Long Travel BS Thread

Yup, rear glass is already on and shell is going back on too. @81Trekker is building me some very fancy bed rail brackets - imagine full length L brackets that also match the contour of the bedsides. Then we are going to bond the shell to those L brackets. So the shell will be 100% supported off of the glass. I am also going to custom shape w/ foam & glass to the bottom edge of the shell to blend so the shell will look as though it was made to match the bedsides.

 

You got the silver vein PC didn't you???

 

Yeah it’s what I already had on my front kit, rear links & bedcage so I wanted to keep it all matchy matchy for mall points

 

I'm trying to figure out what color to PC mine and Harry suggested the silver vein so I'm interested to see how it turns out. I want something a little more showy/different than others out there.

 

I've really liked how the prismatic grey/black vein turned out on my wheel well panels. weird that they call it grey/black when its more white/light grey.

 

There are quite a few different vein combos and they also differ from pc brand to brand.

 

More progress pics of my +4 kit from @81Trekker at JD Fab :

In this pic you can see the new bypass hoops, new double shear kit, LCA tab kit and as an added touch they are grinding off the OE Dana chassis welds in a couple of spots and correcting them. In addition to chopping off the low hanging front bumper cross member he is strengthening the entire front of the frame to properly support winching. First step was to plate the front crumple zone :



Here you can see that the whole lower portion of the CBI bumper has been chopped off to match the front frame chop. It will be re plated to match and integrate with the new skid plate that ties into the JD Fab LCA tab kit :



Here you can see the strengthening plate, next the OE bumper mounts will be chopped off and a new front crossmember will be installed so that the bumper will have double the mounting points as the OE set up and all with grade 8 hardware. You can also see where he has strengthened the core support mount :

 

Looks to be all quality. Kudos to them for going the extra mile to design these parts, and the execution is looking great on your truck!

 

Rear bumper being widened to match the glass bedsides :




Front bumper with the "chin" cut off for higher ground clearance and will be tied into a skid that mates with the JD Fab LCA tab kit :



Last step with the front bumper will be to widen it to match the width of the +6 glass :

 

What do you non-beadlock guys run for pressures out in the desert? I'm running a 295 and was curious what I could get away with without de-beading and possibly hurting a wheel.

 

Sand 10-12psi, crawling 10-12psi, higher speed deserty stuff 12-18psi depending on expectation of certain size rocks

 

This is exactly what I do too for comfort and traction. I think the tire specs and vehicle specs make a difference too.

 

Yeah circumstances and vehicle will make this vary some, but it’s a good general rule of thumb or starting point

 

Yep desert always about 18psi

 

JD fab is a bit of a trek for me, but I could definitely see sending a vehicle there to get done right.

 

Same here, except the crawling part

Never had an issue with 285/70/17 on 8.5” wheels.

 

Ready to measure for steering pickups. @snowsk8air2 I think you had the technique for eliminating bump steer?

 

It wasn’t my technique and I can’t seem to find the article anymore. But if I recall it was something like this.

With the upper and lower arms bolted up and alignment set to proper castor, camber and toe, you measure the arc where the outer pivot of both control arms follow and where they intersect is the location on the spindle where the tie rod should mount.

I think it was something like that but I’d do a little searching yourself before going with that

 

I'll have to go looking. I recall it was full bump and full droop arcs of the steering tie-rod based on correct alignment at ride height.

 

You need to tac a steering arm to the spindle with multiple holes for adjustment and start cycling the suspension out to find the sweet spot