Drive line angle advice

I have a 2019 Offroad.. There was a slight vibration when slowing down below 15mph. I now have a 2.75" front lift and 2" back lift. The same exact issue is still there. I did the angle measurements today and im looking for opinions on what to do next.

 

There are 4 ways to equalize your working angles.

A=0
B=C

C=0
A=B

B=0
A=C

A+B+C=0


Your diagram shows, as best as I can tell and assuming you zeroed at the transfer case:
A=3.8
B=2.3
C=-7.1

Using the A+B+C=0 method:
(3.8) + (2.3) + (-7.1)=-1

But then you have 2.3 as a pinion angle value at the bottom.

Are you using a square to measure off the flanges for the t.case and pinion?
What are your actual working angles for each u-joint

 

No I zero'd on the transfer case and measured all the way down the drive line. The 2.3 is the first shaft minus the second shaft.

 

I edited my previous post; I was off by one.
Still, you should be close enough, especially after axle wrap to be equalized.

Ahh...2.3 is your B working angle

What is the difference between:
A-t.case and 1st shaft
C-2nd shaft and pinion

 

At case and 1st shaft i got 7.9 ?

 

I really doubt it's 7.9.
Sorry to keep hammering you on this, but we need to make sure the values are accurate.
How about this?
In the diagram, the red represents a square placed on the t.case and pinion flanges.
The blue represents the level and measurements needed.
Zero on the bottom of the square at the t.case flange.
Take measurements with the level facing the same way(front/rear) at each location.

 

Ok im confused....Am I zeroing on the tc flange. Then measuring the first, second shaft and then the rear pinion? Thats what I did on the image uploaded.

 

Okay...
Considering it was there before and after, and angles appear good, I'd look elsewhere.

Is yours an automatic?
Does it go away if you use S3?

 

Nope its a manual... The vibration is there reguardless of brakes. I replaced the ecgs with the lift as well. Thank you so much for your help! I guess im missing measurements?

 

How are the rear leafs lifted? The measurements are quite hard to get, I would suggest a wedge shim on the axle, but 2.5 degree or 4 degree is the question. I would likely lean towards 2.5 degrees and see if it improves.

 

Good luck OP, subbed to learn a lil sumthin

 

No. If you did it like the diagram I posted, the measurements should be good.

The quick and dirty way is to shim the pinion 1° for every 1" of lift. I hesitate to advise that...to me, it's one step above guessing.

Does it go away with a good amount of weight in the bed?

 

The leafs are lifted with a 2" AAL from Wulf. I have not tried weight in the bed good idea! How much weight?

 

Enough to make a noticeable difference in ride height...maybe 300lbs or so.

My line of thinking is, under braking-type axle wrap the driveshaft slip joint is extending. Maybe too dry or hydro locked.

 

I was thinking maybe the factory leafs were causing axle wrap?

 

Axle wrap is just a given; how much or how bad will vary.

The bed weight won't tell the whole story, but it might get you closer.

For testing excessive axle wrap, you could try an additional spring keeper on the front of the springs.

 

Gotcha

 

Could you try 1/4" of washers under the carrier bearing and still have enough thread engagement just for a test drive? I just ask because when I lifted the 2nd gen I put the carrier bearing drop shims that were included with the kit. Just a idea to try ??

 

I tried the CB drop kit and it made the vibration horrible over 20 mph. Now I just have amall vibrations when slowing down only.

 

I found the CB drop to not be enough. I'd try the cb spacer plus some washers. I ended up around 3/4" of drop vs. the 3/8" the CB spacer provides to get rid of my vibes.
I did have to switch to longer CB mount bolts.