Battery or alternator issues?

Just had an issue starting my 2017 Tacoma TRD Off Road with 83,xxx miles.

I went to start it and it struggled to start, clicked, and failed to start. I had it jump started and it worked, was able to drive it and since then (couple hours later) I haven't had an issue.

Yesterday I did notice that my dash displayed the mileage which I always keep off, and that the mileage for the A/B selector was on single digits as if it reset.. I also noticed my dash lights appeared slightly dimmer but I thought it was my eyes.

Today, my mileage displayed single digits on the A/B selector after the jump and my dash lights appear to come on slowly but look 'normal' as they did yesterday.

My truck was at the Toyota dealership a month or so ago and the battery tested okay, which doesn't say much - especially since the temp is dropping around here.

But if the mileage on the push button A/B selector is dropping back to single digits and backlighting of the cluster is coming on slowly, does that seem like something to do with just a battery replacement or the alternator? My worry is the alternator, as the battery is a cheap and easy fix.. But I also have not experienced anything electrical related occurring on a Tacoma.

Thanks in advance.

 

Age of battery? Sometimes it just needs a new battery. Over thinking gives people headaches....

 

If the alt was bad, the car would shut off after running a few minutes(after a jump start).

Walmart has AGM batteries for $150.

 

Buy a battery tester. They are cheap ($40).

You could have a dead cell and the voltage may read okay. Battery tester will tell you how many Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) you have left.

Mark

 

I was reading about the AGM but didn’t realize there were many differences and choices. Would you mind sending me a link to the one you’re speaking of?

 

2017. The build date puts it just over 3 years.
83k on it

 

Deka battery’s work well. My go to battery.

 

Go to your local big box auto parts store they’ll test your battery for free, they load test it

 

Get it load tested, but sounds like it needs a new battery. If battery testing was part of a complimentary check listed, I wouldn't have a lot of faith it actually was tested. Of course a battery will fail, so they could have and the timing is just that. With your age and mileage heading in to winter, a new battery is a solid investment, not worth getting stuck out in the cold trying to eek another $3 worth of life out that original battery.

 

good idea, but its better to start a What shall I do thread on TW than actually taking the truck back to the dealership to have the system checked out or even Autozone for a free load test

 

Relax there bud. He may be asking on here since he's not confident in taking the truck somewhere and wants an idea of where to head or where to look at it first. Dealerships often can't get you in same day and lots of auto stores have idiots working the counter. There's a huge knowledge base here so why not throw up a question?

 

so throwing out a random thread here makes more sense than Searching the web for an answer or even better taking it to someone that can really accurately troubleshoot the issue and determine whats wrong, can you tell me whats the biggest tire I can put on a stock suspension?

 

OP.
Your trip odometer reset due to low voltage when the starter pulled the battery down starting the truck. Since you were able to after jumping the truck, you will almost certainly need a new battery. If you go and buy a good battery you should be very happy for 4-7 years depending on your location. (Crazy cold or crazy hot maybe 3 years)
TLDR
Don't stress buy a battery.

 

Damn dude...

OP it's the battery. Go get a new one and move on with your life.

 

Brah

 

Eat a dick tough guy.

No one asked "what shall I do" or anything similar. My post was to ask what types of experiences people have between a possible alternator issue vs. a possible battery issue.

And if you know how to read, my truck was at the dealer a month or so ago and the battery tested in good condition.

Out of your 8k post count, I bet more than half are bullshit 'oh gotta post here' post.

 

It's all good bro, he's wasting his own time commenting.

We have a huge backup at the dealer here due to COVID restrictions and our local auto parts stores are short staffed as well due to the same. Easier to get an idea on here and just troubleshoot it from there as I haven't experienced the mileage display reset itself with any of my other vehicles.

I had an issue with the key fob (losing it and then the dealer bricked my ECU) last month and they tested the battery and said it was in good condition.. Which may be the case, but it was random for it to do this.

Appreciate your reply and appreciate the other replies too that were actually worth reading.

 

Sad I had to add another to the iggy list. Folks on a mission around here to assholes. Just like any other forum this one is filled with 10,000 post idiots who accomplish nothing within the community. If they were actually working on their rig, they'd be far less pain in the ass.
Future reference is batteries are a 4 year investment. That's why warranties are only 36 month free replacement and prorated for another 24 months for a total of 5 at most brick and mortar stores. Not many warranties better and if there are I've not heard of them. Many will tell you of their mega super duper battery they've had for 12 years and never failed to start. Let's be real, for $150 put a good battery and plan on another in 47 months..LMAO.
Zim

 

so go get a new battery if its dead, if its a bad alternator go to AUTOZONE they check it for free, if you weren't handicapped you could test all that yourself

 

I've been an admin/moderator on several forums in the past (BimmerForums, Honda-Tech, SupraForums, and a few others) until I couldn't dedicate enough time for it and weed out the idiots. You have 70% that are helpful and the 30% that just enjoy watching their post numbers increase just because.

Ofcourse people post stupid stuff and stupid questions, but sometimes that's the way they actually get answers along which in turn leads others to find the answer to a question they may have had as well.

Right now our COVID cases are spiking 1k plus a day in my area and I work closely with public safety, so throwing a post out here was the easiest thing I could do to get a general idea as to where to be looking without having to visit the dealer or visit a parts store where at the moment, are short staffed.

I've read on those super duper batteries that were $400 and phenomenal, and then I've read 'go buy the one with the most warranty and then when it shits the bed in a month, just go get a new one for free' - I'd rather get the one that may last longer in the long run, rather than revisit this again sooner than later. lol

Battery it is lol