sound deadening my 2016 tacoma with Sound Deadener Showdown

After reading through 1700+ posts on diymobileaudio on the best sound deadening available for the money I decided to go with Sound Deadener Showdown.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...isons/146403-sound-deadening-cld-testing.html
I contacted Don at sound deadening showdown to schedule appointment to come to his shop. Don met me at his shop and assisted me installing his product. Don was awesome to work with, very friendly, professional and knowledgable on the products he sells. Hazel his assistant was there to capture our progress on video.
I wanted to post video for you guys so you can see how easy the install is.
It was a pretty simple (DIY) install, although applying the MLV is a little time consuming to get the fit just right, but it is time well spent.
The video for the install is below.

https://vimeo.com/167623072

Let me know what you guys think or if you have any questions.

 

So you did all of that and put the stock speakers back in? The CLD tiles, why are they just randomly placed instead of covering the whole door? Confused about this whole thing

 

Jason 25% coverage (click details), strategically-placed (not randomly), is adequate using CLD tiles. And FWIW, they work best when they're not cut down.

 

I am doing my stereo install in baby steps. I have a daughter in college and another in competitive cheerleading, priority is not stereo upgrade.

In order to get proper coverage in the 2016 tacoma doors i found that i had to cut the tiles to get them in the tight places

 

Yeah, I had to cut 'em too in my 1st gen, but that last set of tests TS2F did is compelling. I'll never do it again if it isn't necessary.

 

This is Don from SDS. I always prefer to use CLD Tiles™ whole, but if they don't fit or the area to be treated is less than 1 2/3 ft², they are still very effective in smaller pieces. The outer door skin had most tiles in one piece. The trim panel had nothing but smaller pieces and they made a big difference. I do think there is something to smaller pieces being less effective, but also think the testing referenced may say as much about the location of the vibration modes on the test substrate as anything else. Hope that helps.

 

That's very good to know as I wound up doing lots of cutting myself. They've made a major difference in my truck in smaller pieces.

 

The 2016 doors are interesting in a few ways. They are the traditional trim panel clipped to inner skin with access holes construction. Flexible access hole covers clip into place. It was not only possible to reuse the stock vapor barrier, the patches of shoddy you can see meant that we really didn't need CCF on the side of the MLV facing the inner skin since the shoddy is a perfectly good decoupler. Very nice doors to work on. One small patch of factory vibration damper on each door.

 

Don, since you're on the phone, I was wondering if you might offer an opinion. I used your butyl rope to hold a slice of MLV to the underside of my rear hatch covers. I keep tools and whatnot in there and wanted to try & create a noise barrier between the cabin and hatch.





I was also thinking that it may work somewhat as a damper for the panel with the MLV acting as something of a constraining layer. Is this a bridge too far? Is the butyl merely an adhesive in this context or would you think the application of these together would work as a damper as well? This is from a 1st gen, but I believe we all have these storage hatches in some form.

 

The first thing I did when I saw this post was use some EBR to adhere a piece of MLV to wood and set it in the sun for the day - I'd never used EBR as an adhesive for MLV. It worked better than I expected. Still not crazy about the idea. Butyl behaves like a very viscous fluid when hot. This isn't an issue when it's carrying relatively light aluminum or is physically trapped in placed. Inverted, with 1 lb/ft² MLV pulling on it, I still expect the MLV to gradually pull away from the wood.

There are a few things working against the vibration damping idea. The first is that particle board doesn't have a lot of resonance to start with. Second is that constrained layer dampers aren't very effective on thick substrates - wood, drywall, etc. Finally, unless you evenly distributed the adhesive over the surface, you're only creating a vibration damper where there is EBR.

I'd prefer to put a layer of CCF between the wood and MLV, using something like 3M Super 90 between the wood and CCF and HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement between the CCF and MLV. Still, if the EBR stays stable between the wood and MLV, it should be a pretty effective barrier. I'll be very interested to hear how your treatment holds up over time.

 

Thanks for the note Don. You confirmed my suspicions on coverage. Never considered heat though nor the lack of resonance with particle board. I checked on the panels yesterday & they are still where I put them & don't seem to have migrated any. To be fair though I live where it typically doesn't get too warm, but Summers can see 100+ degrees and 90s for a few days in a row isn't out of the question. I'll update as we wrap up Summer to see how they held. Or if they fall off sooner.

 

I thought I'd update as it appears we're through the hotter parts of Summer & headed into the monsoons. We had a number of triple digit days and stayed in the 90s for highs through most of July. I've been parking outside for the last couple months & the truck has been exposed to quite a few heat/cool cycles. As a reminder I put this stuff in back when it was still cold, so this is through the better part of a Colorado Front Range Summer. There will certainly be more demanding environments, but here's how it looks after a few months.

The big piece on the passenger side. Best I can tell there has been no change.



The smaller hatch from the driver's side. There's a little butyl oozing from the edge here. I could see some of it before but I don't think those 2 little dollops were there. That's the only place though on either panel and I'm thinking it's because I stuck it too close to the edge. That's also where I grab it to pull it off, so there's that.



I just left it to see how it migrates or falls over time if it does.

The truck has been driven quite a bit since I did this both on and off road. Our roads around here are pretty ragged out so I'd say it passes the driving portion. At this point I'd do it again without hesitation - at least where I live. I'm not sure how it would hold up on something like a roof, but the factory particle board panels hold it nicely. I'd like to see how this holds up somewhere like Texas or Florida where it'll be subjected to higher average temperatures. Maybe somebody in the hotter states will give it a go?

Edit, now that I look again at that large piece, it seems much smoother than when I first put it on - which would suggest that the butyl has migrated out a bit with heat and time. When I get a chance, I'll try and get that picture at a similar angle and lighting to see if that's what I'm really seeing.

 

I used SDS last summer AND I LOVE IT!!! I Just told Don i had a double cab taco and that i watned to do the doors and rear wall. He had the specific dimensions and knew how much material i would need. it was almost 100% dead on so no wasted material or $$. I was a little confused on how to do it all, but once i got the kit it all kinda made sense. it takes a while to cut everything out properly to make sure the door panels fit properly again, but not a big deal at all. i love knocking on my doors and hearing a flat THUD, then knocking on someone else's doors and hearing the normal echo. Did it make a huge improvement in sound quality? not sure. i installed it with my 2500 stereo, so no real before/after comparison. My cab is for sure quieter tho, less road noise.

it's for sure the best way to sound deaden, and putting come cld tiles in your roof will stop rain drops from being so annoying too.

 

Great topic as I've been struggling with what to do about the large volumes of road noise in my new 2016 DC TRD OR. I usually crank up the stereo (up to 32 volume) to drown out the road noise and when I get home my ears are just exhausted! I just finished testing my road noise with a dB app (calibrated): Idle (75 - 77 dB), 25 mph on gravel road (97 - 100 dB) and 65 mph on pavement (97 - 100 dB). My wife's new 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee is quieter and the road noise is alot less...usually 4 dB less at the same speeds and conditions. Her car reminds me of my Buick Rainier...real quiet.
So I'm looking for a solution to reduce road noise in the door panels, rear wall and floor areas and would also like to find something for the hood, firewall and muffler areas. I'm retired and not looking to upgrade my sound system, just knock down the road noise.
Maybe someone that has worked on their Tacoma and Don at SDS can answer this lengthy question. Thanks,

Bill

 

Was CCF applied to the whole MLV sheet or was it used in smaller spots? Can’t tell