Advice for changing my own brakes

Hi there I wanted to know if anyone know of a great video that I could use to do my own brake job on my 2016 Toyota Tacoma sport? I went to the dealership and they wanted to charge me $537 just to do the front brakes I told him no way. I saw a couple of videos on YouTube about using a C clamp to push the calipers back in but I also saw that doing this can cause some lights to turn on your dash. Any information would be greatly useful.

 

Get this, it'll take 5 min per side.

$65 Lisle 29100 Quick Quad Pad Spreader

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GLQCKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_7LvZFbDM3ANQW

 

Following this post because I'd like to do my own brake job on a 2017 TRD-OR.

 

A C-clamp on the old brake pads works and you get a useful C-clamp that has more uses.

 

This works faster.

 

C clamp works great. Been using that for years on many different cars

 

This video may be helpful.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FLiedgXMxXs

 

I use channel locks to depress the piston.

 

At 60 some thousand miles I did the wife's 2nd gen. Just used a c clamp to compress the piston, if you never added brake fluid you shouldn't have to worry about it flowing out the reservoir. My method is to crack the reservoir cap loose before compressing piston, and I do passenger side first. There was so little wear on the rotors that I didn't even have them turned. Just used Toyota pads IIRC about $60.00

 

I used this video when I did mine back in the spring. I didn't have a c clamp or that awesome brake tool so I used a big screw driver on the old pads. I also changed the rotors while I was there.

 

Tundra shown. Tacoma is the same except it has 6 lugs:



Just put a screwdriver or pry bar between the pad and rotor to push the pistons back. Damage to the ABS module is unlikely (Eric at South Main Auto hasn't seen it after 1000+ brake jobs). However, if you're concerned, make your own bleeder bottle, crack open the bleeder, then push the pistons back. That way, the fluid displaced by the pistons will go into the bleeder bottle rather than up into the ABS module.

 

Thank you everyone for all the information I greatly appreciate it. I have one more question what about as far as adding anti-seize or lubrication to stop squeaking noise when installing new pads?

 

Just my method, but don't worry about the reservoir cap. Crack open the bleed nipple while driving back the pistons. Then, you have most of the brake bleeding finished instead of forcing the worst of the fluid back up the line.

 

I used the factory replacement pads from Toyota. I didn't put anything on the pads and no noise or squeaks. That was 35k miles ago.

 

When pushing the caliper piston back into the caliper, loosen the bleeder. It will somewhat keep the bleeder from seizing and the extra brake fluid will get pushed out of the system. I think that is what messes the system up.

 

A little antiseize on the pins won't hurt. And in case someone hasn't mentioned it.....Akebono pads are awesome.

And I have never had to crack a bleeder valve doing a brake job. The system is closed and the fluid level in the reservoir will lower and raise a bit depending on the pad/shoe wear. If it overflows from the reservoir when the pistons are compressed than someone probably added fluid to it thinking it was low....when it was just worn pads. Once you have everything done, start the rig and pump the brakes a few times, then check the fluid level. Pull or add as necessary with your favorite DOT 3 or 4.

Replaced mine in the spring.

 

I got away from opening bleeder valves due to breaking a couple off over the years. Harsh chemicals they put on the roads here take their toll on undercarriage parts. I've done it both ways. Also find that brake fluid is nasty so if you go loosening the bleeder route, use a 6 point socket or wrench and keep plenty of brake parts cleaner on hand.

 

I may have used high temp brake grease on those pins myself. It's been quite awhile, but it wouldn't hurt.

 

It is up to you, but it is a good practice to bleed the brakes every two or three years. A small dab of antiseize on the threads should last the light of your vehicle if the nipples are a problem.

 

will be doing my 2016 over christmas, have 65k on my front pads and will need them replaced, easy to do...