Redside Electric Plug-and-Play Switch Illumination Harnesses

Which wires would I tap for a dash cam switched power source? Or will your breakout harness have those wires?

Ted

 

Do you have an auto dimming mirror? There’s better connectors for that.

 

Yes the mirror is auto dimming and has a compass...

Thanks!

Ted

 

This is what you want:

$37 Dongar Dash Cam Power Adapter (12-pin Type A) - Compatible w Toyota Tacoma (15-23), select Highlander, Tundra, Sienna; Honda Ridgeline & more. USB Power, Connects to Rearview Mirror. Easy Install!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DMW3DML/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_rTt0FbZF55HGM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

Sign me up please..

 

It's impressive how quickly packages can move from one side of the nation to the other. So I've got enough materials to build 12 kits now. The rest will follow Monday. These will have all black wires with little heat shrink labels to indicate (+) and (-)

@Tarnold77
@Boswell
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@jakeworthy
@fatboyfirebass
@79CHKCHK
@kent50
@Jaime.portillo
@Gus87
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@siniquezu
@get-er-dirty

I will send you a PM for funds and I am estimating to ship them out Saturday. I'll give 24 hours to respond before moving down the list. If you don't respond within 24 I'll just place you in next week's batch. Thanks all!

 

Can you add me to the next list, please?

 

Thanks - I didn't know there was such a thing as this!

However what I am thinking of doing is to gut the 12V adapter that came with the dash cam, hard wire the innards to the switched 12V source, and then solder the usb cable to the output to the cam. I'd then put this inside the overhead console. I am somewhat obsessed with clean neat installs, and I'll take the time and effort to hide wires as much as possible.

Or is that getting too carried away

Ted

 

Wow that sounds like a lot of effort. I have this plug for my mirror and its out of sight out of mind. Easy peasy.

 

A six inch or so USB cable would be a million times simpler.

 

ME TOO ..ME TOO....

just what is needed to clean up my switch wiring

 

I’d like to be added to the list too please and thank you! Great idea.

 

I agree, you'll still see some wire. I can't see the plug for the power behind the mirror and I ran both of my wires up under the headliner. About as clean as it gets.

 

@LJTacoma
@El Taco Blanco
@Newlyofftheground

PM incoming - please respond within 24 hours. The three who did not respond within 24 hours have been reshuffled to the next batch for next week (I understand not everyone checks this forum every day). Thanks again everyone!

 

More than a few people have asked me about daisy-chaining for a situation such as using a larger switch panel. A few members have already posted a couple options in this thread but I figured I'd throw-in my own two cents. One option that is readily available to just about everyone is to use spade terminals. What you can do is twist all of the illumination (+) wires from your switches together and do the same (but separately) for the illumination (-). From there you would crimp a female spade terminal to all of them and then crimp a male spade terminal onto the end of my harness. It'd be a fairly clean plug-and-play solution. Here's an example of how I used to do it in the past:



Since then I've upgraded a bit and have gotten into more robust (and isolated) work. Just an example -- if you have the tools -- you can de-pin those CH4x4 switches and get new contacts for them. I daisy-chained jumper wires to some new CH4x4 contacts and attached those to my cargo light illumination harness. Instead of using standard spade terminals I upgraded to open-barrel spade terminals with housings to allow for quick releases. The male ends have matching housings and run to my fuse box (for 12 V), or to my relay panel inside of the engine room. This allows me to very quickly get the switch panel off if I need to service it.



Hope this helps and/or provides some inspiration.

 

Just sent payment

 

That is beautiful.

 

First batch is done and ready to go! The positive illumination lead has a red piece of heat shrink on it to make it easier to ID. You will also notice that on the actual harness the two breakout sections have longer leads than the rest — this is by design to allow for some strain relief on those breakout pins. This is why it will look a little odd if you were to straighten out the harness. I tried to bend the harnesses at the angle that fit my truck the best but I imagine you will do whatever works for you! Let me know if you have questions or issues when they arrive. Expect PMs with tracking in the morning.

 

Dooope. This is going to make for one clean install. Thanks brah!

 

Wow nice! I would love to be on the next list too please!!