Preparing , preparing , you're always preparing . OZ-T's "Just build the damn shop already build ".

Was actually going to post an update today haha

Machine came yesterday and we trenched from building to drop pole and installed the electrical conduit as well as connecting the waterline and septic pump line . Got that all installed and backfilled yesterday , not really any pics as I was Ditch Bitch yesterday and had my hands full trying to stay ahead of machine with the pipework

Today electricians came back and we pulled tel / cable into building , plus got hard measurement to order main power service cable and I had them add another 220V plug for a potential future tool and alter some light switching . Once new service mast is installed I can apply to power authority to hook up new service for shop

I can now move on to insulating , need to talk my insulation sub contractor and see when he can come by

 

So my insulation guy is likely to come end of next week so I'm finishing up last few details inside that need to be done before he arrives

Using SIGA Rissan air sealing tape to seal up wiring entry to plastic vapour barrier boxes in exterior walls





Also using SIGA Rissan to seal up wiring penetrations through 6mil poly vapour barrier that runs behind my 200A electrical panel




Few other things I need to do for him is install venting through wall for bathroom exhaust fan and fresh air intake for woodstove , vacuum all stud bays and clean all my shit out of inside of shop so he can roll around on scaffolding

Should probably only take him a day to insulate and install vapour barrier in there

 

Ironic for me this posting today. Just a couple hours ago I was reaching down to plug something into an outlet on the perimeter wall in the house and thought it must be 5-10 degrees colder directly in front of this outlet, what the hell is going on? Guess that explains it.

 

Building code here requires the foam gasket plastic vapour barrier boxes for exterior walls or a plastic boot around a metal box . The foam gasket around the face of the box seals the vapour barrier to the backside of the drywall when it is installed . The plastic vapour barrier boxes also have a foam material that is intended to seal around the wiring penetrations which it sort of does but doesn't do a great job in all cases , especially if the electricians pull the wire into the box at an angle or tear an oversize hole in the foam when inserting the wire into the box . These holes allow outside air into the conditioned space through the plug or switch and cover so I'm just adding some extra air sealing with the SIGA Rissan tape .

 

I’d like to have seen a code book from 1932 when my house was built

 

What code book.

Edit: may have found an answer. In the US 1905
https://www.motherearthnews.com/green-homes/building-codes-zmaz06djzraw

 

Dialed it in a little closer.

 

My insulator bud dropped off material and had a recon of the shop today , he expects to be back Monday to install insulation and vapour barrier

 

I have a bit of a progressional change I've decided to make re the double 4' carriage doors on the front of the building .

Without getting too deep in the weeds , under our current BC Building Code , any building that has plumbing must be heated , and any building that is heated must comply fully with all provisions of Part 9 of the code . Part 9 requires all heated buildings to conform to all provisions regarding air barriers / vapour barriers and insulation values .

So long story short my shop must be air sealed and insulated to the same requirements as any currently built new home (I'm actually insulating above code requirements) , but further to that , all windows and doors must be NAFS compliant which is an air tightness standard for doors and windows .

There is an exception in the code wording for "vehicle access doors" basically because overhead garage doors are not really able to be built and installed to meet the NAFS standard .

I have had 2 differing opinions from my local building inspection department on whether my carriage doors on the front of the building would be viewed as "vehicle access doors" . If they are considered to be "vehicle access doors" , they are exempt from needing to be NAFS compliant , which means I can build them myself , however if they are deemed to not qualify as "vehicle access doors" then they need to be NAFS compliant , I can't build them myself and I priced them out at $9000 CDN .

My new plan is to frame in that opening temporarily , insulate and drywall it on the interior and side over it on the exterior .

After my final inspection on the building , I can build the doors myself and install them on my own schedule and in the mean time the shop can be heated and completed .

 

You're 8' wide and what looks to be 9' tall, and have driveway access. Don't know how that could not be considered a vehicle access door? Its clearly not a living space, rather a garage/shop setup. Seems like 3x the work to bypass the possible conflict.

 

8' wide , 8' high . I think its more likely that I could get them passed as vehicle access doors but there is another consideration in this equation I didn't mention and thats that I feel like I'm going to bump up against some time constraints with a new client build I'm scheduled to start soon . Framing in the door is a 1 hour job , extra material for temporary "patch" is 10/8' 2x6 studs , 2 sheets of plywood (all re-useable) and 2/8' sheets of drywall . The corrugated siding is screwed on so that can come off and be re-instated around the door . I just feel like I would be further ahead to have the interior completed so I can set up tools in there and leave the doors for now till I have more time

 

Santa left your pencils in my stocking by accident. PM me your address and I will send them to you.

 

I'm sure they aren't mine. That's for sure.

 

As soon as you sharpen them you are just damn goo

 

Then damn, just in time for your first big mistake.

 

I’d toss ‘em while they still said “I am good”.

But that begs the question “Good for what?”.