Is my transmission done?

Hey everyone
So I've had my taco for just over a year
She's a 2014 Trail team edition trd, 2" lift, 33" mt tires.
So over the Christmas holidays I went for a cruise through some knee high snow and got stuck. She had to sit for a few days until I could arrange a machine to tow me out.
When we were about 600ft from freedom the truck lost drive, still has reverse, and I had to get it towed back in.
It gave me the p2714 code which I've looked into but I'd just like to hear some thoughts.

What do you think? Is my transmission cooked or should I try to save it?

Oh and the traction control light is on solid as well.

Thanks in advance

 

I’d start looking for that stimulus check.

 

Spitdog
You think she's cooked too eh?

 

Look here, @gearcruncher has a good writeup about this transmission.

 

She’s a goner I’m afraid.


P2714 Possible Causes

• Low transmission fluid level
• Dirty transmission fluid
• Faulty line pressure solenoid valve 'D'
• Line pressure solenoid valve 'D' harness is open or shorted
• Line pressure solenoid valve 'D' circuit poor electrical connection

 

I would have a sniff at the trans fluid .
If you were that deep , is there a chance you tore some wiring off the transmission ?
How long did you go from forward to reverse without allowing the trans to cool ?
This is the most important part when you get stuck ^^^^^^^
Gotta throw the shifter in park and allow the temps to drop with the engine running .

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...th-pics-for-second-gen-4-liter-trucks.289913/

 

Get it looked at by a pro. It could be fried, or you could have a wire shorted or loose. Look for simple solutions 1st. My bet is something simple.

 

Not quite sure what you mean there.
I wasn't slamming between gears I would make sure everything was at complete stop and rpms down.
It took about 8 hours to get it out with the help of a tracked machine. The at oil temp light did come on once but we stopped and let it cool down.

 

Heat kills transmissions... stuck in snow, mud or anything that you gotta rock back and forth several times for a long period of time builds heat and well.... ends up costing some dollars to repair or replace ....

 

I wouldnt rely on that light as a good source to inform you that you are cooking your transmission fluid . That light pops up at almost 300 degrees . I really wish Toyota would fire up the high temp light a lot sooner . Maybe 240 degrees .
Sorry if my post made it looked like I was accusing you of banging between gears in deep snow . It was my way of hoping you didnt bang between gears in deep snow as well as asking if you did .Your user name didnt help my judgement lol
Now we know you didnt bang between gears and can proceed to the next step to help you diagnose your issue
.
Next .. stay as far away from the stealership as possible .
Are you up to working on this yourself ? I can walk you through diagnostics but it may require removing the transmission pan

 

I would like to fix it own my own.
I currently have it at a garage that I'm friends with to let them have a quick look at it.
I no stranger to getting my hands dirty, nor am I afraid to take on any challenge.

 

Try this first and it should help us figure out if you have broken wiring

Attempt to clear the codes with the ignition in the on position , not with the engine running .
Do the codes come back with the ignition in the on position and truck not running ?

Your trans was due for a transmission service at 60K . I forgot to ask what your mileage is ?
Assuming your trail team is a 4x4 ?

 

The code cleared and has not come back.
I picked up the truck with 65k kms it is now at 82k. I picked it up from a dealership, but I didn't check if it was done.
My truck is 4x4

 

Dam !!

I was hoping for a broken wire
I am assuming if you start the truck , she wont move forward ?

If your truck was in my shop , I would start the truck allowing it to warm up a little and pull the transmission overflow bolt with the truck running which would verify the transmission had a full level .
You should get a trickle of fluid . If you dont get a trickle with the engine running ....It was low on fluid
They do come from the factory very low on fluid . Keep an eye out for fluid on the outside of the transmission . When a transmission gets that hot , fluid can puke out the vent .
Need to grab an oil sample to determine the contamination level but as mentioned above , I believe your C1 clutching is cooked from an overheat condition at this point in time .
To determine how much damage is done , you would have to pull the pan .
Once the pan is removed , your answer is going to be laying in the bottom of the pan . All kinds of clutch contamination .
Sometimes the filter gets all plugged with clutch material and prevents the C1 clutch from getting enough oil . After being towed , that contamination falls out of the transmission filter to the bottom of the pan and the truck moves forward on the next start up .
Another possibility is the solenoids getting stuck from the clutch material travelling through your valve body . Your reverse clutch does not use solenoids .
If the bottom of the pan is clean , you have a chance at decontaminating the valve body which would get you forward applications again . This is speculation mind you . The pan needs to be removed next

 

I highly suggest a scan gauge to monitor your transmission temps . If you are considering slow runs in deep snow , a transmission cooler with an electric fan will really help .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...l-toyotas-write-up-with-many-pictures.526283/

 

@gearcruncher
How long did you go from forward to reverse without allowing the trans to cool ?
This is the most important part when you get stuck ^^^^^^^
Gotta throw the shifter in park and allow the temps to drop with the engine running .

Does this apply to manual transmissions too?

 

If it spent 8 hours with the torque converter unlocked at low speeds and high load, it's very likely that the trans fluid overcooked.

No. Manual transmissions don't rely on fluid cycling as part of slipping the coupling to the engine. Automatic transmissions, when driven at speeds lower than the selected drive gear, allow their torque converters to slip by venting pressurized trans fluid back to the pickup. However, there's only a finite amount of this fluid available in the system so eventually it runs out of heat capacity and cooks. That's why it's always a good idea to shift into 4LO at low speeds, even if the trail is easy. The torque converter spends more time locked into gear and less ATF is heat cycled, saving wear and tear on your transmission. This is why some install trans coolers for towing, it adds extra heat capacity and insurance for towing up long grades where the torque converter may be unlocked to maintain speed.

The method for manual transmissions to operate at speeds lower than the selected gear is by slipping or feathering the clutch. This is also not ideal, as you will wear out the friction material on your clutch disc (or warp the pressure plate from heat). That's why it's also good to go into 4LO at low trail speeds, to avoid overworking your clutch.

 

@gearcruncher
It moved forward today. I let it sit for a full 24hrs, tested it today and it would move but only if I bumped the rpms to 2500. The shop is open tomorrow and they will have a better answer for me then hopefully

 

Good luck op.... but sounds expensive if ya gotta throttle up to make it move

 

Since it didn't move forward at all yesterday I'm trying to stay positive