Brake pedal binding

Talked to the owner of the dealership today and he said it was normal the binding at the start because of the two switches and all the tacomas are like that with push button start. Just have to get used to it.

 

My question would have been 'why did they make the Tacoma different than the other Toyota push button start units'?

Because I have a '14 RAV4, recently drove a '12 Highlander and an '11 RX350, all smart key/push button, none with your brake feel.

Guess what I'm saying is, I ain't buying his story.

 

But its actually a bind after the switches. I watched mine as the linkage moved the switches had already been released. I was driving yesterday about 60 miles a lot of errands and a few times the bind was pretty stiff I had to apply more pressure and it’s starting to feel like a light pop to get past the bind. One thing I was playing with is. If I brake and like I do on most cars is my foot is more on the right side of the pedal closest to the gas pedal. Now if I I side my foot over and brake with my foot over in the left outermost part of the pedal it does not do it as much. Makes me think with that linkage I pointed out slide from side to side and now braking on the other side of the pedal that a bushing or play is evident. It is not the switches.

 

I backed off the nut just slightly on the pivot bolt for the brake pedal arm(12mm bolt head and nut). Seems to be much better(less binding). The nut should be a hug, lock, nylock type so it shouldn't work it's way of the bolt. I'll try it for now since it is definitely better. This should be adjusted a bit better during assembly.

 

I've experienced this issue too. I just felt that's how it's supposed to work so I didn't pay much attention to it. Let me know if you guys think I should take the Taco in to get it looked at.

 

A little info/comparison to add...

 

@splitbolt you think the adjustment to the switch is binding the pedal? They stated that it is a bind after the switch.

 

Wonder if a small nylon or rubber bushing could be slid over to fill that gap. Keep lubed...etc.

 

Guys this is exactly what I’m experiencing. Also my dealer says that they don’t feel it. I was actually thinking of the same idea with some kind of soft spacer in there. A TSB on this would be nice, I can’t imagine that a fix would be that hard. Maybe a nylon bushing in there to keep the pin from sliding or just a shorter pin all together. I tried to crawl up under there, I was able to see it and it is well lubed but man my old guy body was contorted to the max just trying to see it.
My thread...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/posts/21788102/

Please if anyone has a 100% fix on this I’d love to hear it.

 

I sent you a message, a conversation? Still feeling out the waters here but is a conversation here like a private message?
Anyway I was curious as to which bolt you backed off? I see two of them there, one near the firewall and one towards the drivers seat. The one near the firewall has a lock nut but I believe but the one near the front seat has a normal nut. How far did you back it out? The one near the firewall is close to the plastic cover on the steering column, I’m assuming that’s the one that you slightly loosened, yes?
Thanks

 

Well I backed off the pivot nuts just a little bit, no real difference, actually seems like it might have made it occur a little more often so I’ll turn them back to where they were. It was worth a shot I guess.
While this is an annoying characteristic it’s good to know that there are others experiencing the exact same thing.
Hopefully there’s a cure in the works but I’m not holding my breath. I’d be interested to see if the new 2020’s will have the same issue. I’ll try to remember to bump this thread in a couple months after there are some 2020’s on the road.
So for now I’ll live with it like everyone else, other than that hiccup I’m just loving this vehicle. Folding under bumper step coming today. Two weeks ago I got cornstalks for my wife to decorate the porch. Man let me tell you I looked like a fat old guy (which I am I guess) trying to climb a greased pole as I was attempting to get in the bed with the tailgate down, not pretty.

 

Splitbolt,

Thanks for the diagrams, helped me fix my 'lights on in the driveway' issue.

Pat

 

I bought two M8-1.25 pozi-lok-nylon stop nuts from Home Depot. I replaced both flange nuts and left the new nuts a little loose(nuts shouldn't work their way off the threads). It is a definite improvement that I can now live with(just a fine bind). I'll will update if any thing should arise and probably post down the road on the main thread I created. When I was removing the stock nuts I heard a popping sound which I believe was the two brackets(sides of the whole brake unit) spreading open relieving pressure on the bolts and collars. I have since put 2000kms(1200miles) on it since nut replacement and it is much improved and the brake pedal is much faster to return to the rest position after being pushed. I'll keep tightening nuts every so often until it starts binding again and then back off just a hair.

 

Good to know, mine hasn’t gotten any better or worse, I guess I’ve kind of gotten used to it. I still can’t believe that Toyota hasn’t come up with a fix for this. I’m at just under 8K.

 

I noticed this on mine when I first bought her .. after time it went away and have not had any braking issues .Take it to the dealer to look at it if u feel its a safety concern if they say its normal its on them . If u mess with it u will be responsible .

 

Just an update.

Since replacing the nuts 9 months ago it is definitely better and well worth the $1 and five minutes time.

 

I’m at 12500 and it’s definitely better than it was, sometimes doesn’t do it at all.

 

I think it depends how tight the installers put the nuts. Each truck made would all be a little different.

Now to get the fuel pump replaced due to safety recall. At that time I hope to get the ECU re-flashed(re-calibrated)per TSB-0092-20. The truck is having the same issues as others have mentioned.