Please friggin help :)

Picked up an 07 Tacoma DCLB 4X4 a couple weeks ago and was only able to drive it home and let it sit due to a somewhat shredded driver side cv boot (I knew about it being cracked and got the price down quite a bit, but after 200 miles of driving home, the boot is wide open and I haven't driven it since because I wanted to see what you have to say). I've poured over as many threads as I could, but was hoping to ask you all a couple questions.
Attached are a few pics, first is drivers side with the boot that's clearly torn. Second is passenger side. The two look like they're different brands and, unless I'm going crazy, which is possible after researching this and similar topics ad nauseam, appear to be at slightly different angles too? (According to the carfax, one axle was replaced in 9/2019...obviously it's gotta be the passenger side?)
Also it has Bilstein 5100's up front and what appears to be a air lift suspension in the rear (air lift in the center console doesn't appear to work...yes, I should've done more homework before I bought this thing, but I got a little excited when I drove it)...is this suspension causing enough of an angle on these cv axles to warrant a diff drop (WELL AWARE of how many of you are not in favor of this move, but I'm not going to be a hardcore wheeler, just using this seeeiiiick truck to get to cool trailheads and adventure spots...well, that and I'm getting rid of my 2014 Outback to be able to keep this truck and I travel a LOT for work, so it needs to be reliable)?? I absolutely cannot afford to replace axles every year, nor do I want to (Up until I picked this thing up, I could change the oil and maybe brakes on my car and ducati monster, but that's about it. Seems as though this 2.5"-3" range is where the cv axle angles get tricky?
OR, should I go with the moderate lifted axle from cvjreman and would that solve the issue? Anyone had any luck with the O'Reilly shocks peeps were talking about a few months ago?
Can anyone tell if the shredded driver side axle is oem? Looks like it to me, but can't really tell.
Anyone had any luck with the boot extension mod? It honestly seems like a pain in the a$$ to me, but if it works, I suppose it's certainly worth considering.
Sorry for so many stupid questions, I haven't had a Tacoma since my '95 20 years ago...I got super psyched when I drove this one, but it needs a little love and I need your help
Last pic is hopefully the old and the new (to me). I'll be doing these repairs myself with my father's help...while it'll take most of you an hour or so, it'll probably take me all day

 

The Drivers CV is OEM, passenger is aftermarket. Those angles don't look too bad, I would not be opting for a differential drop. They don't hardly improve the CV angle at all, it just rotates the front of the differential down, not actually lowering it.

I see if you have bilstein setup, if the angle is too much to bother you, I'd do one or both of the following:
lower the perch on the shocks
boot slide mod on the inner CV boots (after replacing the drivers boot of course.)

 

Thanks for the response. I know the angles aren't horrible, just trying to avoid replacement/reboot too often as this will be my daily driver with some fun mixed in there from time to time...as well as some affordable mods
Sooo, researched a shitload about replacing the axle and perhaps a reboot as well, but am a suspension noob...not ideal when having just purchased a lifted truck. Not sure how to lower 5100’s.
Do people really just regularly replace axles and/or boots on a daily driver?

 

I would fix the torn boot and have fun with your new truck.

Angles aren't that bad, mine is the same or worse and I went over 100k before one ripped.

 

New boot or cv and let ‘er rip. Not that bad of a job...with the right tools. I agree with angles being fine. I’d get the service manual downloaded/printed. Find a couple of YouTube vids and go to town. I replaced them on a couple of cars and I’m a total noob. Just be careful with not stripping bolts or over torquing. Also be aware that your local parts store may be able to loan you all the tools required for this job.

 

Any recommendations on a particular cv axle? Need to order parts today so they'll be ready to go by the time I get back home from a work trip

Also, anyone willing to part with an ecgs needle bearing removal tool for a reasonable price? Have some play in there and hoping that's what's causing a slight hum/vibration above 60mph. Just trying to save a few $$

 

I’d get oem for best quality. But if you don’t mind cheaper with the caveat that you may need to replace some day then you could check out partsgeek.com.

 

https://www.cvjreman.com/product-category/toyota-truck-axles/tacoma/for CV axles this is your best option for a oem reman with upgraded boots

 

I had a Lexus IS and the dealer wanted $600 for a cv axel. Got it for $60 at parts geek. I figured I’d have to replace it 10x before I’d loose $$. Held for the 2 years I owned the car.

 

Shoot, should've mentioned that I can't really afford oem. Some folks seem to like cvjreman.com? Any experience with them? Or have you always gone oem?

Edit: You guys are good...2 responses while I was typing this one lol

 

Put it in 4wd and take it up to 60. If the vibration is gone, it's the needle bearing. If it's not gone, could be a few different things; wheel bearing, tires worn/out of balance, or drive line vibes from the angles being out, or a ujoint or carrier bearing

 

@WormSquirts thank you I've only seen the truck twice in two weeks since I got it (it's at my parent's place where my dad and friends have more tools than I do), and I forgot to do the 4wd test yesterday (currently 400 miles away for a work gig) I did crawl under and there's quite a bit of play in the needle bearing...I'll probably just order that today too and hope it's just that and not a wheel bearing (for some reason a wheel bearing seems more intimidating to me than the needle )

 

You can buy the wheel bearing preassembled with the hub, in which case when you change the CV, you're already most of the way there. Just 4 bolts, plus the 35mm axle nut to re/re the wheel bearing assembly. Very easy.

Edit: I should add that if it is a wheel bearing, the hum or vibe should change or even go away while turning at certain angles.

 

Good point on the wheel bearing

https://www.cvjreman.com/product/9808r/

This looks like the only one from cvjreman I can afford Anyone run these?

 

CVJ are good, otherwise just check a use oem one from the junkyard. Or order a boot kit which is like $30 and reboot yours.

 

I guess if it's not clicking, I could reboot it? Was slightly cracked when I bought it, then after almost 300 miles to get home, it opened up as pictured and encountered snow and road sand along the way...just assumed I needed to replace

 

I put aftermarket cvs in the past, and they work fine with some wheeling.

 

Well, just pulled the trigger on cvjreman.com...thank you guys for your input and advice, it's much appreciated Now to sell some snowboards to pay for this lol

 

That was a wise decision since you have the 5100s. I replaced my boots and the shaft a few times with OEM and they didn’t last very long. I finally did the ones you got and they are going strong with no signs of going bad. The inner seals can be a pain getting right on the passenger side but the drivers side is easy. Good luck.

 

@Bluebaron7 thanks for the affirmation, I actually really do appreciated it as I’ve been slightly panicked at the money I’ve spent today (went with an ecgs bushing and removal tool as well)...for most, it’s a minimal expense, but I’m a lowly backcountry guide and this is big bucks for me lol.
When I do the passenger side (next paycheck, or 3), I might hit you up if I run into trouble