TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Why do you have an LP turbine as your profile picture?

At my old workplace we had a Hitachi supercritical unit that broke a blade on that turbine. Lead time on a new one was 2 years. We ended up stealing one from another plant, though.

 

Anyone got a good wiring diagram for the headlight interior dimmer? Was gonna install my boost gauge and wanted to see if anyone had one handy.

 

Well, after spending so much to send it totally to shit, what's a few more $ to save more mpgs.

 

I work for a company that reblades and repairs turbines in power plants.

 

No wiring diagram but from info from my heated mirror kit instructions. The button illuminates and was tied into two wires (green = 12v hot with headlights on, green/white is variable ground) from another lighted switch.

 

I was under the impression it was more like the other way around. Meaning excessive heat is generated when there is a high load situation and the TC is not locked up.

In lock up, it's more equivalent to a manual being in gear with your foot off the clutch.

So, with manual control of the torque converter you could maybe find situations off road that you want to lock up in a lower gear for a steep climb, or in sand or other loose conditions. Towing heavy in the mountains would also be a nice time to have full control.

It would be cool to have a button on the shifter be able to kick it in whenever I wanted, but not sure if I'd use it that often.

 

It would generate excessive heat when in a high speed situation and not locked up as well, hence why the TCC even exists.

So it's sort of a lose lose in different scenarios, but a win win in others.

 

My point is excessive heat generation is not a concern when locked up, under any load or speed per my understanding of how it works.

It's more work to engage and disengage manually, but I'm not clear on why you are claiming it's a lose lose.

 

I probably won't buy the switch and will instead study the FSM to make my own. I'm hoping I can set up an electronics workshop at my new place in the next few months like I had a few years back. Then I may make my own 2LO plug and play module.

 

I'm not saying this as a smartass because what I'm about to say actually is curious in your understanding of how the system works (that's my disclaimer before coming off sounding argumentative, but actually not being)

But how is excessive heat generation not an issue when locked up in a low speed situation say a dyno run, or a wheeling and putting a high load on the engine, the reverse goes for towing on a hill in D while locked up? If the TCC acts like a clutch locked in a gear, then lugging a high gear from a low speed is not good for the clutch, in this case being the torque converter. I'm no expert on trannys, as the internal combustion engine has always been more my field of study, but that sounds like a recipe to fry your tranny early or see that nice "A/T temp" light turn on on our dash. I could be wrong, but like I said, I would like to know what your understanding is before reversing my thinking.

Automatic transmissions are a complex animal all of their own which is why I have never been big on doing rebuilds on them (outside of the valve body). A lot of internals at play all working in harmonious sync.

 

Sorry for the late reply...
Nah everything else is just standard. I’m actually in chats with my dyno bloke about installing a 1.8-1.9” pulley and then see what the numbers come back as. Just need to cut the snout right off and get the pulley milled up.
All I can think of is that it’s not a 2.5 currently on it. I might have my numbers confused. I’ll check and get back to you

 

Hey fellas, I’m in the process of getting a boost gauge.
Any idea what psi I should be getting with a 1.9” or close enough pulley? Just to give me a rough idea what I should be getting

 

I am going to guess around 14-15.

 

I think @Athlaos sees about 16lbs on his 1.87”

 

@australian hilux

Yeah 16psi for me. I like my 20psi gauge because it feels like I'm using most of it.

 

https://youtu.be/32I0Qso4sDg

Here you go guys. Enjoy.

 

How is your intake and exhaust? You may get dyno queen results as everything heat soaks quickly so the effectiveness of the smaller pulley could get washed out during play time, on a closed course, of course.

 

Your better off with the 60. Talk to Chase about the 9". I talked to him about having him build me a 9" for a F9 axle housing and he proceeded to give me the reasons why a 60 is far superior to the 9". Yes, the 9" looks cooler, but it is in no way stronger or better for a truck that is in the rocks.

 

The 60 housing and tubes are harder to truss than the 9”. Having a cab over the rear end, I don’t want to give up to much up travel. I’ll figure something out.

 

car?