Snapping a stud

This just happened.... anyone how much it cost to get this fix? Or the part

Was rotating my tire... almost done and boom!

 

Front? Rear?

 

If you have the time and can get to an auto parts store. Dorman makes replacement studs that fit. You basically have to pull the tire off. Pull the caliper/disk off if it’s the front or the drum off if it’s the back. Then hammer the old stud out.

 

Rear

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TtNb9wKG08U&feature=emb_title

 

Your lucky you broke the rear stud. There’s plenty of room to hammer out the broken stud and put a new one in. If it was the front, you might need to remove the axle nut if you have one and pull the hub out without damaging the bearing.

 

We call that farm tight here in Nebraska. That or spot torqued....pull on that lug wrench until you see spots. Seriously though, if your a DIY person it's not a difficult fix. Check that video linked, or others.

 

That stinks after going through the trouble. The tacoma only needs 85ft lbs of torque. Harbor Freight sells their torque wrench on sale for $10. I highly recommend, it's really good for the price and perfect for jobs like this. Also, they have affordable punches if there isn't much thread left on the bolt. Good luck

 

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-29967-610-2661.aspx?origin=keyword

 

Ty sir!!

 

I have a habor freight torque wrench too!! I rotated my tire at my buddy place.

 

I'm not ashamed to admit because I've never broke a stud off or lost a wheel and tire, but I've never used a torque wrench. That's in my near 40 years of wrenching. A good exercise might be next time at home, torque those lug nuts up to 75-80 pounds (if that is correct spec) then take whatever wrench you might use normally, and see what 75-80 lb. Feels like to turn slightly more. Edit to add should have said a torque wrench on a lug nut...I've used them many times and own a couple.

 

It’s a learning experience!!! I’ll probably do it myself.

Just want all the new heads to learn from my experience hahaya

 

I'm the same, but since I bought the torque wrench might as well use it. Cheap insurance to not cause damage to the nut, lug, or rotor/ drum.

 

Not a bad idea at all. I work with some top notch mechanics, one of which went to goodwrench college program, he looked at me strange when I told him I don't use a torque wrench. Like you said, if you got it use it. I have went to unloosen lug nuts a time or two after having my tires rotated somewhere and almost burst a blood vessel trying to get the bloody lug nut off!

 

I use torque wrenches too much at work so I've got a calibrated wrist/ elbow. Ft lbs and inch lbs

 

As others have said, buy a torque wrench. Loosen and torque the other lugs when you get one. Buy OEM stud not a cheap one.

 

Sometime in the past year we were tightening something (flange, heat exchanger cover, valve bonnet) I don't recall. But after I tightened it by hand they put the torque wrench on it and got a degree or 2 more of a turn on it. I think a supervisor was watching and comment that's pretty darn good. I replied, lucky.

 

Had this happen to me - the Capri torque wrench didn't click if I cranked down on it too slowly... Buy a torque wrench with an internal ball bearing mechanism that has less stiction.

Fortunately the wheel stud itself is cheap, $10 for a box of 10: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1060129&jsn=16

Protip: When drawing in the stud, use an open-ended full-size lugnut such as Dorman 711832. Install the lugnut with the flat face toward the hub flange. This ensures the stud will be drawn in square with the hub flange. Discard the lugnut after use. And thoroughly clean off any lube on the stud with brake cleaner.

 

Nope not required. Just pull off the brake rotor and there's enough room to maneuver stock-length studs onto the hub flange.