Elec. help on light bar wiring on a 2020, Rigid light harness - Done

I am wiring a Rigid 10" light bar. I plan on using a jumper (pic. of the jumper cable is using wrong fuse size, I need to by low profile mini fuse jumper, will pick one up) to power the bar from the fuse panel, but which fuse do you guys suggest to use? The bar is set up with a 15A ATO fuse and the truck uses low-profile mini fuses. I thought about using the 15A fog light fuse but was thinking it might be too much of a draw, plus I may change the oem fogs out later to Baha's.
Do I keep both fuses (15A jumper fuse and wiring harness 15A fuse) or cut-out harness fuse?

 

so you are trying to use a add a fuse to power a light bar? is this correct? or a DRL amber feature that the lightbar has?

 

Your question is not entirely clear. However (assuming several things), I recommend to keep the same size amp rating as the light bar recommends.

 

This is just a 10" auxiliary light to be used when I need it. Its not a DLR. I plan on keeping the bar on a 15A fuse. I want to wire it so when the truck is off it can't be used (no drain on battery).
1. Which is the best fuse in the panel to piggyback off of?
2. When I set the jumper up, there will be three fuses - one going to the original accessory that I am taping into and two on the light bar hot line. Should I remove the factory light bar harness fuse and just have the 15A fuse on the jumper or keep both?

Does that help?

 

why not just run a relay, and switch into the cab of the truck? depending on the brand and output If I were you, I would just make a anytime fog light mod, get some decent fog lights, bajas,DD, etc and use that instead of messing with your relays, fuse box etc.

 

There is a relay with the harness and an inline fuse.
I don't want to hook direct to battery as the on/off switch will always be lit. I don't know where else to hook the power lead.
Is there a place on the interior fuse box I can get power from without it being hot all the time?

 

what kind of switch are you running?

 

You are looking for an “accessory” wire. That would power the lamp on the switch and the on (coil power) to the relay. The power for the light bar would come from the battery (or where ever you take it from).

 

Switch and Rigid harness

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...res-cali-raised-air-on-board-switches.617047/

here.

 

I will try that.
Are most guys going direct from the batt. on auxiliary lights?

 

You guys rang??

When the switch is hooked up correctly, it should:

Day-time:
Have no illumination when dash lights are off.

When switch is turned on - the led light bar ICON will illuminate.

Night-time:
With the dash lights ON, the TEXT will illuminate - in this case "Led Light Bar".

When switched on, BOTH the ICON and TEXT will illuminate.

You can run directly from the battery if you want, trade off is that the lights will always be powered, so if you forget to turn them off, they'll stay on even when the truck is off.

If you wire into an accessory circuit, the lights will turn off eventually when the accessories circuit loses power from the auto-shutoff feature.

If you wire into the headlights circuit, the light bar will only have power when the headlights have power.

If you wire into the hi-beam circuit, the light bar will only have power when the hi-beams have power.

Con: when powered by headlights and you switch to hi-beam, the light bar will turn off, and vice-versa.

 

Got the light hooked up and running.
I did want the light would only come on when the ignition is on, but for now its run through the engine compartment fuse box. If I want to do it with ignition on, then I would have to run the pos/neg harness through the firewall and its a tight fit with just the switch harness going through. I could strip cover off of the Rigid harness to separate the ground and positive leads and run just pos. through, but I am save that for another day.

Hope this helps someone.
Thanks BlackBeerd for your help.

They are a very diffused light. Almost like a flood light. If you are going down tight trails then these would work great for you. If you want driving or spot then don't use them.



BlackBeerd helped me with open fuse slot.

Ran through boot next to hood release


Wire on inside.









The second red wire goes to a low amp fuse to light the switch when the ignition is on. I just use a little 3 or 5 amp fuse.


This shows a 15 amp fuse. This was an attempt to power the lights from the red lead in the switch harness. I didn't think it would work and it did not. You just nee a little 3 amp for the switch light, maybe even less


The problem with piggybacking on interior fuse box is that the cover does not allow for it unless you cut a hole in it. I went on line and ordered a ME-SO

 

Glad you got it figured out