OVTune 3.5L Tacoma Supercharger and Twin Turbo Systems

The kit in question is the Powermax's, but if I remember right they're good to go on base boost (7psi) with stock injectors, didn't realize Matt's truck had a TRD exhaust on it too. I believe I'd be good to go without injectors then

 

Oh sorry, I missed the bit about the powermax upgrade.

 

Hate to change the subject, but I finally got the last piece of my PCV system and wanted to share. After a lot of thought and concern about oil getting into the turbo vanes from the breather I added a second can just to be safe. Keep in mind that I've got mine set up for dual intakes so I won't have the factory intake box in the way, so I just made a bracket to mount the two cans over there beside where one of my filters will sit.

Up front, keep in mind not all my lines are cut to size since I don't have the turbos or intake piping set up for final termination.

Below you can see with the intake manifold off so you can see the line routing. Red is going/coming from the PCV Breather on the driver Valve cover. Green is going to the bottom of the intake manifold. This line doesn't have it at the moment, but will have a one way check valve to keep air from coming out of the intake manifold under boost (boost leak)



This next picture has the blue line (the vacant one above) coming from the can and going to the intake pipe. This one will connect between the filter and the turbo. This line also has a one way check valve just after the can to prevent any air from going back into the can from the intake (this has to be before the Tee). Now on the second can, there are two ports. The Yellow line is coming from the passenger valve cover breather. This is a two way line so no check valve needed. The purple line goes into a Tee on the blue line so that it also gets connected to the intake pipe (also a two way line). This allows the intake to pull suction on the valve cover as needed, or inversely allow the crankcase to pull air in under boost (if needed). Side note, check valves should always be flowing away -> from the can.




Both of my cans have quick drain fittings on the bottom with a Tee'd drain line that goes under the truck, so when I need to drain both cans, I just put a pan under the one line and turn both valves, which are easily accessible with the hood open.



Something to keep in mind when setting anything like this up, secure all lines everywhere. Something as simple as a random aluminum bracket, or anything could over time rub a hole in something critical. My firewall hoses practically touch my brake lines so I secured them all with clips and mounting tabs to keep everything from rubbing. And yes, those zip ties holding my battery cables to the main harness are temporary.

 

Looks well thought out. Good job!

 

@OVTune iirc you'd offered me your phone number recently to work with the shop on going over the install with them. Is that offer still on the table? Just emailed you about it.

 

I have no fight in this because I have a 2nd Gen. But I've enjoyed following Mat's innovative project/product and it sucks to heard about your runaround @mZiggy

I know a little bit about turbo installs and also a little bit about cardiac catheterization (parent of CHD child).

Your truck is being held under extended anesthesia right now due to complications during surgery. And the medical team is stretched to thin due to absence from Covid or reassigned to other procedures. If this was a cardiac cath, the team of doctors would have escalated or they would have halted and brought the patient back. In my experience, when cars/trucks are left at a shop for an extended unexcused amount of time...sh*t happens. Theft, scratches, lost parts, etc...

But i understand your hands are tied. Do you have a extremely knowledgable car/truck buddy that can go with you to confirm or question their work? Maybe that will show them that your faith in the shop is waning...

 

I might. I think everyone I know is roughly around my level of knowledge. Capable of following a set of instructions provided, but not a mechanic by any means. I'll probably have to ask around I suppose.

 

Check out the first post. It breaks it down nicely.

 

Do you really feel like that first post covers his questions?

I’ve reread that post a few times, including the link, I see absolutely nothing on PSI WRT DI requirements.

 

It used to say something. But bottom line at 7psi regardless of turbos you do not need the DI upgrade. Its not about which turbos you have but about how much boost you want to run. Once you start reaching around 10psi (unless im remembering wrong) you reach the factory fuel systems limit and the following has to happen:

Powermax: upgrade DI and you can raise the boost past 10psi.

Base: moot point, the base turbo cant flow past 10psi so DI is not needed at any point.

Regardless of which turbos you have, if you stay at 7psi you don't need DI. if you dont plan on going past 10psi you don't need powermax.

At 7psi you are better off with base turbos since they will be more responsive. You will get a tiny bit more lag with powermax so you wont see benefit until later boost pressures / capability for more boost.

Hope that makes sense.

 

Wayyy off subject. @OVTune i sent email about just getting my tatrix cable I ordered when you had us purchase fuel pump if we desired. Any way I can get that so I can play with tuning. A few months of playing around with tuning have been lost and I feel like it’s probably a few more before the kit comes I just want to mess with that to keep me occupied haha. Thank you

 

It’s a New Year and came back to this thread hoping to see some twin turbo vids

 

Yeah shouldn’t matter what turbos you run but once you exceed that
9-10psi is where the low pressure pump has issues keeping up then next up is the limits of the DI’s, I think.
I believe according to Mat, the base turbos can run in the high teens (with pump and DI), but isn’t efficient and is dangerous due to heat past 14psi.

 

@OVTune
Do you think this will keep bank 1 from leaning out @ 10+ psi? The bend is a bit crude using .065 wall, .035 should do better (.180” ID). Working pressure is 5k+ psi, so no issues. I ended up welding the fittings in just for good measure.

 

assuming the welds won't break because it's cast (that was my only fear welding mine), that should work really well to stabilize fuel pressure.

maximum PSI the system sees is around 3500-3600psi during decel.


have you installed them in your truck yet?

 

Well done.

 

That's an elegant solution, I like it. Nicely done

 

I used 308L filler rod, worked really well to blend everything in with the base metal (correct filler for this application). Fitting is 316 SS. The rail seems to be CF8.

 

it should work perfectly.

 

Not yet. I bought a spare rail to try it on first. Trying to come up with a way to pressure test it.