007 TACO PRO ....

Theory building .......... i got air trapped in the master cylinder as when i did the rear bearings i had to remove the wheel cylinder and i did not cap it so it bleed out. the master cylinder is split into two with a divider to separate the front and rear fluid res. this is a safety feature as if your rear brakes fail you will not loose all the fluid and you will still have front brakes.

i have a horbal pedal due to not getting all the air out despite having tried two times to bleed it

there is a brake switch on the pedal that also controls the brake override like @sparkystaco mentioned. you cant press on the gas and the brake the same time or it will go into limp mode with no response from the throttle ( i have experienced this when i had my winter ski doo boots on a few years ago and ended up hitting both at the same time).

maybe the air in my brake line causing my bad mushy pedal is not making proper contact with this switch and the truck thinks i am pressing on both the same time and putting the truck into a condition of no throttle response.

 

I'm still alive! I often tell myself i got to keep on surfing TW, but since i got the company car and dont use my truck that much, i need to do less on it, so less tacomaworld lol how's
life??

 

@Kemosabe life is good parker is growing up way 2 fast and follows me around when i am out fixing stuff, he takes a wrench and pretends to be fixing things also .... hope all is well with you my friend

 

Baby p dressed up for daycare

 

Life's awesome right now wish you and your family a happy Christmas!

 

https://youtu.be/Is1frJWbeIs

 

Abs code pulling

 

Any clues as to shitty brakes?

 

soooo

I bled the brakes 3 times with a fair amount of driving in between every time. Got air each time. I think air gets trapped in the abs unit. Will bleed again in a week or so. Pedal is way better.

My abs light is on I pulled the code and need all new sensors

My red brake light is on fluid is topped up and hand brake is off. I disconnected the fluid sensor and the hand brake but the light did not go off. It’s possible the Sensor float is stuck.

The loss of throttle is still happening so when it does happen I pull up on the brake pedal and throttle comes back. I took the brake switch out and cleaned up the contacts.

Fingers crossed

 

Don't know if it will help but try this,
get up to 35,40mph on a slippery road or gravel and stomp on the brakes making the ABS cycle to try and push the air out. Then bleed again.

wasn't a fix-all but helped when my brakes were messed up.

 

This could be part of my problem abs is not working due to wheel sensors so air might be caught in the abs unit ?

 

Did you get this throttle issue cleared up with cleaning the switch? I am having throttle loss too and my brake lights stay on at time until I wiggle the pedal.

 

@Micatom33

It hasn’t happened since knock on wood !

 

@Micatom33 very simple to do let me know how you make out with it

 

Well got to drive about 80 miles today and no throttle loss issues after adjusting the switch

 

@Micatom33 did you take it apart or just adjust it ?

 

just adjust also ordered a new one just in case

 

I bought that myself!
then on Dec 26th the 20T went on sale for a few $$'s more. so naturally I bought that one too. "free shipping" but when the wharehouse tried to ship it, I guess their shipping company wnated to change them $200 just for shipping!! they wanted to pass the bill to me, so I cancelled the order.

I was sad, but still happy when the 12T showed up.
and if anyone is wondering.... there must be a pretty signifigant difference in the materials used between the 12T and the 20T. the weight difference was about 100lbs!