the passenger with some decent placement. We will see. Cs come on Sunday finally

 

I may have missed this, but why are you wanting to run it on the passenger side?

 

Be easier to package and transfer cross member is in the way on the driver side. Transfer case crossmember is the main reason to prevent redoing it/moving the upper to far forward.

 

Gotcha. Yeah we did one a while back and built a new crossmember and planned a drivers side upper all along. Made it much easier to package everything.

 

It wouldn’t be a ton of work for me to make upper fit on the driver but I’ll try to avoid it for now lol. You can see the hoop we did to clear the drive shaft on the passenger vs the driver. But with all that I’m not willing to loose the uptravel so if it’s a big difference I’ll move it over.

what’s the wheelbase on that and link length? There’s some holes in the frame I’ve been using as a reference but you have fish plates over them. Yours is the 3rd or 4th with thr lowers that triangulated on the frame side. What are you gaining by doing so? Would be a ton of work for me to do but if I have to remake the transfer case mount I may consider it.

 

That was a buddy’s rig. We used my shop to do his 3 link.
Triangulating lower links takes some load off of the panhard and lowers the roll axis, reducing flex steer. - paraphrase from Barnes 4wd.
Iirc the wheelbase was around 125in and the links were about 40in eye to eye.
I’ll text him to see if he can confirm.

 

With all that on the pax side, why wouldn't you put it on the driver's side? Looks like you are trying to stuff 50lbs of shit into a paper lunch bag while the driver's side is wide open. Just my observation based on one pic LOL

 

It’s actually not an issue at the frame end from my mock up. It’s going to be the ac compressor on the axle end and room for the upper link between the motor and frame.
The cs showed up today so hopefully by the end of the week I’ll be able to see what I’m actually able to do

 

Little bump for a tech question. Almost done with my 3 link and getting the shocks mounted. Will I see any Bad handling/tipping with having the shocks angled out 2 degrees at the top from 90? Ie the top of the shiv is 92 degrees at full bump. The shoc gets into the Panhard bracket is the only reason for all this.

 

I’m hardly an expert but I can’t imagine 2 degrees is going to take out much damping like running rear shocks at a 45* angle under the bed like mini truck guys do. Should still be super close to a 1:1 motion ratio

 

My only concern is as the shock travels down it’s amplified since it swings to the driver side so at ride height it may be 5 degrees. I don’t see it affecting anything but I honestly have no clue

 

I think Billavista has some good tech and a few spreadsheets that you can do some math in if you do some poking around his suspension tech page

 

This is probably the best place to ask - I know @malburg114 is using the GM master cylinder adapter for his brakes but is there anyone that has big front and rear disks with a different setup that they like - my original plan to swap to the 01-04 booster and use sos’s sequoia mc didn’t work because the pedals just aren’t reverse compatible afaik so going back to the double booster.

 

Can't fucking with the valving fix that?

I know jack shit about shocks.

 

@81Trekker might have experience with that

 

If it was me I would just replicate the brakeing system of whatever you pulled those calipers out of.

What kind of calipers?