GUYS!! need to know what else to buy with bearings

New black "grease cap" on the hub as it's 50/50 you'll mangle the existing one chiseling it off the first time doing the job
New cotter pin for the axle nut (dealer or local auto parts / tractor supply store).

There's a rubber O-ring between the bearing housing and the knuckle. It's easy to replace. A new O-ring is often included with the hub/bearing assembly:



There's a seal on the back side of the knuckle interfacing with a mating seal on the CV joint. These are dynamic seals. Replacing either of these seals increases the job time by a factor of 2-3, requiring you to pull the knuckle away from the CV axle. Installing the seals are also a pain because they are large-diameter and thin section, so easy to mangle. I would visually inspect the seals and leave them in unless you find tears or chunks missing. Put some grease on the rubber mating surfaces, to reduce wear as the CV axle turns.

 

My bearing (~$60) came with a new O-ring.
I re-used the CV dust seals still on the truck because I felt like quickly replacing the worn bearing, and not turning the job into an all day affair

as explained by this post:

 

I have various old tapered roller bearing races and I found 1 the fit the knuckle seal and pounded it in. For the CV seal, I machined out a driver on the lathe.

However, I vaguely remember on here where someone posted that they used the old CV seal to pound in the knuckle seal and the old knuckle seal to pound on the CV seal. Use that information at your own risk, since I have no experience with how well that works.

 

I think the $120 bearing / hub assemblies are part of the reason you're replacing them so often.

 

I just did my passenger side this afternoon. It took me 2hours.i wish it only took 20 minutes. 1st issue was getting the 35 mm nut off . Then getting the hub out itself was a bitch

 

i dont have to worry about the abs sensor to much do i? and did you too the inner dust shield as well?

 

Don't have to disturb the ABS sensor at all.

I see you're in a salty area. The CV axle will take a few hard hits with a sledge to separate from the hub. To avoid mushrooming the threads, loosen the axle nut until it's flush with the end of the shaft, then hammer. On reassembly, liberally coat the CV shaft splines and bore of the knuckle with grease.

 

Did you do the inner dust shield

 

No. My old inner seal was in good condition. I just cleaned and greased the running surfaces where it contacted the rotating CV seal).

 

Here's my thoughts on the seals. According to my calculations, in 70K miles, that CV shaft has turned 44,117,647 revolutions in those seals. I'd say it's time to be replaced in order to protect the new bearing.

 

What kind of grease did ya use

 

When I had my front bearings replaced (with OEM) at 110,000 miles, I figured that the relatively minor additional cost of the (also OEM) seals was cheap insurance.

 

I just used NLGI Gr 2, same stuff I use in the driveshaft U-joints and SPC upper ball joints. Some new inner seals come pre-greased.

 

I used Lucas Red N’ Tacky. Because that’s what I had.
It says it is nlgi #2.

The type wasn’t really important. The important part is that you are “hopefully” preventing the axle splines from sticking to the hub. It also helps the axle slide back in the hub easier.

Basically you are making it easier to disassemble later. Plus lubed parts usually last a bit longer.

A lite coat on the splines is all you need.