How to: DIY Wedge Camper

for anyone doing their own bends/brakes I've used these

$79 KAKA INDUSTRIAL BDS-8, 8"es Vise Mount Metal Brake Bender Attachment Bending Sheet Metal Vice Brake

https://www.amazon.com/KAKA-BDS-8-Inches-Sheet-Metal/dp/B015U7JK0I (not this specific one but similar)
they work well, but are limited to small sizes
or if you have a harbor freight shop press these are suppose to be great (just got one haven't had time to assemble it yet)
https://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-20-TON-Finger-Brake-Heavy-Duty-DIY-Builder-Kit_p_86.html

 

I'm in a fairly rural area, so getting more tubing can be a pain. Apparently I didn't get enough 1½ square tubing, and am short one piece on the top of the space frame. Can I substitute a single 1½" tube along the middle for a pair of 1" tubes? Should I divide the are by 3 or center them more?

 

Some actions shots of the Rig. I am happy with how most everything turned out. The biggest gripe I have with my handy work is the sewing. Mine is all aluminum and landed about 170 ish lbs. its extra long so with the full size bed extended I have about 22 inches of standing room in the bed. I only enter through the bed. Now Im working on my short prinsu rack for a wind deflector.

 

Thoughts on using steel for the Lower portion of the tent platform? Then aluminum tube for the hinged roof framing. Seems like it would be sufficient for the 3-4' overhang with some additional bracing.. and allot cheaper than all 8020?

 

That looks fantastic! Love the truck!

 

ordered a Tepui Ayer anti condensation mat for my build
looks like there is one more open box one from Amazon

Thule Tepui Anti-Condensation Mat for Ayer 2 One Color, One Size

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084LN4YBH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1

 

I used a

$240 Brother CS7000X Computerized Sewing and Quilting Machine, 70 Built-in Stitches, LCD Display, Wide Table, 10 Included Feet, White

Brother CS7000X. Did the job just fine. Although, the bigger the machine you can get with more space under the arm, the easier your life will be.

Might be cheaper, but then you will have to solve for mounting of the keder rail, latches and struts without water intrusion. Plus you lose all the utility of the ability to mount things inside and out via the channels in the 80/20 without making permanent holes.

 

I don't have dimensions, but my Jig cost was 85.11 and I had some leftover screws and ties.

 

Darn, in a few pages back Ripcord was going to update the files so they have the bend lines


Also I too am curious on the welding jig. I’m sure I can save a ton of money by assembling it with pocket holes instead of brackets

any sort of sewing machine should work. My wife made me a California king sized quilt on her $90 singer sewing machine. Anything is possible

 

I didn't use a jig.

I made the upper section rectangle, then the lower U clamped, tacked and carefully welded to maintain 90 degree corners

I took some boards and screwed cross pieces and clamped it to the upper section.

I then tacked the "verticals" and made sure it stayed square as I welded it out. Everything stayed close enough.

 

@Ripcord , add anything else to seal the roof panel other than the rubber strips in-between the t-nuts?

I'm wondering if a small bead of silicone is necessary to keep out the water.

Anyone else have any good tips for waterproofing the roof panel?

 

I added a line of silicone and I know a few others did as well. Isn’t going to hurt, but do have to get the bolts in somewhat quickly.

 

Did anyone silicone their corner pieces in? I think that’s the source of water intrusion when things get reallly wet, such as driving in decent rain and power washing it. Seems like it’s getting into the channel and then dripping in through the bolts

 

Ended up ditching the rubber strips (McMaster-Carr # 5537T871)

Save yourself $60 in the build and just lay a thin bead of silicone on each side of the extrusion. Sealed up great!

Also worth mentioning my process for mounting the roof:

-Preload and space out t-nuts (I did a bolt every 8")

-drill holes in roof panel (measure 3/4'' inward and draw a line, 'x' off where you want to mount the bolts). I used a 21/64 bit instead of 3/8 which seemed too big in the test holes drilled.

-Dry fit the roof panel. It's tedious, but once you mount it up dry- you'll be able to make adjustments, file out holes to fit, etc. without the stress of the roof laying on wet silicone.

- Remove paenl, Lay a thin bead of silicone on each side of the extrusion. (I did a standard duty clear as I don't want it to 'glue' the panel to the extrusion, just keep out water)

-With help, lay down the panel, align it, and screw in the bolts.

Hope this helps someone!

 

Use silicone. I had huge water intrusion issues in the corners. To a point where I had a small pool lol. Extra on the corners and a neat thin line on the inside perimeter, lower and upper portions.

 

Hey dudes, I'm still looking to offload my project in case anyone is interested! Shoot me a DM if you are. I'm in Salt Lake City

Built for a 3rd gen, but I'm pretty sure it would fit a 2nd gen as well.

 

@Ripcord do you have any measurements or plans for the jig you used for the spaceframe?

 

He doesn’t but you can derive all of the necessary dimensions from the plans for the camper itself. It’s extra work but part of the build process. I’m hopefully building my jig this coming weekend.

 

This is an awesome project! Just a matter of learning how to weld or find someone that can at least do that part of it for me.

 

Learn yourself, it isn’t as difficult as you think. I welded mine with a $175 harbor freight welder