Engine oil fill spout on truck

We are aware that these fill necks are rather weak and when they come in contact with anything, battery and/or otherwise they tend to break off. So we found a Toyota OEM Part (#12185-38011) That is a direct fit and will resolve all issues of contact and weakness of the oil fill neck. With Oil seal (#12196-38010) This fits the factory studs and still allows for full use of the oil fill neck and retains use of the factory Filler Cap.

 

I think 2nd gen guys used to buy the tundra neck for the super charged models, wonder if it fits the 2gr.

 

Anything about the weight of the recommended batteries? I have 2x pc1400s and I'm worried now that the wheel well is going to start cracking

 

Those are the recommended batteries for the side by side system, as the instructions mention, for optimum strength, use of all 4 rivnuts is recommended calling with using the M6 bolts, washers, and nuts in the other holes will also provide maximum strength. Making sure than the tray is bolted down tightly will also reduce the amount of street placed on the fender. So checking the bolts every few months is recommended to reduce metal fatigue.
That being said, we haven't seen many issues with this on either the 2nd or 3rd gen models. Not to say it doesn't happen, we just haven't had many trucks roll through the shop with cracks forming. If all the bolts holding the tray are tight and it has no movement it while reduce the likely hood of a crack starting.

 

Good stuff - thanks!!

 

How did your jb weld repair hold up over time? The dealer is telling me to replace my valve cover gasket cause it’s still leaking oil but it sounds like a load of crap to me. Instead of paying almost 900 dollars for them to replace it I think I’m gonna go back and give another shot at gluing it back on

 

Side to side in a longitudinal mounted engine and front to back in a horizontally mounted engine. Have someone rev the engine in your truck and see which way it moves. It moves because the crank is accelerating in one direction and the engine block in the other..... and because it uses soft mounts to absorb some of the vibration.

 

Why? It does a fine job when in the application it was designed for.

 

Applied correctly, epoxy can do a great job. I'd imagine it was more of application than design, otherwise we'd have tons of them falling off.

 

Well considering the comment was 2 years ago, I had to review the thread and what I was talking about.

I was talking about the factory design of how the neck is attached to the valve cover. On a lot of vehicles with a neck that long it threads into the valve covers at the bottom a quarter turn. So you can actually remove that piece when doing work or replace it if it was cracked or or something.

 

Jb weld is still holding up good after a few years now. I used the high heat putty. Make sure you let it cure. I think the first time I didn't let it cure and it only last a few weeks before it fell off. The second time I let it cure for a day or two and it's been solid ever since.

This is what I used
https://www.jbweld.com/product/highheat-epoxy-putty

 

Loctite makes an epoxy adhesive made just for plastic parts, should be easy to find on a google search.

Here you go...

$18 Loctite Plastic Bonder, 0.85 fl oz, Syringe 1 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Plas...ocphy=9033617&hvtargid=pla-315968849748&psc=1

 

Epoxies generally work better on scuffed surfaces than smooth ones too.

 

How does this resolve the issue of the weakness with the oil fill neck? Looks like it just replaces the long, upper part with a short, upper part, but the adhesive joint at the valve cover still exists. Isn't that just a Lexus part sans the baffle? Maybe I am missing something?

 

What it does it reduce the chance of being hit. While it doesn't fix the weakness in Toyota's design, it does reduce the ability to break it off at that weak point. Reducing the chances of damage.

 

Loctite makes structural adhesive with primers etc. If mine failed that's the way I'd go

 

Ahh, got ya. I thought you meant it made it stronger, since you said it "resolved issues of weakness". It would be nice to find a actual fix to the problem instead of trading one potentially big inconvenience for a regular smaller inconvenience.

 

The loctite H4800 is probably the best solution for this type of joint. The primer/catalyst stuff will not work well without perfectly clean/smooth surface and in my experience with it, impact resistance is just ok and peel strength is lacking. I have never used any that was compatible with plastics, though. The H4800 is some seriously tough stuff, not brittle or super rigid, and designed for plastics/composites.

Edit: H4800 working temp range may be a bit narrow for this application. The tech specs chart states 77-180F, which I am pretty sure is not correct. The min working temp has to be lower than 77F. Loctite TDS won't download, so I can not verify.

 

W/O replacing the valve cover with a heavier duty piece, there really isn't much that can be done... maybe a support bracket. Easier to simply swap in the shorty and pick up one of the various funnels that screw into the Toyota oil fill cap location. A funnel is how it should be filled, sure it's fun and rewarding to pour a whole 5 quart container into that little hole w/o spilling, but I have better things to do.