Tacoma 2.5" x 12-14" Shock Relocation 2005-2023 2nd 3rd gen Archive Garage

Measuring backspacing is easy, pull a wheel and put a straight edge across the inside edge/lip and measure in to the wheel hub face.

Offset is measured from imaginary center of the wheel to the wheel hub face, so if you only know the offset, you can calculate backspacing IF you know the wheel width.
The offset system is actually stupid, you have a wheel rated in inches but offset is in mm and measures to a point you can't measure?

If you have an 17x8.5 0 offset, the actual outside dims of the wheel are about 18x9.5, because rated wheel size is measured to where the tire bead sits, which makes sense.

Take 8.5+1" then divide in half and BS is 4.75"

A 17x8.5 wheel with -10mm offset is
8.5+1 = 9.5
9.5÷2 = 4.75
4.75" - 10mm (.4") = 4.35" BS

I run FJ cruiser 17x7.5 +15 offset
7.5+1 = 8.5
8.5÷2 = 4.25
4.25 + 15mm (.625") = 4.875" BS

 

looking for some advice on my soon to be setup. i have SOA icon RXT springs on option 3 and a 1" body lift. 35s with 4.30" backspacing. ill be running around 600lb in the rear constantly so i might even add in .5" to 1" spacer under the spring once i see how my bed settles. im thinking 2.5 14" custom valved king shock will cover me whether or not i end up running the extra .5 to 1" lift?

 

2.5 x 12 because the springs probably only do 12" and 14s need the axle tabs rotated down so you don't get a big gain in clearance with 14s

 

I have slowly been working to define my parts list. I think I have it dialed in. But need to round things out with wheels. I plan to do 35's on 17 inch rims. I know the recommended b/s is 3.50" max. I would prefer not to run spacers. I see that SCS has -38mm offset resulting in 3.5" b/s. But aren't wheels harder to balance with increasing negative offset? There is less surface to place the wheel weights. Am I off base here on this thought?

 

I think the 3.5" BS wheels could get by without a spacer if you ran 285 tires, but I don't think 35s, you might need 1.25" spacer

 

Will it be a big difference if I go with a 2.0 shock instead of the 2.5?
I’m waiting on my hammer hangers and now I want to get the shock relocation kit I’m just wondering if I should save a little bit more and get the 2.5 or if the 2.0 (X12) would be enough for me.
I don’t have any weight on the bed except for a spare tire carrier ~50LBs

 

Overlanders everywhere will say for you to get a 2.5, but if you’re not carrying a lot of weight as you said and aren’t prerunning, than I would say a 2.0 will manage just fine. With either option, I recommend you get remote reservoir as that will be a big upgrade over a monotube shock. The goal with the shock relocation is to maximize travel. The goal of the shock is simply to dampen suspension travel (or or any suspension shock) throughout out it’s geometrical range. So for normal highway and light off road use, a 2.0 is great. Now if you’re talking at speed, or prerunning, that’s when you’ll want a bigger shock for controlling that travel and it will need to be valved and setup properly for it.

 

I second that a 2.0 is plenty fine. They’re still beefy as shit.

 

I third! I went 2.5 because it wasn’t much more at the time and wanted to have a cross between trails and pre running. plenty of guys run 2.0 in the rear.

 

ok so how do we get a discount code? i already purchased the shocks, i am missing the relocation towers

 

Well just started sale today use code november10 til Nov 30th

 

found these on the doorstep this AM

These are going on in next weekend . So nice - looks good Archive

 

Got all the parts- thanks Archive

 

Last day of sale pricing, if you want them, get them now, because price jumps up tomorrow

 

gm- installation is going well and I am just about done- I do wonder did you or have you had a chance to get any pics or designs for the limit strap solution you mentioned that goes to the frame? and where about did you say the limit tabs should go on the axle/ frame? Is that outboard towards the wheel side of the ubolts?

 

No, I didn't get it done on my truck yet, been too busy with orders. Here is the image in the instructions

I would run a strap up to the frame rail a few inches behind the bump bracket on the frame, drill a 1/2" hole in the frame about 1" from the bottom flange. Using this method for a 12" shock should be about right for a ~18" strap

 

kinda off topic but i figured this was a good way to reach you archive. Im trying to beef up my icon RTX rear leaf springs to better manager 600-700lbs constant load in bed. do you think your rear additional antiwrap leafs would be compatible with the icon rtxs in option 3?

 

Hi,

No, the RXT design is single stage, it doesn't include a 2nd or overload to engage

 

Currently working on placing an order for ADS shocks. Here is what I have in my email so far, any suggestions as far shock build requests go? Specific hose lengths, etc? Positives/negatives of 12" vs. 14"?

General Shock Build request:
- 2.5x12" smooth-body shock
- Remote reservoir w/compression adjusters
- Straight fitting out of top cap for reservoir hose
- Standard rod-end (1.5" wide, 1/2" bolt)

 

That all sounds good Brent, but I think ADS standard rod end is longer than King's standard, I would request a short rod end for gound clearance, keeps the axle tab up higher.
I recommend the same for Fox 2.5s