2019 OR DCLB Cement - s7726

Figured this would be a decent spot to collect some notes.

Currently working on a Switch Pros 9100 install as well as a Twin ARB compressor, using Rago mounts to build a wifey-style on board air setup.

A bunch of the wiring is way too long, except the main power wires for the switch pros and the arb, those seem to be the right length. So I'm working on getting the right pins and things to shorten some of the cables. I'm also trying to keep it a reasonably clean install, so not trying to just 'tap' off other circuits for things (except where that's totally what I'm doing...).

So I fully intend on add-a-fusing the fuses in the engine bay for the triggers and switch pro power, but I'm going to run them out of the fuse box into a 3pin DT connector so it could come apart if necessary.

The main thing that needs to be a lot shorter is the control cable for the switch pro panel. This is what I believe to be the pins.

0330122002‎ - Molex - CONN SOCKET 18-20AWG CRIMP TIN

So I'm going to get a few of those.

I also want to use the connector into the ARB for switching it on (the purple wire on the three pin connector). The ARB comes with a harness that has that connector populated with the black and purple wires only, so I'm planning on getting a cavity plug for where the black wire goes and then a pin for the 'purple' wire.

Plug part:
https://ecat.aptiv.com/product/12059168
Having trouble finding it in low quantity without insane shipping costs... Attempting local on FB, but we'll see. I may end up, at least for the time being crimping in a short piece of wire as a 'plug' for the ONE hole, uhg!

Pin part:
I was going to connect this directly to the switch pro wiring... Turns out you can't get a 14awg terminal for the metri-pack 150... So...
I ordered a mating set of the whole mp150 connector, and I'm going to repin the switchpros connector to a 16awg wire (I'll have extras of those pins from the control cable pins I ordered, yay same pins!)

I also need some ring terminals for the ARB power wires.
I have the SDHQ battery terminals so connecting aux stuff is not terrible.
1 ring with a 1/4" hole to connect two 10awg wires, and one with a 1/4" hole to connect one 8awg wire.

pos:
0192210227‎ - Molex - CONN RING FLAT 6AWG #1/4 CRIMP

neg:
0192210224‎ - Molex - CONN RING FLAT 8AWG #1/4 CRIMP


Obligatory "before" picture... I'm typically bad about remembering the before, but let's be honest we all know what the engine bay of a stock 3rd gen looks like.

 

So I got my wifeyair style kit all installed and took a few pics. All this happened a couple of weeks ago, but work came up...

Ran the switch pro controller through the grommet location in the firewall, it fits perfectly in the medium(?) sized weather gromet things I have from a multi-pack... I can grab a dimension if anyone cares.


Left with a TON of extra wire, I lopped off the end and started crimping new terminals on.


My little setup, you can see how much I cut off on the left.


And the finished product. I wanted to leave enough that I could connect everything (compressor, SP, etc.) then put the mount with the equipment in, and vice versa.


Routed the wires that go into the fuse box through here, it's a couple little tabs to pop it out, then you peel some tape back and there's a pretty good opening to slide the wires through.
I put them through, routed them to their locations, put on the fuse taps, and then cut them all the same length outside the box and added a 3 position DT connector so I can pull it without disturbing the fuse box setup.


Routing and fuse connections (the fuse names are awkward). Can also see the DT in this one.


Various connectors for the one (I swear I'll add more later) device (arb twin) I currently have hooked up.
I replaced the terminal for the #4 switch (red wire) on the main switch pro harness so I could use a lower gauge wire, I ended up using a cutoff of the white wire (since it was the nicest wire I had on hand) and added some red shrink tube to highlight that it wasn't the same wire. Used the one cavity seal that came with the 3pin on the arb connector, and then made a cavity seal with a short piece of wire and some shrink tube, couldn't find them in reasonably low quantities.


This is how I 'capped' all the extra wires on the switch pro for now. Every wire has a its own piece of shrink tube, that it then bent back over itself, then I a little shrink ring to keep it bent back, then they are bundled into a larger piece of adhesive lined shrink... It's probably excessive but should keep everything nice for when I go to use them. I thought about putting DTs on all of them, but I didn't have enough cavity seals for that many.


I wanted a nice place to ground everything to so I added a bus bar to the top of the mounting plate, the screws are countersunk to sit just shy of flush and the nylocks are effectively captive. Not currently hooked up, but adding it now means I don't have to tear apart everything to put it in later.


I printed some quick bushings for the rago air mounts. Not necessary, but it was nice that they stayed centered while I tightened everything.


Better view of where the bus bar ended up.
Kind of wishing I had snake skinned the larger SP bundle. A project for another day.


Everything (almost) installed...


I added a shrader to the top of the slide valve. It needed something to plug that end, and I figure this way I can still use the plumbing to all four corners if the compressor fails... It sounded like a better idea than just a plug. I went with a 60psi gauge (and yes it's huge) because most things I fill are going to be ~30 psi or less. We'll see how it goes long term.
I also mounted the main valve so that vibration would tend in the closed direction. I liked that I could solidly mount this manifold without using the air fittings as a structural member. It did make an order of operations nightmare though. Also, non, the nylocks are not fully engaged and I need to get in there with some locktight or something.


One whole switch!!! Still wish meso would make a cubby plate that the fancy switch pro trim ring thing would fit on, I really liked the idea of positive registration and I think it would cover me having put the sticker on slightly off center...


What do people do with leftover parts?


This is my little setup for the assembly of the eight jumper line ends. made it nice and quick. EDIT: See next post, this may not have been a great idea.
I used bright orange hose for the jumper whips (no picture). And I ended up making them 4'3" if anyone is wondering, that fit all four tire locations with comfortable wiggle room for future tire size upgrades etc.


Made a fancy lanyard for the ARB pacifier, that thing SHOOTS out if you're not paying attention .


Wife got me this for V-Day, I think I'm pretty well set for tire related things.


Still need to make up a bag or something for the jumper whips and random other air pieces. But I think I'm pretty happy with it.

I ended up using ALL 10m of the black 3/8 hose I ordered for the four corner routing. So if you're worried about it, maybe order 11m
Hose routes to both fronts, and runs full-length front to back down either side. Don't ask me why I preferred this over only running one length front to back and then jumping across the back, yes it would have saved some hose. Something inside me said do it this way instead... maybe it will bight me in the ass, maybe it will save me, maybe it doesn't make any difference. Time may not even ever tell...

Let me know if you have questions, or want pictures of any of the details.

 

I used a wrench in a vice as shown in the last post to assemble all the whip ends.
I also relied on the teflon tape (? coating?) that was on the male fittings already instead of using the blue goop.

This appears to have resulted in both making them too tight, and having at least one of them leak...

I crushed the cheap male hose fitting.


The back hose-end ripped off trying to get it with a set of vise grips.


Attempting to use the 6mm allen on the inside resulted in a smooth hole


And an extractor bit just ended up expanding the whole fitting such that it no longer was 19mm


So I completely kludged up the ~$12 chuck. Don't be like me...

Ordered a new chuck (a couple of them for spare) and I'm going to re-assemble the failed one with one of the better all-metal hose to 1/4npt fittings I have, the goop, and not make them as tight. Wish me luck.

 

Got a chance to try out a full (half?) down-up cycle today.

Down one whip I just did front and rear pairs. using the dump valve on the manifold it took 1.5min to get from 30 to 20psi.

I was lazy and didn't time the up, but it was probably about half that.

I learned that you should pull over further from the main road to air up so that everyone (nice people all of them) doesn't stop and ask if you're ok, with the hood up...

We'll see when I get the other whip fixed how much time it takes on either end, my guess is it should stay about the same.
But not sure if the dump valve or the individual valve stems are the limiter.