Turbo BS Thread

That’s some serious carnage

 

I've never seen wheels repaired until a few days ago online and now today. My experience with cast repair is only from work and only as an observer. The old rig welder we had would always drill a hole at the end of the crack prior to opening the crack up and welding up the crack. He'd sawzall or use a small air grinder to open it. He claimed you need to terminate the crack first then open it up some so you can get good penetration to hold the two sided of the it together.

 

That’s true, drill hole at end. The channel is supposed to be for filler material.

 

Low profile lyfe, with crazy camber. When the idea of a look outweighs the function.

This is what I did. The top crack had three holes drilled. One section was near completely a triangle about to remove it self. The bottom crack was just one hole.

This is a forged wheel. We preheated it, after grinding it all out. Then I used a lot of cleaning action , prior to adding any filler. Filled on both sides.

It will be inherently weaker than off of the forging machine, but incomparably stronger than cracked. Lol

 

You could just strip the treads on the drain plug and leave it out... I heard about a guy

 

Alright gents. Here is a little snapshot. Speedo is 12% slow.

https://youtu.be/AUJzPszt5Pk

 

Mannnnn.... it never sounded so good. Which motor is this again? Lol

 

That the the 4.3L.

 

It was really cool playing it from my truck's audio system afterwards. Gives a different perspective of the sounds, than in the moment. Need to try to get a drive-by video.

 

Two thumbs up!

 

All that hard work paying off!!!

 

Only to get better from here too.

 

Evening gents, i have a MAPECU3 question regarding MAF intercept, MAP Y-axis mode.

I have been noticing in my datalogs that the MAF is pegged at 5.0v above around 5200rpms. While reading through the owner's manual it mentioned the ability to adjust the MAF voltage by up to +/- 2.5v. Does this mean it can provide additional fueling above the 5v mark up to the equivalent of 7.5v at the MAF but it continues to only shows 5v? it makes sense how the MAP sensor covers the load axis of the table but I am having a hard time wrapping my head around the voltage aspect of it.

 

@BassAckwards

My interpretation is for the ECU to add or subtract 2.5v it would need to be able to control the supply voltage. If it won’t read any higher you’d need a larger housing and scale the fueling to match it.

 

The software can add or subtract up to 2.5 volts from your input MAF. For example your input is 3 volts from your sensor. You can enter in the table any range of -2.5V to 2.5V. Your output to the ecu must still follow 0-5V. So 5.5V MAF out will not work. So 5V in and table +2.5V to make 7.5V will not work.

I have large injectors. I rail out the MAF at 5V around 4600rpm at the sensor. Since my injectors are larger than stock all the table values are negative. For example one of my cells is at -0.7V assuming I'm at 5v maf input. The MAF out to the ecu only reads 4.3V and the motor is still happy.

 

Okay i had to reread this several times, but i think that makes more sense. So this would be the reason why it's not recommended to go more than twice the size on your injectors with the MAPECU3 right? If you do then you risk the ECU not being able to pull enough fuel at idle bc of that -2.5 limit? If i'm off on a wrong tangent please let me know ha

That was my understanding as well with a standard ECU. I wasnt sure how a piggyback ECU with a MAP sensor too would be affected though. I really would like to avoid going up an intake tube size if at all possible.

 

There a few holes in the instructions that assumes you know tuning. The 2x size limit is mostly because as you increase the size of injectors your fuel trims will have larger oscillations in closed loop. Mine holds pretty clean for going 2x larger, but it feels like this is all it can take.

 

Turbo?!

https://youtu.be/32I0Qso4sDg

 

Rev Limiter

 

Bang shift